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bobbybrown
14-05-2009, 11:35 PM
Terry,
See images below.

Auto tensioner head:
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c319/djmrdg/autotensioner.jpg


Manual tensioner head with tensioner in place:
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c319/djmrdg/manualtensioner.jpg

Big Birds Car
15-05-2009, 08:24 AM
If you are trying to distinguish between an auto tensioner and a manual one the following maybe of use.
Two types of tensioner exist, the manual one used on all engines to late 1998 and all VVC engines, and the autotensioner that arrived late 1998 for all non VVC engines. They have different bolting arrangements with the manual one using an Allen headed bolt for main securing and a small 8mm headed additional locking bolt on the bracket. The auto tensioner has a double 10mm normal hex headed bolt fixing.

Got this when I was doing the wifes MGF head gasket.

bobbybrown
15-05-2009, 10:25 AM
Yeah, I've told him all about it already.
problem is, some heads have the bolt holes for both tensioners so he is trying to work out which one he has.
Also, its not strictly true. I've done work on 1994 engines that have an auto tensioner, and again my old late 1998 engine had a manual.

Big Birds Car
15-05-2009, 11:02 AM
The wifes car is a late 98 and has a manual adjust but then you will always get an overlap of sorts with a year change. Has Dorsetlad just got a load of boxes with bits of engine in them or started with a complete unit that he is rebuilding, if the latter then the description holds up, allen key for manual, two hex heads for auto.
Nice engine when running well, just try to eliminate the thermal shocks in the water system if you want to keep it running well.

dorsetlad
15-05-2009, 11:53 AM
Thanks for the infomation Dan & BBC.
The situation at present is that i have a complete k16 "with manual tensioner" that i have used for the original installation into the Nova, and to use for the making of the rover/vw flywheel " and the adapter plate.Its done about 40k ...... nice tight engine, but, its at that stage in its life when H/G problem are most lightly to crop up. " maybe/maybe not". Some while ago i managed to pick up a newish short block only done about 2k that will eventualy go into the Nova. Now im ready to get a Freelander reconditioned cylinder head, most that i have seen are auto tension, again thats no problem, its knowing which type of tensioner to fit " plastic or metal" and what type and teeth for the crank pully????. the new cam belts that i have will probably be no use as they are the 23mm and not the 26mm. Ok will cut you all loose as the Flywheel has just arrived along with the new MGF coil and other bits. Maybe you should move this all into the engine or flywheel section dan.... dont want to clutter this one up. Will send some pics of the flywheel and the engine to you as promised, perhaps you could post them up for me.....
Terry

Big Birds Car
15-05-2009, 12:12 PM
Terry, unless you have already got or paid for the reconditioned head I would take the one off the engine you have and replace the gasket with one of the multi layer items with the head saver shim gasket that they fit to the freelander along with the steel dowels and for added safety the freelander bottom oil plate and re-use the original engine. The bottom end on these are fairly bullet proof in standard form and unless you are upping to VVC spec or when you take the head off it's bu%%ered I would stick with the original.
I have two MGF's (long storey, not going into it) and one has had a replacement gasket at 70K but with an original gasket and needs another one now at 128K but the bottom end is still strong and oil pressure fine. The other one I bought with a blown gasket and replaced it as above without the need for a skim, it had 58K when done and has done a further 6K since Christmas without an issue, again the bottom end was fine. I would suggest that at 40K the head will be ok unless it is one of the very poor castings that has become porous, as you have to take it off anyway to put a recon one on I would bide my time and take a look first.
Whatever way good luck.

bobbybrown
15-05-2009, 01:39 PM
BBC, Terry is fitting an uprated gasket with steel dowels and the uprated oik rail as far as I am aware.
You are exactly right about the bottom ends, they very rarely go wrong, I've only ever seen 4 or 5 pack up and that was more down to owner error than engine malfunction.

Terry, if your set on putting a reconditioned head on to your block, why don't you recon your existing one?
Piece of cake and costs next to nothing if you do it yourself.

Big Birds Car
15-05-2009, 02:16 PM
Terry, if your set on putting a reconditioned head on to your block, why don't you recon your existing one?
Piece of cake and costs next to nothing if you do it yourself.

