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Vasco Da Gamer
26-11-2014, 01:07 PM
My first posted question in a long time.

I went to fit my rear-view mirror to the Nova windscreen recently and just in time noticed a small warning stating the glue could not be used with Triplex windscreens (which mine is).

Other glues do not have that warning judging from some research done (e.g. the Loctite variant), and there's nothing on the Net that I can find stating that you should not glue to Triplex windscreens in general.

So is it OK to use glued mirrors on Nova/Sterling windscreens, or can you get stress issues with the glass? Looking at various shots of Novas most do seem to have an arrangement hung off the roof rather than the windscreen - which is why I am asking - just in case.

Thank you.

Stephen

KEITHCANFIXIT
26-11-2014, 06:02 PM
Correct adheseive is loctite 326 plus N activator, it seems the expansion and contraction on some screens( triplex being one) causes cracking because normal glass adhesive does not expand at same rate. Can also be a problem with some bonded windscreen adhesives that don't move with screen. Dow polyurethene is what the Autoglass boys use.

KEITHCANFIXIT
26-11-2014, 06:05 PM
In saying that mine is hung from roof, for peace of mind think that is the best route given the acute angle of the screen the last thing you want to do is hit the mirror accidently as you move around inside thats attached to screen.

Spacenut
26-11-2014, 09:33 PM
Hi Steve - mine was stuck on the glass when I bought it (Triplex). The fixture fell off after a few weeks, probably due to the differential expansion noted above. Not sure how it managed to stay on for the preceding 10 years (maybe it was a weekly repair task).

Telecam was the answer for me, after a year or so using a suction-cup mirror. I have also seen mirrors fixed to the top of the dash, which can work, depending on where your line of sight is...

Suction cup is a cheap way of finding out which location is best for you.

Lauren

Peter
27-11-2014, 09:31 AM
Have a Renault mirror stuck on since 1995 and in our heat too, still there but I would go with a screw on type for peace of mind and less danger to screen.

CyCo
27-11-2014, 01:39 PM
I have also seen mirrors fixed to the top of the dash, which can work, depending on where your line of sight is...
Lauren

One of which is me.

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y105/cycoholic/My%20Eureka%20F4/seats001.jpg


http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y105/cycoholic/My%20Eureka%20F4/20141013_182513_zpsb7bc3ae0.jpg

(before you all ask, the sealant around the windscreen had 'gone off' over the last 7 years sitting out in the Australian environment, so I dug out the old crap and put in some Sikaflex Windscreen stuff. Hence the wide amount of blue tape. I only used a single width to start, and then got some on the roof almost straight away. lol)

My mirror was attached to the windscreen when I first got it, but you couldn't see diddly out the rear window. One day a few years later, I gently bumped it and it fell off. I already had a couple holes in the top of my dash (filled with black silicone), and so decided to mount it there. Drilled a countersunk hole in the small mounting plate normally used to stick it to the windscreen, and bolted it to the dash. And I now can see straight out the rear window.

:wink:

Peter
28-11-2014, 09:19 AM
As long as you have TWO side mirrors you don't need a central one.

Vasco Da Gamer
28-11-2014, 10:17 AM
Thank you for your input everyone.

Yes - that's the version of Loctite that I found too Keith.

Think I'll be fabricating a new and hopefully clever bracket to mount it then - something to spread the load on the roof in case I do smack it one (I am assuming attachment via self tappers is the only option).

I do have two working side mirrors now - Vitaloni California repro with an annoying tendency to droop, plus a Telecam mounted on the back panel - so the middle mirror is heading towards overkill admittedly, but it just feels wrong without it.

I too looked at dash-mounting a mirror, but on a MK1 dash (with two pods now - I eventually sourced the second - which carries the monitor) it doesn't look quite right. Interesting that the view is better though - I will revisit that.

At some stage I may start fiddling with the Telecam FOV like Lauren, but plenty of other stuff to do first.

Thanks again.

Stephen

CyCo
28-11-2014, 12:25 PM
As long as you have TWO side mirrors you don't need a central one.

We have to have one here in Oz. Even if you have a reversing camera, in case that fails.

