View Full Version : Clutch Lever Travel

23-09-2008, 11:55 PM
Well some times it seams like two steps forward three steps back.

Despite haveing driven the reek round the block once & in & out the shed on numerous occasions I have found another issue.

Started the engine, depressed the clutch & couldn't get it into gear. Just the sound of grinding teeth. Pumped the pedal & it felt alright so tried again. This time it went in. Moved forward to allow access to the back end and parked it up. All was not rosey as there was a puddle on the floor. Closer inspection revealed clutch fluid. BUM. Carried on with fabricating the rear flopper stopper (another story for another thread). Time to put it away & the same issue.

Finally got around to putting the missus in the driver seat to operate the clutch pedal so I could see what was going on. Sure enough fluid pi$$ing out of the end of the slave cylinder.

So my dillema, if you have managed to read this far. I believe (hope) that the cylinder has enough travel before cup starts to leak (end of travel) to disengage the clutch. I think I have run out of adjustment on the pushrod and plan to fabricate another. But before I do.. Does anyone know how far the clutch lever travels on a std cable set up?? ie how far in linear measurements does the cable travel? Failing that I could measure the degrees of rotation if that info is available.

To refresh your memory. I have a V6 on the std VW tranny with a Jaguar slave cylinder operating the clutch lever.


Armed with this info I can test the travel & determine if the jag cylinder is up to the job. I have priced a pull type cylinder from Wilwood and thay only have 35mm (1.38inch) of travel.

24-09-2008, 12:21 AM
If you're still running a standard VW clutch pack, the total travel should be anywhere between 1" and 1.5". Clutch disengagement usually happens around .75", at least on my buggy!

24-09-2008, 07:20 AM
The thrust bearing needs to be completely unloaded with the clutch out or you will get premature bearing failure as it will be spinning around all the time. So the dimension will be from unloaded bearing condition to the point where drive is disconnected, whatever that may be.

Are you using the VW clutch BB? I guess that would mean VW flywheel and starter as well, no mean feat to adapt to the Ford/Mazda powerplant. It sounds like maybe you are using too much of the slave cylinder travel and the seals are either damaged or leaking at those extremes.

If you don't have enough travel on the slave cylinder, you could fabricate a shorter lever - its clamped around a splined shaft from what I remember? Might increase the pedal effort a bit, but my guess is that you have fairly light controls anyway.

In a similar situation I would consider using a hydraulic thrust bearing - Tilton and AP Racing do these, amongst others. The advantage is the expanding sleeve acts directly on the clutch spring plate, so you can get rid of a ton of levers and bellcranks and stuff, and also its a push action, which hydraulics are a lot happier doing than pulling. Means an engine out job though :(

Good luck!


26-09-2008, 08:33 PM
Thanks for the info fellow nuts.
I hope to tackle this issue on Saturday night (unless she drags me to a soul music night :puking: )

The travel info is what I was after letterman. Lauren, I am conscious that the thrust bearing needs to clear the diaphram. The clutch plate is a std VW while the pressure plate is a KEP stage 1. The fly wheel is a bespoke KEP item that they supply with the adapter plate. Ben was the clever one with the Rover V6 install as he made both the adapter plate & fly wheel.

I'll keep you posted.


ps KEP = Kennedy Engineered Products

26-09-2008, 08:48 PM
Thanks for the clarification BB - it never ceases to amaze me how much trick stuff is available for the VW Beetle... Good luck sorting it (or doing a soft shoe shuffle, whichever is most likely :D)


26-09-2008, 08:52 PM
I read in a magazine a few months ago that the VW engine is arguably the most modified engine in the world!!

And it is easier to list the engines that have not been bolted the the tranny!!


28-09-2008, 04:15 PM
Yo Bushboy.
I have a Wilwood type slave and a Kennedy 1700 pressure plate with a comp, disc and late type standard thrust bearing and it clears nicley at about 3/4" movment with a 3/4"" front master from Land Rover series 2/2a clutch.
The idea of a hydraulic thrust bearing would be a really good one for your setup though if not a bit pricey. This is a Tilton one for Posche


28-09-2008, 07:31 PM
Welcome back pete, Its been a while. Glad to read you are almost mobile again. I have been contemplating the wilwood type slave cylinder your eagle is sporting. Finances wont allow any additional spending so I've spent this afternoon stripping out the cylinder & making a different pushrod set up as the other had reached the end of it's adjustment, and when first installed didn't leak. I have measured the available travel of the cylinder & it has at least 30mm of travel before the cup would start to seep fluid. I got as far as bleeding the cylinder before I was called in to do bedtime story time for my daughter. So I'll finish it off tomorrow as I still have to re assemble the airbox & airmeter.


07-11-2008, 08:44 AM
Hi bushboy,

I went the hydraulic clutch route also and it wasn't big bucks.

I very much followed Peter's lead

Saco bracket

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/VW-TYPE-1-3-TRANSMISSION-HYDRAULIC-CLUTCH-SLAVE-BRACKET_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp1742Q2em153Q2el 1262QQcategoryZ6755QQihZ005QQitemZ150204433075QQtc Zphoto

They shipped in a couple of days - very efficient

I got my cyclinder from bernard Newbury's store (VW upholsterer and race parts dealer) - he isn't showing them at present on the site, but from memory @50 - may be worth a call.



but expensive for what it is if you don't need all the parts,

10-11-2008, 11:07 AM
The South West Speed slave is still posted at $49, 31.00, so a lot cheaper even allowing for shipping

I think between Pimppride, 53ragtop and VW speed shop they just about cleaned out my 2006 salary :sorry: misses