Dan, that's the bit I was wondering about myself, especially given that the original engine hasn't been torn down already, or did I miss that bit somewhere else in the thread?

dorsetlad
15-05-2009, 02:59 PM
Thats a good idea about reconing my existing head. Have it hot bath cleaned, pressure tested, head checked/ maybe have it lightly skimmed. Just found 8 new inlet valves and 8 exhaust valves in one of my boxes. Can use my new existing cam belts and alternator belt. Move the nearly new alternator and bracket.just need valve springs, valve stem oil seals, cam front & rear seals, new cam bearing shells. The new lower oil rail, s/s head dowels, H/G set and new head bolts and a few other bits im sure. Just managed to pick up a few bits new MGF coil £18. Brand new thermostat, thermostat housing, and the connecting cooling pipe, £23.

A complete and ready to fit new MGZR inlet manifold with,
1/ fuel pressure regulator MKW70016
2/ Manifold absolute pressure (map) sensor MUK 100820
3/ Fuel rail, 4 injectors, hose fuel pipe
4/ Idle control value (IAC)
5/ Throttle position sensor
6/ Fuel pressure regulator
7/ Alloy throttle body 48mm
8/ Wiring to connect to engine loom
9/ air hoses

£80 thought it was £70
Have fitted the Lotus oil filter adapter to give me 3 more oil pressure/temp sensors.
I cant put the pics of the new flywheel on here Dan, so if i send them to you, would you post on here for me.
The engine loom is finished and back on the car ,....... the other main body loom is nearly ready 1/2 days to finish. Have fitted the rear camber compensator,.... and painted it a vivid blue the same as the rear drums & front discs. New drive shaft gaitors, the other ones perished after two years and never been driven, these new ones feel very supple not like the old ones, both from heratige. Ok will send the pics up to you Dan.
Cheers Terry

bobbybrown
15-05-2009, 05:07 PM
Terry,
I have numerous valves, caps, springs, collets from a K16 sitting in boxes in my shed, you can have them if you want them. They aren't new, but they are perfectly good ones.

To be honest, if you pop your valves out and change the stem seals then lap the valves back in so they are all nice and fresh it should be good for a good long time!

bobbybrown
15-05-2009, 05:14 PM
Here are your pictures Terry.

Looking very good :clapping:
Although, that rocker cover won't be doing much good without a head fitted :crylol:

http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c319/djmrdg/PICT1029.jpg
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c319/djmrdg/PICT1031.jpg
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c319/djmrdg/PICT1033.jpg
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c319/djmrdg/PICT1035.jpg
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c319/djmrdg/PICT1038.jpg
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c319/djmrdg/PICT1039.jpg

dorsetlad
15-05-2009, 07:35 PM
Thanks for moving this to "engines" Dan. Best price i can find for the uprated H/G set with new stretch bolts is £42.00, not bad when one considers Land Rover and MGF South want that much for just the H/G set. Still looking for the Freelander lower oil rail, missed, "forgot more like" the last one on Ebay went for about £24.00, . Dave from sterling sports cars has sent my pair of air vent covers......... bit of work to trim & prep them. It seems you dont have to mess up your gell coat to "bond" them into your body work any more, hes sending details over on how to screw them to the body from underneath. Might fit a thin rubber seal to the edges before screwing them down.
Terry

bobbybrown
15-05-2009, 07:38 PM
Thats a good price for the set with bolts, try ebay Terry, you can normally pick up a bargain for the gasket set with bolts on there too. Pretty much what I get them for on trade.

Same with the oil rail.

Big Birds Car
15-05-2009, 08:23 PM
Terry, I have to agree with Dan, just because you needed to get a bit of height reduction to get the engine under the louvres, removal of the head isn't the answer it wont run well at all :laugh:

dorsetlad
15-05-2009, 09:27 PM
:oops2:

Dam,... i didnt think anyone would notice,

dorsetlad
15-05-2009, 09:34 PM
What are the Better makes of H/G sets, and what ones should i be weary of.

bobbybrown
15-05-2009, 10:53 PM
There is one to be wary of, I'll look on ebay for you when I get home, about an hour and will post up the ones you want to look for.

bobbybrown
15-05-2009, 11:17 PM
Right,
I don't use FSA gaskets, personal choice really but I find they are absolute crap.

