Page 136 of 137 FirstFirst ... 3686126134135136137 LastLast
Results 1,351 to 1,360 of 1364

Thread: Nic's Sterling CCC #416

  1. #1351
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Concord, Ca
    Posts
    1,390
    Hi Brett,

    If you have time, sure. I haven't made any additional progress on the engine lid due to other life commitments.
    Thanks,

    Nic.
    http://s93.photobucket.com/albums/l61/quikniq/
    CCC Sterling # 416

  2. #1352
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Concord, Ca
    Posts
    1,390
    Good Morning (California time) Everyone!

    I tackled bleeding the brakes this weekend. Man, what a pain in the arse that was! I bought a vacuum bleeder from Harbor Freight and modified it slightly. It supposed to connect to your air compressor and it then blows across and opening in a chamber creating a vacuum in the chamber that's supposed to draw the fluid through the system. It worked a lot better when I plugged the blow across outlet and connected my vacuum pump to it instead. But still, I had to constant move back and forth between the brake and the reservoir to keep filling it. For the first 30 minutes I managed to just pull a bunch of air through the lines because I couldn't tell the res was empty.

    I have it mostly bled, but I think I'll have to enlist someones help to pump-n-hold for me. While I had the wheels off I did some double checking of bolts, thankfully! Several were very lose including the lower shock mount on both front sides. I had also noticed my steering wheel slipping as I turned it. Apparently I never tightened the clamp just before the rag joint. I double checked as many bolts as I could reach with the wheels off. I pretty sure I need to tighten the bolts that hold the front beam.

    Oh! and I ordered a check valve for my top hydraulics. That should arrive this week. I hope everyone enjoyed the holiday weekend. Happy belated 4th to us lot here in the US.
    Thanks,

    Nic.
    http://s93.photobucket.com/albums/l61/quikniq/
    CCC Sterling # 416

  3. #1353
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Concord, Ca
    Posts
    1,390
    The check valve arrived today. It's about twice the size I expected it to be. It's about 5.5" wide, 3" tall and 1.75" thick.
    Hopefully I can get it plumbed into the system this weekend and I can have a functional hydraulic top!
    Thanks,

    Nic.
    http://s93.photobucket.com/albums/l61/quikniq/
    CCC Sterling # 416

  4. #1354
    Senior Member Phill's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Livingston (Scotland)
    Posts
    1,170
    Hi Nic - what does the check valve do?
    "The most beautiful kit car in the world - Motor"

    http://stores.lulu.com/rightsigns


  5. #1355
    Quote Originally Posted by Phill View Post
    Hi Nic - what does the check valve do?
    "The brake booster is the check valve. When the brake booster has air trapped inside of itself, the check valve works to extract the air by sucking it out of there. This prevents the air from accessing the brake master cylinder. If air were to get into the cylinder, you could have air bubbles in the brake lines. Then your braking performance would be greatly diminished. A check valve is the link between the brake booster and the vacuum hose. It is what keeps these braking components functioning properly so that your brakes function properly when you step on the brake pedal."

    The opinions expressed in my posts may not be made in a sound mind and should be taken in the spirit intended, Jack Daniels is fine.
    Some people see things as they are and ask why? I dream things that never were and ask, why not?” JFK

    http://ukhozi.page.tl

  6. #1356
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Concord, Ca
    Posts
    1,390
    This is what I bought - https://www.baileyhydraulics.com/Loc...PT-Type-Double

    Simply, it keeps the top up when it's open and down when it's shut. My top motor doesn't have the internal lock valves like some models do.


    Or, more specifically From the website:
    The D-601 Lock Valve is designed to lock a cylinder or part of a SPECIFICATIONScircuit while a directional control valve is in the neutral position,specifically for applications where directional control valve leakagecould adversely affect the performance of the system. In addition,this lock valve also has built in integral relief's for thermal or excess pressure shocks on the locked part of a circuit.With the directional control valve in the neutral position, flow fromboth ends of a cylinder is locked by the D-601 Lock Valve. Whenthe directional control valve is activated, flow is directed to oneside of the valve unseating the ball check on that side. This allows pilot pressure to open the poppet on the opposite side of thevalve and allow flow to return to tank. The pilot pressure requiredto unlock the load is approximately 20% of the difference betweenthe internal relief setting and the load induced pressure.
    Thanks,

    Nic.
    http://s93.photobucket.com/albums/l61/quikniq/
    CCC Sterling # 416

  7. #1357
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Concord, Ca
    Posts
    1,390
    I started plumbing the new check valve last night. Made a mess of course when I disconnected the lines from the pump and cylinders. That's what rags, 409 and soap are for, right?

    Here's what I have so far. The pump connects to the 2 lines at the bottom and exits to the ram at the top. The T's will connect to lines that run to the cylinders through the body in the cylinder pockets. Hopefully running the lines this way will keep the boot more tidy.



    I posted a question to the Hydraulics section about how "we" typically run the hydraulic lines through the body and to the cylinders. I'd love to see how everyone does it.
    Thanks,

    Nic.
    http://s93.photobucket.com/albums/l61/quikniq/
    CCC Sterling # 416

  8. #1358
    "Traditionally", from the factory manual, the pumps would be mounted under the rear window on the engine side of the bulkhead. Lines would run through the side pods to the rams. In your case, you'll need to have access to that pressure relief valve, so position is critical. Take it from someone who had a valve up under the dash next to the pump (near impossible to contort to activate) and a valve right on the bulkhead behind the seats (easy-peasy).

    The green/black car had the pump behind the driver's seat under a false floor; lines were run to the relief valve, then through the bulkhead to the rams. Wasn't pretty, but it worked. The red car had the pump mounted up under the dash on the passenger side. Made for running the lines extremely easy, but the relief valve was part of the pump assembly.. and was all but impossible to reach from the driver seat.

  9. #1359
    Maybe try a bit of lateral thinking. Put the relief valve where ever it fits best and makes the hydraulic lines neat based on the pump location. Then run a separate cable pull that is connected to the relief handle and suitable brace point to ensure it operates when the cable is pulled Think along the lines or remote heater valves etc..

  10. #1360
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Concord, Ca
    Posts
    1,390
    Got it all piped and plumbed in on Friday night, and now the pump motor isn't working.

    1 step forward, 2 steps back.
    Thanks,

    Nic.
    http://s93.photobucket.com/albums/l61/quikniq/
    CCC Sterling # 416

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •