PDA

View Full Version : Installing a new VW engine



jim73vw
24-04-2008, 10:20 AM
Hi all,

As you will have seen in the 'Your cars' section I have decided ot fit a new 1641 to Nena.

I have mostly new ancilleries, and those parts which are not new will be replaced (oil cooler & fuel pump).

Obviously the key is working cleanly and methodically, building up the new block.

Once I have the complete engine ready to go are there any special procedures I should follow - ie turning over by hand first to distribure oil ?

Anyone done a new VW lump in recent times

Any hints and tips, as always, gratefully received !

Big Birds Car
24-04-2008, 11:12 AM
Can't help specifically with aircooled's but whenever I have done a build, apart from coating everything with lube on assembly, when installed I tend to wind the oil pump over with a drill (if accessible) untill I get oil at the top end of the engine. On inlines I tend to add a little oil to the bores, disconnect the fuel supply and turn over on the starter with the plugs removed until sufficient oil has reached the top of the engine and often the pressure light has gone out. Then fit the plugs and fuel and start without reving too hard. It's then a case of running in at different rev ranges (don't keep to one rev range, vary this so for instance don't go above 2000rpm before changing gears etc. but on a motorway don't just sit at one rev range drop it down for a while and then increase and drop down again, only has to be 500 rpm or so at a time). After 500 miles I tend to change the oil and filter and then start to increase the revs in gears until I'm happy with the way it feels (this is just my way and to date has served me well, others will do it differently with similar results I'm sure).

Having said the above I would have thought that the engine supplier would have their own recommended way of doing things and you would need to stick to that for your warranty to be valid.

Whatever you do don't just dump it in fit it up and rev the nuts out of it because it wouldn't start first time or feels that it is choking up and needs "cleaning out".

Good luck for Stoneliegh.

jim73vw
24-04-2008, 04:08 PM
Cheers for the tips.

Engine just arrived from VW Heritage with a very comprehensive 9 page guide !

Also very well packed in it's own wooden crate. 009 distributor has been prefitted and the engine hot tested for 30 mins, and camshaft bedded in etc

Hoping this gives me a good basis to work from, decided on a new fuel pump as well which I managed to get added to the order last minute - so all systems go !

Sarah is out tonight so I have a night of music (just fitted new Zone server to my http://www.sonos.com/products/zoneplayers/ system for the garage), pizza and engine oil ahead of me !

Not going to rush, need to clean up the old tinwear and lay everything out neatly first - more soon !

jim73vw
24-04-2008, 09:29 PM
Called it a night (it's 9.25pm)

Made a lot of progress - unpacked the new lump from it's crate and got it on my engine trolley. Transferred over clutch assembly and old oil cooler bracket. Fitted new oil cooler, fuel pump and carb manifold. Repainted exhaust and header, and touched up tunware here and there. Refitted cylinder head tinware and fan shroud. Got alternator clamp in place and carb manifold supporting bracket.

Carb is only resting in place in picture, but seems to clear everything. (I know I will most likely need to modify engine lid)

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2164/2438791953_10957ea2ff_b.jpg

Will resume tomorrow when exhaust paint should have hardened and I will be a bit fresher !

bobbybrown
24-04-2008, 09:31 PM
Looking good Jim, looking forward to seeing it in the car :)

CyCo
25-04-2008, 02:49 AM
Nice clean looking donk. Hope the rest of the install is as clean.

:D

adrenaline
25-04-2008, 09:35 AM
...a nice clean shiny vw lump does look so right.....hope the install goes ok.....

when it's in, disconnect the coil so you can turn the engine over on the starter until the oil pressure light goes out...this will ensure that the oil is well circulated around the engine....use mineral oil rather than synthetic and drop the oil after 30 mins running or so and replace with the good stuff....

jim73vw
27-04-2008, 11:01 AM
Well Friday night was nothing more than a workshop tidy up and reading !

Saturday was spent getting the rest of the ancilleries bolted up and then refitting the engine. Should have relalised you cannot get the engine in with the Weber 32/36 carb fitted :oops2: So that came off, engine in, and then carb back on.

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2005/2444616935_1f08432b1d_b.jpg

New fuel pump, dizzy, carb and block - would it start?

Primed everything, turned over by hand, and then on the starter with ht lead disconnected. Removed air cleaner and result - fuel definately getting through !

The reconnected HT turned over a few times (have fitted new starter bush and starter) strongly, and soon the roar of a flat 4 was heard. :groupwave:

Spent quite some time fiddling with the linkage on the 32/36 carb and still not 100% happy as on full throttle I am still struggling to fully open second flap - having googled this on volkszone and others seems a common problem on type 1 engines with this carb - not sure if it is a problem yet?!

Once I had run the block for long enough to be fairly happy, and done some basic carb tweaks, and reassured myself that there were no leaks I reattached bumper, and modified engine lid.

Video will follow once You Tube catches uP !

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2200/2444616297_fbea1036f5_b.jpg

Road testing today !

jim73vw
27-04-2008, 02:01 PM
Video here



http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=NQIhO4Xz91k

jim73vw
27-04-2008, 06:46 PM
First road test this afternoon. Engine certainly quiter than older unit, and already feels smoother under foot, despit ethe carb certainly needing adjustment.

Took things nice and steady, and came back after a 20min run to check everything was tiht and oil free - still looking clean and tidy !

Some concerns on carb linkage - sticking at times, so when changing down through the gears throttle races away a little. Return spring is in place, I think I may have overtightened the throttle arm bracket ??