What you want is a klinger, but since they make these for the T series rover lumps only, you won't get one.
But...the next best thing is this:

CLICK ME (http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ROVER-25-45-75-214-216-218-414-416-UPRATED-HEAD-GASKET_W0QQitemZ120208917221QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_ CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM?hash=item1202089172 21&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=72%3A1683|66%3A2|65%3A12|39%3A1|240%3A13 18|301%3A1|293%3A1|294%3A50)
or
CLICK ME, WITH BOLTS (http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/214-216-218-414-416-16V-UPRATED-HEAD-GASKET-SET-BOLTS_W0QQitemZ120307861823QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_C arsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM?hash=item12030786182 3&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=72%3A1683|66%3A2|65%3A12|39%3A1|240%3A13 18|301%3A1|293%3A1|294%3A50)

The second one is an uprated head gasket like you need, which also comes with the new stretch bolts, the shim, and according to the picture, a set of stem seals, and the inlet and exhaust manifold gaskets.
Everything you will need to do the job with the least hassle possible.

The second set shown is the one that I always buy for doing head gaskets on K16's.

Also, just to advise, if your reading on the net, you will find a lot of people saying to skim the head and a lot saying not to.
Personal preference but I find that if the head isn't skimmed on a k16 when changing the head gasket then it goes again shortly afterwards.

Always get the head skimmed, just a little so its perfectly flat and true, it also removes any grime and dirt that may be on the mating surface.

Hope that helps a little.

dorsetlad
16-05-2009, 03:26 PM
Have decided to refit the complete k16, which leaves me more time to finish building the other short block. Doesnt take long to bolt it back in, and gives me a chance to sort any problems once its running. Too late to get the lower ladder rail for the short block from the Land rover dealer, shuts lunch time. Must go out and put my new road tax disc up, only realised the other day that it had run out about two months ago. Taxed it over the phone ok, they told me i might have to pay the difference, checked with my local office and they said no charge. "great".

dorsetlad
17-05-2009, 05:08 PM
Just read an interesting bit by Roger Parker on the k series and HGF. He gives a hint for those not using the newer Pressure relief thermostat is to drill a 3mm hole in the thermostat flange and then refit the stat with the hole placed at 12 oclock. the controled bleed helps reduce thermal variation and thermal movement in the engine. and increases warm up time. Have you used this idea Dan?

bobbybrown
17-05-2009, 05:18 PM
I haven't Terry.

I too have heard of the idea, but I've never needed to use it.
Its more work, and if the engine is looked after properly its un-necessary.

dorsetlad
27-05-2009, 10:15 PM
Hi Dan , have surfaced once more, laid up for a while, but getting ready to start rebuilding the engine. took yours and BBC advice and used the head off the original engine. Was very impressed as to how tidy it looked . Picked it up this afternoon, £20 to crack & pressure test it and give it a very light clean up skim. fitted a new mgf coil pack, have all the new h/g / dowels & bolts. New auto tensioner and matching cam belt+ a new alternator belt. The valve stem oil seals & cam seals should be here in the morning. But still looking for a set of new valve springs.
Have managed to "thread" the new loom through from the rear of the car to the "dash area" just need to pass the rest of the loom through to the front well, to connect the wires mainly for the lighting/ indicators/ hazards. At least i labled all of the wires at each end. Will post some pics as soon as i can.
Terry

Big Birds Car
28-05-2009, 08:41 AM
Glad you are moving forward. With the MGF engine in there it should motor well. I used the (now dented) wife's MGF to go to work this morning and used one of Bushboys "private" roads from Lizzy, it just wacked it's way up to well past the ton with little effort, just wish it had a 6th. gear :laugh: As fith on the mg is probably only just a tad smaller than 1:1 I would suggest that the Nova will cruise well in top which I assume is 1:1. The Mg does use 205/50/15 wheels and tyres so I would suggest that your rear tyres should be somewhere near to that rolling diameter to get the speed and the economy (the Mg will give mid 30's cruising at 90).
Hope progress continues apace.

dorsetlad
28-05-2009, 05:40 PM
Not realy sure what the final drive ratio is BBC, maybe some could let me know.At the moment in using 205x70x15s 6J on the front and ( silly looking ) 245x70x15 8J on the rear. Must alter the adjustable puma front beam a bit . the under tray only a couple of inches off the floor I have been taking to "minilite" to supply some 15/16" alloys with the 4x130 vw stud pattern, awaiting a priice. The little machine shop that skimmed the head have been doing a fair amount of work machining bits to alter the stud pattern on alloys, so will have a chat with them after i get loads of feed back from the lads on here as to the better sizes to go for. The cars coming on slowly with all the starts and stops, but im sure it will get here.
Terry

dorsetlad
29-05-2009, 08:02 PM
Took the valves out this morning to replace them ........... " ping" one of the collets decided to fly up ito the air and disapear behind the degreasing tank come draws. You would not want to meet the big hairy spiders that i encountered, amongst the muck and cobwebs. No luck finding it,..... these rover collets have to be the smallest little nippers i have come across. Brain wave, out comes the telescopic magnet, waved it around for ten/fifteen mins, no luck ... found it on the last desperate sweep. so will finish lapping the new valves in tommorow, degrease the head , refit the valves with new oil seals, fit the new cam seals and should be on the way to fitting the head.

