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Thread: 1st Nova & the unregistered one

  1. #1261
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    Quote Originally Posted by islandman View Post
    Whilst Kit Cars are not allowed on the road in Singapore I’m currently investigating the option of a temporary import scheme to bring it here for “restoration purposes”. So it will never be on the road, but may give me the opportunity to work on it in a warmer climate, which is essential as I don’t have a garage, just a car port here.

    lets see........I’m still figuring out the import / export challenges to Ensure I can get it back to the Uk without an IVA etc...
    Rent a cheap garage / workshop in Malaysia and work on it there not as convenient as the home car port but a lot closer than the UK

    Dirk

  2. #1262
    Quote Originally Posted by Dirk View Post
    Rent a cheap garage / workshop in Malaysia and work on it there not as convenient as the home car port but a lot closer than the UK

    Dirk
    Lets just say Malaysia isn't the same as Singapore......Singapore has to advertise "Low crime doesn't mean no crime" just to remind people it does exist. In Malaysia if the power goes off in your house it normally means someone has nicked the Electric companies cables. I wouldn't trust it in a garage in Malaysia as I'd never see the car again, its totally crime ridden there

  3. #1263
    ***Euro-Nova Supporter*** Peter's Avatar
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    My first experience in Spain was about 2 weeks in after arrival at the camp site, I was working on my DAF van outside on the side of the road, put my tool box down at the rear, walked to the front and back and the box had gone, no one in sight of course .

    They will steal anything that's not bolted down and many carry an adjustable wrench, There is no way I will park the SS in an open parking space underground like I do my car.
    The opinions expressed in my posts may not be made in a sound mind and should be taken in the spirit intended, Jack Daniels is fine.
    Some people see things as they are and ask why? I dream things that never were and ask, why not?” JFK
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  4. #1264
    I was going to wait till I finished this part before posting, but I’m at a bit of a crossroads as I popped it from the mold and not sure I like it.

    When I did my blue Nova with the Alfa engine I wanted to change the engine cover, so I made a panel with a “hump” to add some style to an otherwise flat surface. I also added a lid with rain channels to keep the engine dry.



    So when I fitted a Subaru 2.0L naturally aspirated engine and gearbox to my second Nova I needed a larger engine cover opening to allow for access to the air intake at the rear of the engine, as well as giving a bit more space overall around the engine. So I cut a larger opening into the body for overall access and checked for clearance on top of the engine for a flat panel over the top. Then transferred the measurements to a sheet so I could take it back to Singapore to build the part there.





    Once back in Singapore I transferred the template to laminated plywood to make a mold (I didn’t want the hassle of making a buck first, that might not have been the best idea in hindsight).



    I also wanted to add some style and a bit of extra height at the rear for the air intake. So I went about making the “hump”, but this time made it bigger than on the blue Nova with wider side slops with a view to adding some wire mesh vents along those sides to allow heat out, but also make it look more interesting. As I went along with the process my kids got involved and I ended up making it wider than I first intended…..

    I used making this part to experiment with a few things like different materials (epoxy resin rather than polyester, bi-directional cloth for strength in some layers and core mat for torsional rigidity of the engine lid). I also routed out the cut lines by approximately 2mm so that they would leave an raised impression in the final gel coat to guide the trimming the edges and cutting the engine hatch lid hole later.



    When I put the gel coat down and went back to check it when it got the green stage I found in certain places it had reacted with something and bubbled up (maybe filler, spray or something). Very annoying as trying to strip it all off at this point would likely damage the mold and I was fed up with sanding so I decided to battle on and continue with the fibreglass anyway. The pigment I used for the gel coat ended up being a bit too translucent also, which was a bit of a pain as it didn’t provide a uniform finish later on with different colours showing through, although it will eventually be painted.



    Some bidirectional cloth for one of the layers was added, as well as the core mat to stop any flexing in the engine cover




    I finished off with twill cloth on the final layer, with some black pigment to give a nicer looking underside to the engine cover when in the open position



    It was a bugger to pop the part from the mold, and the mold didn’t survive very well with much of the filler sticking to the part. I didn’t use enough wax and PVA….grrrr……

    Here it is cleaned up and most of the filler scrapped off the part. As you can see the areas where the gel coat reacted need fixing / filling. The cut lines for the hatch came out well and will guide me later making the opening. I’ve also not fully trimmed to the outside cut-lines to allow for some final trimming when I place the part on the car ready for bonding to the main body.



