Looking very tidy. I used a 5mm perspex for the rear (outer) window, again cut to a home-brew cardboard template by the shop. Think about using a tinted glass/perspex window; Why? Lots of tall 4x4 cars have high mounted headlights, that can dazzle you through the rear view mirror, even on dipped beam. A 'tint' will take the edge off.
Keep the updates coming.
My Build Pics: https://www.dropbox.com/sh/t4vj51udn...Beo_60GFa?dl=0
Thanks Steve. I'm not sure I can use anything that is DOT approved safety glass, but I do like the tint suggestion. California is notorious for the 4x4's and idiots who put brighter bulbs in their headlights without a cutoff.
Hi Nick. That's a very clever solution compared to making a fully enclosed 'tunnel' as per the original. You've done an excellent job.
Have you decided how the new inner window frame will attach to the bodywork?
Thanks! I try to be clever... "try" LOL
I might just go with the original tunnel attachment idea and screw it to the body so I can remove it if I need to get to the fuel cell for any reason. I'll put a rubber or foam gasket between the part and the body to seal out noise, moisture and smells.
I've been working on the outside tunnel and the engine cover the last week.
First night of lay-up. 1 layer of 2" wide cloth and another 2-3 layers of 1.5 oz chopmat.
No picture of the next day with another 3-4 layers of chopmat, but here's one of the part finally popped from the buck.
With a cut line inked out. It's about 1/2 an inch.
And the disassembled buck.
Engine cover - mine's cr@p, doesn't fit well and I don't care for the looks. Starting something new. We'll see how well it goes, but for now I'm here. There's a good heavy application of PVA on the body itself, so the fiberglass should pop right off. Would come off easier if I waxed it too but I was overly anxious to start.
I'm wondering if bonding the new outside tunnel piece to the body is a good idea. Any thoughts from you lads on the Pro's and Con's?
Last edited by Nic; 06-06-2019 at 10:47 PM.
I guess its a personal preference thing.Originally Posted by Nic
Is there any reason for it to be removed once its in place.
I guess if its bonded in place it would strengthen the body a little in that area. plus it would seal any possible chance of air leaks if you bond it in place.
I think I finally have the inner and outer tunnels finished. I need to find a local place to cut glass for me though. I checked California vehicle code and you have to have "safety glazing" in all the windows.
Here are the inner and out together. The inner tunnel is the larger one.
The rear tunnel just sitting in place.
The view from the inner tunnel out the back.
I think I'm going to get some threaded insert for these and finish them with some nice stainless cap hex head bolts.
Nic,
I take it from the size of the flanges that you plan to bond the glass to the window frames rather than fixing with rubber seals? I think it you use seals you could have less of a flange and more glass space for visibility?
I haven't decided just yet if i'm going to bond or use seals. I left the flanges 1/2" to 3/4" so I have some options to play with. I'm wondering if I have enough material thickness for using seals though. That section is about 1/8". I suppose if I compare that to the thickness steel usually is, I have enough thickness, if not too much.
I have a few things to share today after a busy weekend and a busy week of ordering supplies.
First up, I ordered from McMaster-Carr a foam rubber seal for the side windows at 3/4" wide and 17/32" tall. 3/4" wide is about a 1/16" too wide and shows from the inside of the car. I think I'll order the 3/8" wide instead for the final fitting. However the 17/32" seems to be the right amount to seal when pulled tight. I ordered 10 feet and 8 seems to be enough, as I have a little over 2 feet left. I started it at the front of the window and ran it around counter clock and finished at the front again. Because of the tight corner at the front, I thought this might be the best place to start and end the run. It will have to be trimmed to have the ends meet up nice and pretty like, but once that's done I think some rubber cement would work great to seal up the cuts. The top back of the window where then 2nd tightest curve is might also need some creative notching and rubber cementing in order to fit and seal adequately.
The other, larger project is making a new engine cover. Mine was too large and poorly cut and I just didn't like it.
Step one - cover the engine with a really cheap towel then clean the flange then apply a very liberal coating of PVA release film and about 6 layers of CSM and fiberglass tape.
Step two - Find a form I liked for the top of the form and support it with some wooden dowels. More added after this picture was taken.
The height of the cover compared to the rear lines.
The space available for the air-filter.
Pull and secure stretchy material over the shape, super glue around the perimeter and temporary clamps underneath. Paint on some resin. Yep, there are some dry spots I tended to later. I let that sit over Saturday night.
Sunday I removed the clamps and reinforced the edges from underneath with 2 layers of CSM. And then I ran out of resin
After it set up a bit, a little tacky but the glass isn't moving, I set it back on the car to see how it will end up looking.
Again from the back. Nice low profile.
I'll get more layer inside and probably 4-6 layers on the outside before I start with body filler. Then lots of sanding and more body filler and finally make a 2 piece buck of it and pull a finished part. Brett, this is all your fault by the way.The finished part will have fresh air slots cut into it with grills behind for a hopefully finished look. I still need to figure out the hinge.
Last edited by Nic; 17-06-2019 at 05:51 PM.
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