bobbybrown
29-05-2009, 08:46 PM
Terry, If you lose anymore give me a shout. I have millions of collets here.

dorsetlad
29-05-2009, 09:50 PM
Will do Dan, thanks. not realy looking forward to fitting them tomorrow, ...... fiddley .. even using grease and long nose pliers. Will get there though.

bobbybrown
29-05-2009, 11:51 PM
I use multi purpose grease and put a generous amount on to the collet with a flat blade screwdriver, magnetic of course.
That will usually be enough to hold the collet to the valve until its all together :wink:

dorsetlad
06-06-2009, 10:58 AM
Dan, could you measure the bolt for the crankshaft cam pully with the alernator pully for me, as i dont have one big enough to get the thread and length. Also would you have any spare cam belt covers , i have the top & bottom "outer covers but not the underneath ones.
Have you got the con rod out and fitted yet.
Terry

bobbybrown
06-06-2009, 12:17 PM
Hi Terry,
Sure I can do that for you later today.
I don't have any covers unfortunately, I think I only have T series ones which are no good at all.

Conrod and piston and now firmly seated in my car and its running sweet as a nut again thanks to you.

I really do appreciate your help with that :cheers:

dorsetlad
06-06-2009, 03:17 PM
No problem Dan, Glad to have helped.
Terry

bobbybrown
06-06-2009, 06:47 PM
Terry, for the crank pulley bolt:
Including the head of the bolt, exactly 9cm.
Not including the head, exactly 7cm.

Hope that helps.

dorsetlad
06-06-2009, 09:20 PM
Thanks Dan thats great. Have managed to get the valves back in on cylinder 1 & 4, My Pickavant compressor wont reach cylinders 2&3, madening. Will pop down to a mate monday morning and get him to put the remaining valves back in. Then finish rebuilding the engine.
Terry

bobbybrown
06-06-2009, 09:23 PM
You should pick up a universal compressor from halfords, approx £30 and does pretty much any head :wink:

dorsetlad
09-06-2009, 01:18 PM
Managed to get the valves in with their new oil seals, Borrowed a mates spring compressor , .... adjustable both ends.
Will fit the bottom crank pullies and turn the engine over to 90 deg BTDC ready to fit the head. New cam seal are in. Must copy all the bolt torque and sequence from my rover CD. Am not going to rehab tommorow because it buggers me up for 3/4 days, as i want to get on with the engine build.
Terry

Big Birds Car
09-06-2009, 01:53 PM
Be very careful when turning the engine over, apparently it is possible to dislodge the lines and cause leaks past the seals.
This is a bit from the MG owners guide to replacing a head gasket:

Once the main through bolts are removed do not attempt to turn the engine over unless you have the specific liner retaining tools in place, or until the head is refitted and the bolts tightened, otherwise the liners will be disturbed.

Just a precautionary note.

bobbybrown
09-06-2009, 04:40 PM
Yeah, Terry do not turn the crank AT ALL until the head is fitted and torqued down.
If you do, you will DEFINATELY dislogde the liners and you will then need to strip the entire engine down, to reseal them.

Loads of problems mate, just put the head on, then turn the crank to time it up, just do it carefully.

Personally I would fit the head, leaving out the cams. Make sure all valves are closed on the head then torque it down, turn the crank, fit the cams and time it all up.

Safe as houses, bit longer timewise but none of the hassle of dislodging liners.

dorsetlad
10-06-2009, 11:48 AM
Thanks for the good advice Dan & BBC regarding the the liner seals. Im pretty sure that the engine has never been turned over since the head was taken off. Having said that,....... i dropped in to see another mechanic friend this morning, "got my ass kicked for not visiting him for a while" and his tea cups still taste of cats pee " old gearbox oil", you know what i mean ???? . Any way, i mentioned to him what i had been doing to the Nova and it got round to the short block, and about the problem of the liner seals if the engine is turned over without the rover clamps in place, His reply was to Get the short block down to him and he would replace the seals for a couple of cans of Stella, :cheers: he didnt want me to finish and install the engine only to find out that the seals fail after all the hard work done. So now it gives me a few days and get some of the new loom sorted.
Terry

bobbybrown
10-06-2009, 06:23 PM
Excellent news!
It won't hurt to have new seals in there, will make your build even better.

