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Thread: 1st Nova & the unregistered one

  1. #1271
    Quote Originally Posted by Peter View Post
    So, you are going for the full cover like the SS? I had to put drainage tubes in the low point of the body to stop rain overflowing onto the engine.Attachment 4849

    Quote Originally Posted by islandman View Post
    I’ve still got to cut the hatch, make the rain channels to bond under the hatch opening

    Yup was always part of the plan, the same as I did on the blue Nova. Drain channels with drainage tubes to direct the water to the ground not on the engine

  2. #1272
    ***Euro-Nova Supporter*** Peter's Avatar
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    Good move, I didn't on mine and when it was parked up for two years in Malaga, the tarp' blew off and rain got down the air filters into the bore and that was a new set of A&A 1641cc cylinders needed, (good excuse).
    The opinions expressed in my posts may not be made in a sound mind and should be taken in the spirit intended, Jack Daniels is fine.
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  3. #1273
    Whilst waiting for some sandpaper to turn up to allow me to sand down the gel coat repairs I did I decided to crack on with other parts of the engine cover, namely the rain channel and air vents (mainly for styling rather than function, as I may blank off the backs).


    To start with I tackled the rain channels, I found that T5-Tube Light transparent covers that I had on some of the concealed lights in the house were just the right shape I was after (several of which are now missing and cut up ). I cut these to fit the contours of the mold, then stuck them down and covered them with packing tape to ensure they release from the gelcoat and resin. With a couple of layers of fiberglass cloth and they were ready to pop out and trim off these edges. These will be bonded to the back of the panel once the engine hatch opening is cut to catch the rain that drains off the cover. I will also drill a couple of holes in the bottom and fix tubes to direct the water to the floor rather than the engine.

    The rain channel once bonded will also have the added benefit of adding further torsional rigidity to the outer panel




    In preparation for cutting the engine hatch I copied a tip I learnt from Brett, and used a laser to get a straight line over contoured surfaces such as the hump in the engine cover. This was then marked out with paint marker along the line, as in this area of the mold I didn’t do the recess as I did elsewhere so that I had cut line impressions in the gel coat to follow.



    I played around with masking tape trying to figure out how many vents I wanted and the style / size of them, this is what I settled on in the end. I cut the holes using a template I made, then also used that same template to cut the holes in some plywood too. I then mounted the cut out wood sections onto another piece of wood. This would be used to “emboss” the wire mesh, so that it pokes through the vents rather than sitting behind them. You lay the mesh over the template, place the corresponding inserts over and use a big “persuader” tool . You can vary the level of the embossing by simply hitting the wood harder with a hammer (or not).



    I don’t really like the look of this mesh, the holes are too large for the look I was after, so once I find some alternative I’ll make up another set (at least I have the embosser for reuse).

    So here is the stage it is at now. Once the sandpaper turns up I’ll do the finishing touches to the surface before I cut the hatch, then once that its done I’ll glass in the rear rain channels.


    Last edited by islandman; 25-07-2021 at 03:54 AM.

  4. #1274
    ***Euro-Nova Supporter*** BlueNova's Avatar
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    Great work David. I agree the mesh looks too coarse ... might be worth trying some of the aluminium mesh used for car body repairs?

  5. #1275
    Quote Originally Posted by BlueNova View Post
    Great work David. I agree the mesh looks too coarse ... might be worth trying some of the aluminium mesh used for car body repairs?
    It looks pretty, but is very weak and gets distorted easily. Also attacked by salty water so has to be painted. Stainless is the way to go, IMHO either reclaimed frm sporty, air-dammed scrapyard victims (when you start looking there were some goodies!) or bought off the roll....
    It's a 52 year old car and everything works, just not always at the same time.......and it's probably about to get jealous!
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  6. #1276
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    Looking good, but have to agree the mesh is too course.

    Dirk

  7. #1277
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    Hi David
    Have you considered using ABS mesh available in lots of hole shapes and sizes , if you heat it you can use your former to push it into shape, once cool it will keep its shape no corrosion or painting. I use it in solid 3mm sheet and when heated its easy to form, also easy to plastic weld or solvent glue gives an excellent bond
    Mike

  8. #1278
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    Really like the tapered design of the vents, great work.

  9. #1279
    Quote Originally Posted by Mikemrb View Post
    Hi David
    Have you considered using ABS mesh available in lots of hole shapes and sizes , if you heat it you can use your former to push it into shape, once cool it will keep its shape no corrosion or painting. I use it in solid 3mm sheet and when heated its easy to form, also easy to plastic weld or solvent glue gives an excellent bond
    Mike

    Thanks, I'll hunt around and see what I can find to experiment with


    edit : having spent some time googling all the ABS stuff I can find as as course or courser in terms of hole size to the stuff I'm using now. Where did you get yours?
    Last edited by islandman; 27-07-2021 at 12:15 AM.

  10. #1280
    So I’ve fiberglassed the rain channel to the underneath of the panel, all that is left for that part is to drill 2 holes in it either side and bond in a 90 degree elbow bend hose joiner and attach some PVC pipe to drain the water away from the engine to the floor.

    The gel coat repairs around the cut out worked well, although I didn’t bother with some around the outside of the panel as it still needs trimming and even after its bonded to the main body tub there is some filling to be done anyway. Plus I’m not sure I will use this part anyway, will only know that after I’ve made the Mark 2 version with different proportions / style of “hump”

    I’ve yet to source some new wire mesh for the vents, as I’ve not had much luck finding any with smaller holes (these are 10mm x 5mm). I’ve ordered some slightly smaller, but I think they too may be too big but let’s see when it turns up.



    I’ve also ordered some caravan window stays that I will use as the struts to hold the lid up.

    My challenge now Is making up some swan neck / goose neck hinges so the engine cover lifts “up and over” to clear the rear hump, as well as not interfering with the rain channel. I’ll probably make these out of fibreglass, similar to what Jim did on his panel.

    The one area I’m not clear on is the easiest way to calculate the shape to get the “up and over” geometry right. I’m sure there is clever software out there to figure it out, or other methods……..any ideas / suggestions gratefully received.


    Here is a picture of a simple swan neck hinge just so you can visualise the sort of thing I’m talking about.

    Last edited by islandman; 31-07-2021 at 09:46 AM.

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