Anyone a guru on carb adjustment? Its a Empi Weber 32/36

More soon, and another test run tomorrow !

MicksRedNova
27-04-2008, 10:30 PM
Well done

It looks and sounds really good.

Mick

letterman7
28-04-2008, 02:52 AM
Some concerns on carb linkage - sticking at times, so when changing down through the gears throttle races away a little. Return spring is in place, I think I may have overtightened the throttle arm bracket ??


Congratulations on the new motor, Jim! Try backing off the bracket nut a hair and see if it doesn't loosen up the play a little. Have someone sit in the cockpit - engine off - and push the throttle. Stand at the engine with the air cleaner off and look for obvious signs of interference and work from there. Keep us posted!

jimcub
28-04-2008, 09:19 PM
I have heard about the return springs not beefy enough, I had to fit doubles on my old carb, also have done it on my twin carb set up.

jim73vw
28-04-2008, 10:30 PM
Cheers both,

Backing off the throttle arm nut a touch did help, but then highlighted that the throttle cable was too slack.

Having fun adjusting that now, as if I fit it to the point recomended in the very poor Empi instructions the end bracket fouls the cam - a picture would explain better !

I have heard of people modifying these carb linkages as they are not perfect. I think I have a couple of ideas, and the return spring cerainly needs improving.

More soon I hope,

Jim

Spacenut
29-04-2008, 08:18 AM
Hi Jim - its lookin' real good from here. I don't think the carb needs tuning specifically, and the DCD series will only have idle mixture and/or idle air bypass correction available for adjustment anyway. The engine runs most of the time on the single 32mm choke; the 36mm choke comes in progressively as the throttle moves into the last third of travel. On DCDs the connection between the two butterflies is mechanical, like the Weber 32 DIR I had on my old Alfa engine but there are other systems (my old Nikki carb had a vacuum-operated secondary choke).

Sounds like the slack cable was responsible for not getting the full movement from the linkage. As the others have said, with such a long cable run to the carb (and the "interesting" linkage from the throttle pedal, designed for LHD cars), additional or higher rated return springs are a necessity. One other thing to check for is binding of the pedal mechanism under the carpet on the LH passenger side of the tunnel. There is a little plastic cover over the lever to stop it fouling on the carpet, but is often mislaid and/or damaged. Obviously the mechanism should be well lubricated and free of binding, and this includes the little roller under the pedal and the floor-mounted hinge.

I've had to use double return springs on my linkage, and I have a hydraulic throttle, so you're not alone :D

Lauren

jim73vw
29-04-2008, 08:29 AM
Cheers lauren,

Always reassuring to get similar feedback from a few different sources.

To complicate more I am not using the stock VW pedals.

I have an aftermarket pedal box using a 'universal' throttle cable that worms its way around the bulkhead, down the tunnel and ultimately gets there !

I think two return springs is definately the next test. As far as I can see re the tuning it is a case of usng the idle adjustment screw to get a stable stickover when warm, and then turn attention to the idle enrichment screw (handily at the back) adjusting this till close to stalling, and then backing out a 1/4 turn to ensure mixture not to rich?

I am sure I will get there - just not always the easiest process on a new engine as sticking throttles and over revving need to be avoided !

Another marathoin stint planned tonight (carb settings, final carpet, stereo etc etc)

Soon the Darwin principle will take over and my back will stay arched to the ideal angle to get under the dash and work on the engine. My arms and fingers will also probably extend to assist in removing the bumpers etc !

See you all, I hope At Stoneleigh !

Alzax3
29-04-2008, 08:55 AM
I haven't yet found a sensible way of working under the dash that doesn't invove taking the steering wheel off (too many small bolts!) I can worm in underneath it, but then it's a hassle worming my way out again - I'm sure the health and safety chimps would put loads in their risk assessment about that practice! (And after having wormed my way in - it's rarely possible to move my arms to do anything useful anyway :annoyed: ........)

jimcub
29-04-2008, 09:19 AM
I find being upside down ok for a short while, but getting out is very difficult though maybe a remote winch would be better.

bushboy
29-04-2008, 04:05 PM
And no sooner do you wrigle in, get comfy and heard from the house.......dinners' ready :rofl:

Jim I shall call you Mr progress

bushboy

jim73vw
29-04-2008, 05:01 PM
Mr Progress !

Do I get my own Mr Men book, and what colour would Mr Progress be??

I like it ! :rofl:

CyCo
30-04-2008, 03:34 AM
Mr Progress !

Do I get my own Mr Men book, and what colour would Mr Progress be??

I like it ! :rofl:

lol!!!

I'm guessing a pale blue/grey, like the Nova.

:D

bobbybrown
30-04-2008, 09:51 AM
:laugh: I've had some fun with that, let see if you notice :whistling:

vpogv
30-04-2008, 02:14 PM
All dependent on the seat setup it might be easier to pull the driver's seat out to get comfy access to under the dash. But if you have those fancy seats might be tougher. :)

jimcub
30-04-2008, 07:38 PM
I tried to make seat removal easier by using 1/2" bolts and wing nuts, but for a small tasks I squirm.

jim73vw
01-05-2008, 04:43 PM
I like it - My own title on the forum - cheers !!

bobbybrown
01-05-2008, 04:54 PM
:thumbup:

CyCo
02-05-2008, 08:32 AM
Heh, I went looking for a blue/grey emoticon. lol

jim73vw
14-05-2008, 02:13 PM
And here is how the engine swap went in pictures !

If only it was that quick in real life !

http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=86QJzjNVJ8Y