Is your wiring project going alright or are you having trouble with the loom?

dorsetlad
10-06-2009, 07:48 PM
As you say Dan it makes a better build with new seals in. I dont recon on too many problems using the new loom, as have labled each end of each wire where its going to and where its coming from & the colours. Also followed the rover wiring colour code. Have included six spare wires in the loom from the rear engine bay fuse box area to the main switches & connections in the dash/cockpit area, and then through to the front fuse box/hydraulic pump, second battery. Still famous last word says Sods law will apply.
I have to look out for two pairs of the escort hatch back spring loaded connections for the winscreen wipers/washers. Two or three D sub computer plugs to be able to disconnect the wiring from the rear of the car to the cockpit area, and the same for the cables from the front fuse distribution. I already have the wiring loom working for the up & down push buttons in the drivers glove conpartment for the hydraulic pump. and the Quasar remote thingy. Must follow DJs last lenghty Email ......" gone, yet not forgotten " to reconfigure the Quasar to be able to isolate the dam thing....... " have already sent the roof up by leaning on the car with the remote in my pocket". surprising how fast i can move when that happens mate. I have to cut the holes in the mk4 rear panel to site the rear led side/brake/indicators then the two Land rover discovery reversing lights and fog lights.

Im now awaiting your reply to say " and what are you going to do for the rest of the day "

Terry

bobbybrown
11-06-2009, 02:31 AM
:tongue:

That little lot should fill at least the day for you easily :wink:

dorsetlad
24-06-2009, 12:05 AM
Picked up the short block from my mates place today, am realy pleased with it, especialy since he told me that when he stripped it down to put the new liner seals in he found it was new and never been run before. Nice little 100 quid bargain. Have to wait untill the morning to get help to lift it out and straight onto the engine stand. He was a bit concerned when he turned the crank over to undo the big ends and found the crank pinching up, untill he realised thats what happens when the Rover head bolts are taken out.

dorsetlad
29-06-2009, 08:59 PM
Managed to get the head torqued down to 20 Nm in sequence followed by 180 deg and a second 180 deg. Hope to time the crank shaft 90 deg BTC & fit the cams / cam belt & auto tensioner. Dont like the alloy block .... half exspected the head bolt to shear a thread.

bobbybrown
29-06-2009, 10:09 PM
Torqued perfectly Terry.

Good luck with the rest of the job.

dorsetlad
02-07-2009, 05:37 PM
Have got the engine finished ,all apart from the water thermostat housing & pipe, but cant do that untill hopefully tomorrow, when i take the engine off the stand. Then i can bolt the New alloy vw/rover flywheel on and bolt it up to the gear box. will send a few picks of it to you Dan, and maybe you could include them on here for me.
The MG ( lower alternator bracket )that i picked up from Ebay , turned out to be the correct UPPER bracket because the alternator sits lower .... not having the A/C pump in the way. So looking for the lower non A/C adjustable bracket. Many thanks to all for your help and pms. Terry

bobbybrown
02-07-2009, 05:43 PM
Good work Terry, I'm still working on that bracket for you.
Seems to be taking a while to get a response!

Dan

dorsetlad
03-07-2009, 03:49 PM
Thanks Dan. Have sent you a few pic of the K16 rebuilt, ...... at last, needs a wash. Could you insert them for me. I cant fit the thermostat housing and coolant pipe, or the alloy flywheel untill i take the engine off the stand. Then its hoist it up and bolt it in .

dorsetlad
05-08-2009, 09:08 AM
I remembered to fit a cylinder head this time BBC.
http://i630.photobucket.com/albums/uu22/euro-nova/th_PICT1066.jpg (http://s630.photobucket.com/albums/uu22/euro-nova/?action=view&current=PICT1066.jpg)
http://i630.photobucket.com/albums/uu22/euro-nova/th_PICT1063.jpg (http://s630.photobucket.com/albums/uu22/euro-nova/?action=view&current=PICT1063.jpg)
Terry

dorsetlad
05-08-2009, 09:30 AM
first time to use the new photoshop?????????? how does one get rid of all the side guff and just leave the photos.
The modded dash is about 90% finnished, the rear Mk4 panel is nearly finnished too with pair of Discovery reversing lights, 4 x 115mm outer stop/tail lights with a pair of indicator centres and also a pair of stop/tail centres for the other two. Will leave the instalation of the engine and panels untill the spring. will try and put a pic or two of them soon.
Have been out of hospital but laid up about a week, work on my spine, legs & knees went well
"Excellent realy"
first time in nearly 12 years virtualy pain free. Have to make the most of it whilst it lasts.
Terry