MicksRedNova
28-11-2014, 12:29 PM
Thank you for your input everyone.

Yes - that's the version of Loctite that I found too Keith.

Think I'll be fabricating a new and hopefully clever bracket to mount it then - something to spread the load on the roof in case I do smack it one (I am assuming attachment via self tappers is the only option).
Stephen
Stephen
I have mine mounted on a piece of Duralumin type material that was the stiffener in a wrist brace that a Physio gave me after spraining my wrist playing squash(a long time ago obviously). The wrist brace is called a 'cock-up' and stops your wrist flexing forward. The piece of Dural looked useful so I kept it. Its about 10 inch long 3mm thick with nicely radiused corners and a matt finish. With a couple of holes and self tappers into the roof its an ideal mount for the mirror.
I get good visibility through the rear with it, although at speed the road vibration means you cant read the number plate of the car behind at 70mph.
http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q49/MickAtHome/Mobile%20Uploads/SAM_0991_zps9558d414.jpg


http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q49/MickAtHome/Mobile%20Uploads/SAM_0992_zps680ab3d4.jpg
And eventually it will be painted or hidden behind the roof lining.

Mick

Spacenut
28-11-2014, 06:32 PM
I would still say try a suction cup mirror first - and I mean actually driving on the road, not just sat in the drive; you might find it impossible to see forwards around a centrally-placed mirror (like I did), and if the telecam works out, there will be no holes to fill :thumbup:

Lauren

Peter
29-11-2014, 11:10 AM
I get good visibility through the rear with it, although at speed the road vibration means you cant read the number plate of the car behind at 70mph.
And eventually it will be painted or hidden behind the roof lining.

Mick

If you replace the two rivets with those rubber well nuts and screws (DIY shop) it will cut out the vibration.

Vasco Da Gamer
02-12-2014, 12:20 PM
Sometimes the answer really is as simple as a bendy bracket - I see you simply screwed the mirror directly to it to get around the mounting angles issue. I would think simply using even thicker metal - probably stainless steel - will largely sort the vibration issue.

What are rubber well nuts though? I'll look those up.

I had a suction mirror on there in the very brief period I drove it - got fed with with sticking it back onů :-) Further forward on the glass definitely works much better and is a lot less view obstructing, so I am currently thinking of modifying Mick's design to move the mirror itself further away from the driver but not allowing it to vibrate against the screen of course.

Stephen

MicksRedNova
02-12-2014, 04:25 PM
Sometimes the answer really is as simple as a bendy bracket - I see you simply screwed the mirror directly to it to get around the mounting angles issue. I would think simply using even thicker metal - probably stainless steel - will largely sort the vibration issue.

What are rubber well nuts though? I'll look those up.

I had a suction mirror on there in the very brief period I drove it - got fed with with sticking it back on… :-) Further forward on the glass definitely works much better and is a lot less view obstructing, so I am currently thinking of modifying Mick's design to move the mirror itself further away from the driver but not allowing it to vibrate against the screen of course.

Stephen
The mirror I used has a ball and socket joint in the housing on a stalk to it's original mount. I chopped the end off and drilled the stalk to accept a self tapper. So the mirror is fully adjustable and has the dim-dip feature. It's as close to the glass as it can be. I did try a bitof rubber between screen and bracket but its the whole roof assembly vibrating I think.

Mick

Peter
03-12-2014, 08:56 AM
Sometimes the answer really is as simple as a bendy bracket - I see you simply screwed the mirror directly to it to get around the mounting angles issue. I would think simply using even thicker metal - probably stainless steel - will largely sort the vibration issue.

What are rubber well nuts though? I'll look those up.

I had a suction mirror on there in the very brief period I drove it - got fed with with sticking it back onů :-) Further forward on the glass definitely works much better and is a lot less view obstructing, so I am currently thinking of modifying Mick's design to move the mirror itself further away from the driver but not allowing it to vibrate against the screen of course.

Stephen
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1-Quantity-M6-Rubber-Well-Nut-Universal-Windscreen-Fairing-6mm-1-2-Wellnut-/331334358727?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4d251116c7