    I’m not fully sold on the overall look of the hump, I think I went too wide with it, as it looks proportionally wrong to me. Maybe once I’ve put the side vents and mesh it may change the overall look…..let’s see.



    I’m also not sure what I will do to fix the areas where the gel coat reacted leaving a pitted surface, I may try using some gel coat as a filler on the top side then sand it down, but I think you need to cover gel coat to get it to cure fully? (does anyone know)



    I’ve still got to cut the hatch, make the rain channels to bond under the hatch opening and cut the vent holes then fill with embossed mesh matched to the holes. Once that is done I’ll decide whether or not the hump is too big, and if it is I’ll start all over again on version 2……sigh……
    Last edited by islandman; 17-07-2021 at 03:30 AM.

  5. #1265
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    It looks good to me, it is difficult to see if the proportions are right without it being on the car. You can get a surface gel coat its called top coat

    https://www.cfsnet.co.uk/acatalog/CF...pcoat_149.html

    Dirk

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  6. #1266
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    Quote Originally Posted by islandman View Post
    [...]

    I’m also not sure what I will do to fix the areas where the gel coat reacted leaving a pitted surface, I may try using some gel coat as a filler on the top side then sand it down, but I think you need to cover gel coat to get it to cure fully? (does anyone know)

    [...]
    Can't believe I am advising you on this subject, but yeah oxygen will prevent the outer surface of Gel coat from fully curing (it will be tacky) BUT you can still stick to the plan and fill the imperfections with Gel coat and have it sit proud of the panel surface but then sand & polish it down removing the tacky layer.

    I repaired my seats in this way using this kit:
    Gelcoat Repair Kit 1 - Black - East Coast Fibreglass Supplies (ecfibreglasssupplies.co.uk)
    and this instruction video https://youtu.be/6_Y1UavwhzI

    This Vid is also interesting: The Difference between Gelcoat and Flowcoat (Topcoat) - YouTube

    I like this lifting of the rear deck mod, the Elam's probably should have done this on the Mk2 decades ago (IIRC the Aussie/Purvis guys did something similar). I think it looks better and is more practical because of the access and ventilation it allows. this is looking good Dave keep plugging away.

  7. #1267
    Quote Originally Posted by Dirk View Post
    You can get a surface gel coat its called top coat

    https://www.cfsnet.co.uk/acatalog/CF...pcoat_149.html

    Dirk

    Quote Originally Posted by steve View Post
    Thanks for the inputs guys, I’m not sure I can get these products here, but I will likely try using ordinary gel coat (as I have some) and place some plastic peel ply over the top to remove the oxygen which hopefully allows it to harden, then sand it back. That way I can add in the same pigment also just for a consistent finish before I paint it.

    I think I’ve decided to make a second version anyway, with a differently proportioned hump. I’ll take both versions once done back to the UK and see which I prefer when sitting on the car before bonding it back to the main body

  8. #1268
    ***Euro-Nova Supporter*** Peter's Avatar
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    So, you are going for the full cover like the SS? I had to put drainage tubes in the low point of the body to stop rain overflowing onto the engine.rear camera_zps7cqwmy9e.jpg
    Last edited by Peter; 17-07-2021 at 02:02 PM.
    The opinions expressed in my posts may not be made in a sound mind and should be taken in the spirit intended, Jack Daniels is fine.
    Some people see things as they are and ask why? I dream things that never were and ask, why not?” JFK
    Genuine and an original, "Grumpy old mechanic".

    http://ukhozi.page.tl

  9. #1269
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    David try filling with standard gel then spray with pva to seal off the oxygen which you can wash of when the gel goes hard
    Mike

  10. #1270
    Quote Originally Posted by Mikemrb View Post
    David try filling with standard gel then spray with pva to seal off the oxygen which you can wash of when the gel goes hard
    Mike
    That is worth a try, I'll experiment with different covering materials over the next week

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