Alzax3
05-08-2009, 08:08 PM
Hi Terry

You can close all the side bars if they annoy you, though once you start using photoshop properly, you may want them back!

dorsetlad
05-08-2009, 09:56 PM
Ok Alex, will take your advice and leave it as it is . By the way , i lambed up a cover for the Mk1 left hand pod housing. Am pleased with the finish apart from the fact i could use it for a medevil breast plate too many layers of 450 gram csm.
Terry

Big Birds Car
05-08-2009, 10:20 PM
That engine looks alot better with the head in the right place :clapping: Nice and clean as well, should look good in the backend and be fairly quick as well (took the wifes MGF out today and had a hoot as it revs to silly rpm and goes great guns for a little motor).
Hope the pain stays away for a while and when you are able you get going on finishing that car. Do you still have the best looking mechanic helping?

dorsetlad
06-08-2009, 12:46 AM
Heres a pic of the old K16 sitting in the engine bay connected to the gearbox. Plenty of room with the A/C pump bits removed.

http://i630.photobucket.com/albums/uu22/euro-nova/th_PICT0669.jpg (http://s630.photobucket.com/albums/uu22/euro-nova/?action=view&current=PICT0669.jpg)
Working on having a new alloy fuel tank made by my pal " whos borrowing my mig ", have to change the mig wire and gas............. then change it again to mig the 2.5" s/s exhaust together.

Not realy sure which " Best looking mechanic is still helping me????????

So i can only say both Hazel or Dan will be pleased you asked mate. :cheers:
Terry

Big Birds Car
06-08-2009, 09:05 AM
So i can only say both Hazel or Dan will be pleased you asked mate.
Trust me I have seen a photo of Dan and no offence Dan but it isn't him. Hazel seems to be doing a good job so far, as you appear to only show progress photo's after you have come out of hospital so it must be her doing the spannering and you doing the taking of photo's :laugh:

dorsetlad
06-08-2009, 10:06 AM
Bugger, :sorry: have been caught out again. But your not far out about Hazel doing spanner work, or just working hard. I remember one day fitting the new puma adjustable front beam before the body wert on, and not being happy with one of the locking threads, my spine and legs were realy bad . No problem .... off she went grabed the right sockets, Tap, recut the thread. Replaced the beam leafs " in the right order " ..... first time... if i can find the photo i will post it up. not with standing i think shes a great lady and very special to me. Im sure shes not the only partner to get grease under her nails.
Terry

jimcub
06-08-2009, 07:52 PM
i think the list of partners with oily fingernails is a short one, I had to employ a valet company yesterday to clean the punto so I can sell it. Must have done good as I have 6 bids in first day, looks like the nova is off limits for a few months :( or until I can press a clutch pedal safley

bobbybrown
06-08-2009, 08:08 PM
So i can only say both Hazel or Dan will be pleased you asked mate.
Trust me I have seen a photo of Dan and no offence Dan but it isn't him. Hazel seems to be doing a good job so far, as you appear to only show progress photo's after you have come out of hospital so it must be her doing the spannering and you doing the taking of photo's :laugh:
:crylol:

dorsetlad
18-09-2009, 04:18 PM
Cant think where i saw the post to support the "heavier" engine to take the strain off the vw bellhousing. have a look at what i have done and see if its any help. engines out at the moment so the angle frame isnt installed. I welded a U shape brackets out of fairly heavy angle iron and bolted it down both sides of the flat edge of the Horn , made a pair of brackets and bolted them to the end of the horn using the gearbox mount bolts. You need a a large socket and a bit of pipe to undo them . the end of the U shape bolted up to a spare threaded hole in the sump with i think a ford rubber piece to act as a cushion. As i say , it might help.

Terry
http://i630.photobucket.com/albums/uu22/euro-nova/th_PICT1215.jpg (http://s630.photobucket.com/albums/uu22/euro-nova/?action=view&current=PICT1215.jpg)