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View Full Version : Type 4 Crankcase - How to remove cylinder head studs?



steve
02-12-2017, 05:10 PM
Hi Everyone,
I bought a Type 4 Crankcase in order to trial fit the Gearbox mount / Engine adapter plate.
I need to strip it down further and clean out the oil so it's easier to handle.

My question is, how do I remove the cylinder head studs without damaging them?
.. or is it normal to rip them out and replace?
Are they sealed in with some kind of thread locker?

2450

Phill
02-12-2017, 06:47 PM
When I rebuilt my 1300cc engine I simply threaded on two nuts and tightened the top one against the bottom one then removed the studs by turning the lower of the two nuts anticlockwise while they were locked together. I removed all the studs without any difficulty using this method.

Bear in mind some of the studs are a different length to others (at least they are on the 1300) so keep a note of which stud goes where

MartinB
02-12-2017, 07:01 PM
just been checking through 'how to rebuild your Volkswagen air cooled engine' (Tom Wilson), and I cannot see any reference to removing the studs except for a comment on re-assembly which says;-
'If the cylinder studs were removed for some reason, install them now. Apply Permatex 3H to their threads to stop oil leaks.'
From what I understand this is a 'non-hardening' thread sealant.
In ref to fitting the studs, it suggests that they should not be particularly tightened, but run in until snug.
Its almost suggested that if there is not an issue, then don't remove them, although in theory they could easily be taken out if the head nuts are seized... I guess this is not the case with your studs!
I also looked elsewhere but have not as yet found any mention of 'how to remove' other than general stud info via google...

I did find this info that may prove useful in the future, but again it doesn't seem to contain info about stud removal (unless I missed it!) http://haysvwrepair.com/rebuilding-an-air-cooled-vw-engine-non-lego-toy-style/

Maybe someone here can suggest something if you really need to remove them?
Phill's suggestion would be what I would try first, provided they are not so tight that you break a stud! (They should not be that tight after all?)

ratrog64
02-12-2017, 10:30 PM
The double nut method is the best. If it's still giving you trouble you can use a vice grip on the smooth part of the stud and turn that and the double nut at the same time. Don't be afraid to add some heat where the stud meets the case if you have to. They should back out without too much trouble generally.

steve
02-12-2017, 11:02 PM
Thanks gents; I'll go for the double nut method tomorrow (blow-torch at the ready).
The Studs look like they have been in for a loong time, they are currently soaking in a generous coating WD40.

Johan
17-03-2018, 02:21 PM
Steve, The double nut method where you lock the two nuts against each other will normally work as long as Murphy and mr Rust is not around. The question is why do you want to take them out. The type 4 motor fits perfectly on a type 1 box except for the flywheel. I have used a 1700 type 4 flywheel and presure plate with a 200mm clutch plate with great succes. It is only plug and play. The type four motor will perfectly fit into your Nova as the rear valance is shaped to accommodate it.
Enjoy!

Peter
18-03-2018, 01:14 PM
Whilst you at this stage you might like to look at better quality studs such as chromemoly ones which expand less when hot. Also use steel insert in the crankcase as it has been know for the M8 threads to pull out of the alloy. Use a sealer on the threads as well as stated.

https://www.vwheritage.com/ac1984020hd-cylinder-head-stud-kit-8mm-standard-length-chromoly-vw-spare
Just like wot I done, :thumbup: