View Full Version : plastic edging strip.

08-03-2011, 08:04 AM
Hi is there anywere in england that sells the plastic strip which you use when refitting the body panels as i have had no luck
in tracking it down.

many thanks.

08-03-2011, 08:44 AM
I searched long and hard for the original 'T' section, couldn't find anything with a long enough 'leg' (trying and failing to trap a short legged section would just result in the job looking typically 'kit car') - I bought a nice flat 'D' section adhesive plastic at last years Stones which will look better than the red insulation tape that's been on the car since I first got it(!) but haven't got round to fitting it yet. it all else fails, the best (but definitely not the cheapest) solution may be to have a company like Viking Extrusions make you a bespoke section - you could get a quote first then see if there were enough people here who'd like to order with you. It's what I did with the roof seals, bit of a nightmare coordinating, but it gets the job done!

08-03-2011, 10:08 AM
I've found these guys very handy, and they can make stuff to order too.


Vasco Da Gamer
08-03-2011, 01:15 PM
Or.... unless there's something I don't know, you could just leave it out altogether - check out the Green Machine (and several other Euro-Nova / Nova Club member's machines); no extrusion on there and they still look great.

Mine has no extrusion either and I have decided to leave it that way.

09-03-2011, 12:41 PM
Steve, you're very kind, but I think on closer inspection its very clear that my panel fit is not very good and edging strip can be an effective way of concealing the joins. When I first bought the Green Machine (which was black then) it had the self-adhesive stuff that Alex mentioned. Unfortunately the adhesive had started to debond around the wheelarch returns, which looked silly, and when I peeled the strips off completely I was sufficiently impressed with the smooth look to want to keep it :D

Chrome/black edging strip certainly gives the Nova a "period" look, and on the Mk2s the canopy was supplied oversize and trimmed to fit by the customer (unlike earlier cars which had the body/canopy delivered ready fitted from the factory), making edging strip virtually mandatory!


10-03-2011, 10:25 AM
I used plastic padding flexible filler on all edges and wheel arch returns and smoothed them round and painted.

Vasco Da Gamer
10-03-2011, 12:49 PM
:cool1: Yes - I prefer the smooth look myself - and I can't claim to have particularly good panel fit either.

The previous owner of my car had used filler on the nose section (not the side and rear panels though) - which was of course damaged when I took the nose off to replace the head stock. It's on the list of things to fix. I'm far too pessimistic to fill and smooth ! I'd just know I would be taking the panels off again for some annoying reason after finishing them.

I remember reading about having to trim the canopy in a build log somewhere - that sounds like a hideous job - frought with the worry of messing it up.


10-03-2011, 03:21 PM
If you want the smooth look between panels there is an old trick called sellotape, place our sticky backed clear friend along the body where the joint will be, apply a layer of filler to the panel and bolt/clamp together, clean off access and smooth the joint with a wet finger, allow to set (overnight is good), when you pull the panel off the filler will not stick to the tape and you just need to sand down and paint. goes back on with hardly a seam to be seen.

Vasco Da Gamer
11-03-2011, 08:22 AM
Well I had to read that several times before I got it :dunce: but that's a great idea! Will try that out when I get to paint stage. In fact I reckon it must have been something like that done on the nose of the car (before I knackered it).


11-03-2011, 10:59 AM
Sellotape, packaging tape, clingflim and plastic bags are all really great tools form forming gap fills in filler or glassfibre, or with mastic, as they form perfectly to shape and stufdf doesnt stick to them. I did a similar thing when trying to make a seal at the top of the body of the doors on the sapratn, it had been modified to look more Morgan like but the wind got in under the door panel where it hit the body - so I covered the inside of the door panel with clingfilm, masticked all over the body and slammed the two together, the following day I've got a nice bespoke thick mastic seal which just needs a bit of trimming around the edge, and aperfect windproof seal between panel and door!
In fact I'll be doing the same thing this weekend to form small fillets under the MX5 wing mirrors as the base doesnt quite match the profile of the top of the doors.
Its a great tip Peter, and one that I know Stave McHugh uses a lot

Vasco Da Gamer
11-03-2011, 11:40 AM
Aha - I had the same problem on my Spartan, but my solution was more drastic. I ditched the straight rivetted on panels for ones I hand fabricated with the bottom edge folded over and bent back again so that the finished thing could rivet onto the bottom, top and forward edge of the steel frame. The back end is not attached - that forms the "shape" of the door where it goes off the end of the frame.

This meant I got doors with no rivets showing and could make up for the bad fit by moving the skin in our out to suit the steel frame closure. No leaks (there) at all.

It was an absolute sod to do, I will cry if anyone ever damages them!

Still leaks slightly at the top where the scuttle meets the doors though, despite all sorts of channel and rubber put on top to try and keep it out.

Did the same on the petrol tank panels - hid the rivetting by using double folded aluminium - many many Spartans are let down by pop rivetting that has been badly filled or allowed to come loose.

Uh oh, talking about Spartans on the Nova forum again... must stop that. :blushing: