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Thread: 1st Nova & the unregistered one

  1. #1051
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    Quote Originally Posted by steve View Post
    Excellent work.

    I made enquiries at a local Fibreglass shop about making a Aussie-style single sheet louvre for my car,
    (Similar to this https://www.purviscarsonline.com/pro...-window-louvre)
    I was quoted an eye-watering 4 figure sum.

    However this thread does show the manhours and skill required to create custom fibreglass parts from scratch.
    You have seen how its done now, so have a go yourself and save a fortune

    Dirk

  2. #1052
    I laid the first layer of 450gm CSM, followed by some woven glass fabric seen here. Whilst woven glass fabric gives a nice textured finish and added strength itís a pain to work with as you invariably snag your brush or roller on end threads, that like any cloth pull through and lift the piece you are working on.



    I'll probably just do one more layer of 450gm CSM, followed by adding some wooden batten supports for a stand, as well as to help stop any mold twisting later after being removed from the plug. Its only going to be a single use mold (or maybe twice) so no need to go too thick with it as you would for 100's of uses.

  3. #1053
    Quote Originally Posted by steve View Post
    However this thread does show the manhours and skill required to create custom fibreglass parts from scratch.
    Yes its quite scary when you add all the man-hours up to get to getting the final part, certainly more than 100. Which if you were making a mold for 100's of parts to be pulled from the economics work out, but for a single part no way unless its for your own passion and use.

  4. #1054
    Well there has been some progress on the dash mold, but it has not been without its fair share of challenges which Iíll explain as I go through the update.

    Top with batons glassed in as a stand and to provide torsional rigidity to stop any twisting of the mold, they also allow me to turn the part upside down to work on it.






    I started on the sides after the top piece. One of the tricky bits making molds is deciding where to put the flanges, and how much coverage to go for on an individual piece of the multi-part mold. Ideally the less pieces the better to minimize flange lines on the finished part, but the key consideration is ensuring it will release and no concave sections or undercut returns that will mean it wonít release. For the side I decided to tackle the return edge from the front passenger section also, as this should come away easily with the side section (but it wouldnít have if done with the front section due to the angle of the return edge). Flanges built with ribs and aluminium tape as usual.



    Here is the side, waxed and PVAíd



    And with the gel coat and first layer of fiber glass, a light weight 100gm coupling layer. All going well so far.



    Next I marked out to trim the flanges once all the layers were done, leaving just enough for bolts and washers to hold the mold parts together.



    Then I trimmed the edges using my multi-tool cutter, which is currently my favorite tool as it has so many uses.



    Then when tackling the other sides my problems started. It had been so long since I made the dash with expanding foam, and had been sprayed but some areas which were largely only PU foam with a thin layer of filler had started to shrink! The paint didnít crack but it did shrink back with the foam. As this return edge section wasnít going to be seen as it was under the driverís side, so I decided to try and use the filling wax as a quick fix to remove the concave section. I wonít know how well this worked (or didnít) until I remove the mold from the buck. Fingers crossed on this one.



    Side completed and trimmed.



    My next problem was that the plastic I used to cover the front panel with foam behind it had bulged out. Not a problem in itself as this area gets cut out of the final part anyway for the gauge binnacle cover, BUT coupled with the concave recess on the top edge meant It would never release from the mold. After my earlier fix with wax I figured Iíd try again, so I cut the offending section out and filled with wax.





    Followed by two coats of PVA to ensure a good release. I took a bit of a gamble making most of the gauge and heater controls section as a single mold piece. The gamble is because of the recessed concave edge on the top of the dash that allows the binnacle surround to sit snuggly out of sight. My thinking is that if I can release the bottom first and create an angle this should come off (fingers crossed for this one too)




    Then I had real problems on this front section laying the fiberglass. The first layer of mat wouldnít sit flat and ended up with may sections lifting with cavities underneath. In the end after it set I resorted to cutting the worst section out with a Dremel, removing it and the gel coat and doing a small section again. Iíve no clue how bad itís going to be until I pull the mold off the buck. Again the section in question is a blanking panel that will be cut out of the final part, so less of an issue. After the first layer was fixed, I laid the part on its side, in order to lay the fiberglass on a horizontal surface, which helped with the subsequent layers.



    Next I discovered another section where the foam had sunk back, the front beneath the passenger air vent. This is a real problem, as it is a highly visible section of the dash. I tried the wax trick again but couldnít get it to a stage I was happy. So I think Iím going to have to use body filler and sand it down prior to laying the gel coat. However, I donít have any filler left and with the lockdown I canít get any!! GrrÖ In hindsight for large areas with new foam as a finish I should have laid a layer of fiberglass over it before the filler to prevent this from happening.

    Iíve ordered some other filler online (not the right stuff) that Iíll experiment with when it comes.



    So close and yet so far!!

  5. #1055
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    Another nice write up and explanation shame about the hiccups, but looks like you are on top of them.

    Dirk

  6. #1056
    Owners Register Admin & Euro-Nova Supporter BlueNova's Avatar
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    David,

    Whilst it must be frustrating for you, I have to say that I'm really impressed with your attention to detail on a part of the car which often doesn't get much attention. Looking forward to sufficient 'normality' returning to enable you to do a trial fit in England

    Alistair

  7. #1057
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    These cars fight you all the way.

    If it's any consolation Dave, the Louvre I ordered from Purvis is stuck at the International Sorting office in New South Wales

  8. #1058
    Quote Originally Posted by BlueNova View Post
    I'm really impressed with your attention to detail on a part of the car which often doesn't get much attention.
    Two things often let Nova's down, interiors and the rear end. So I'm hoping to address the dash a part of this on both my cars.

    I was seriously bummed I couldn't make it for Kenilworth this year as the plan was I come in June for my father's 90th birthday. But given the show is postponed I feel somewhat better....but not sure I'll even get their for June at this rate for a trial fit given the various worldwide lockdowns.


    Stay safe everyone

  9. #1059
    Quote Originally Posted by steve View Post
    These cars fight you all the way.

    If it's any consolation Dave, the Louvre I ordered from Purvis is stuck at the International Sorting office in New South Wales
    Well I couldn't get any body filler here due to the lockdown, so ended up ordering from the UK with massive shipping costs......so lets see if it turns up before the lockdown is over so I can progress

  10. #1060
    Senior Member Brett's Avatar
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    Because of the issues of using body filler over the foam I have looked for other means to seal the foam.

    Even after filling in the voids twice with body filler the foam still had bad reactions with the filler and imperfections in the finished surface reappeared.

    I've tried polyester primer-surfacer and I don't recall having any issues with it. You can add micro ballons to turn it into a paste.

    I've used drywall plaster with good results. It takes a while for it to dry but its easy to sand and doesn't react with the foam.

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