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Thread: 1st Nova & the unregistered one

  1. #1091
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    Looking very professional nice job.

    Dirk

  2. #1092
    Well its finally done (well at least the last layer of fibreglass is down).



    I used fibreglass cloth as the last layer the same as on the mold itself as it gives a much nicer surface to handle on the final part later, less chance of fibres stabbing you. It gives a nice finish but is a pain to get rid of air bubbles and sit flat, especially a reasonably heavy weight cloth like this one. Where I had air bubbles on the front section I ended up just pushing them to the blanking panel area that was going to be cut out anyway


    The cloth with a dark pigment gives it a sort of carbon fibre finished look



    So this weekend I'll try to release it from the mold

  3. #1093
    Owners Register Admin & Euro-Nova Supporter BlueNova's Avatar
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    Looking great David. Hope it releases ok. If you were based in the uk I reckon youíd be getting requests for all sorts of Nova fibreglass work

  4. #1094
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    Very nice, i can feel your anticipation now wanting to pull it.
    I have used woven cloth lots in the past, but that video you put the link too says you should only use woven with epoxy resin as polyester does not brake down the fibres.

    Dirk

    Sent from my SM-G973F using Tapatalk

  5. #1095
    Quote Originally Posted by Dirk View Post
    Very nice, i can feel your anticipation now wanting to pull it.
    I have used woven cloth lots in the past, but that video you put the link too says you should only use woven with epoxy resin as polyester does not brake down the fibres.

    Dirk

    Sent from my SM-G973F using Tapatalk

    I didn't watch all the way through (clearly I should have ...LOL)

  6. #1096
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    Looking great with the 'carbon fibre' finish.
    Just viewing some old pics of the Dash (buck), you have a centre section above the main tube that will
    hold the Radio, probably Heat & Vent controls, etc. I'd suggest you cut that out completely (leave the corners) then 3D print a panel with the cut-outs for your radio & switches, all recessed into the panel for an OEM look.
    The panel can be attached by 4 counter-sunk allen head bolts, removed and folded forward for maintenance. If you want to add or move switches later, just print off another panel.
    I plan on using this approach this for my driver's Mk1 Dash pod.

  7. #1097
    Quote Originally Posted by steve View Post
    Looking great with the 'carbon fibre' finish.
    Just viewing some old pics of the Dash (buck), you have a centre section above the main tube that will
    hold the Radio, probably Heat & Vent controls, etc. I'd suggest you cut that out completely (leave the corners) then 3D print a panel with the cut-outs for your radio & switches, all recessed into the panel for an OEM look.
    The panel can be attached by 4 counter-sunk allen head bolts, removed and folded forward for maintenance. If you want to add or move switches later, just print off another panel.
    I plan on using this approach this for my driver's Mk1 Dash pod.
    Don't worry if all goes well it will be the OEM look using OEM panels.....watch this space as it all depends how it goes this weekend. The buck was designed around OEM panels, albeit for the centre section some cut down ones.

  8. #1098
    Well I popped the dash out of the mold, it came away relatively easily BUT not without its problems. My little experiment on not using PVA in addition to the wax to get a mirror finish on some areas turned out to be a bad idea, especially as I had sanded the mold prior to the gel coat in some areas to address issues prior to gel coat. The only area where wax alone gave the desired finish was the dash top section.

    Elsewhere despite 4 layers of wax polish the final part pulled away some of the gel coat from the mold in those areas. Also on the front passenger side where I filled the plug again the mold pulled off some gel coat off the part.





    A bit of filling and sanding on the imperfections (I console myself by the fact itís going to be covered anyway) and it started to look better, then to start cutting the blanking panels and fitting the OEM parts.






    The large front area is particularly difficult as there are 3 OEM parts, the large gauge binnacle with vents, the right-side fake wood with switches and the left side fake wood with switches and 2 DIN radio cut out. They all tie in together with each other and fit like puzzle pieces. You may remember when I was in the final stage of the buck the whole thing pulled out of shape, so I cut it and tried to realign before finishing it. Well clearly, I didnít get it all back in shape fully, as whilst the gauge binnacle fits the other two donít line up. Before proceeding Iím going to make the upper mounting points for the gauge binnacle first, so I have one fixed immovable part before proceeding to work the others out. Iíll also once all done need to add some structural support behind the gauges tying to the bottom as per the original dash.

  9. #1099
    Senior Member Phill's Avatar
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    Great work David, and fascinating to see the whole process as the project develops. And total respect to Richard Oakes and Phil Sayers in that when they developed the Nova they produced moulds capable of producing kits with a gelcoat that required no further finishing. I wonder what became of the original bucks that were used to produce the moulds for the Nova then later the Sterling and Eureka?
    "The most beautiful kit car in the world - Motor"

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  10. #1100
    Senior Member Brett's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by islandman View Post
    Well I popped the dash out of the mold, it came away relatively easily BUT not without its problems. My little experiment on not using PVA in addition to the wax to get a mirror finish on some areas turned out to be a bad idea, especially as I had sanded the mold prior to the gel coat in some areas to address issues prior to gel coat. The only area where wax alone gave the desired finish was the dash top section.

    Elsewhere despite 4 layers of wax polish the final part pulled away some of the gel coat from the mold in those areas. Also on the front passenger side where I filled the plug again the mold pulled off some gel coat off the part.
    My experience to getting a gloss finish starts of course first with the paint job on the buck. If this doesn't have the finish you desire it doesn't matter what you do, the mould will have the same finish.
    As far as PVA vs wax if I had to choose between the two I would go with PVA.
    I never had any issues getting the part out of the mould using PVA. I have tried just wax and the part doesn't separate as easy.

    Now,,, to get that gloss finish from the buck to transfer to the mould I dilute the PVA by about 50%. I know they tell you not to do it but to get the PVA to flow into a gloss finish that is what I do and I have never had any issues getting the part out of the mould

    I apply the diluted mixture with a paint spray gun. Depending on the gun, nozzle size, and air pressure and the diluted mixture, settings will vary.

    I apply the solution at about 20psi(I think the nozzel size is 1.3. If you really want to know just ask and I'll pull the gun and check) and spray a fog layer(not a mist) over the mould.
    I apply about 3 coats of this before I apply it in a heavier coat to get the gloss finish.
    If the finish layer of PVE doesn't produce the gloss finish I want I have taken a thinner mixture of PVA(75/25,Water/PVA) and apply it over the previous coats in a fog just enough to get the PVA to flow together and produce a gloss finish. Don't get crazy and go to heavy on this or the PVA will run.

    Not that you asked but thats my 2 cents on this

    Edit:

    forgot to mention that I put three coats of wax on before applying the PVA

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