Page 133 of 133 FirstFirst ... 3383123131132133
Results 1,321 to 1,329 of 1329

Thread: Nic's Sterling CCC #416

  1. #1321
    ***Euro-Nova Supporter***
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    London
    Posts
    833
    Blog Entries
    1
    Looking very tidy. I used a 5mm perspex for the rear (outer) window, again cut to a home-brew cardboard template by the shop. Think about using a tinted glass/perspex window; Why? Lots of tall 4x4 cars have high mounted headlights, that can dazzle you through the rear view mirror, even on dipped beam. A 'tint' will take the edge off.
    Keep the updates coming.

  2. #1322
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Concord, Ca
    Posts
    1,362
    Thanks Steve. I'm not sure I can use anything that is DOT approved safety glass, but I do like the tint suggestion. California is notorious for the 4x4's and idiots who put brighter bulbs in their headlights without a cutoff.
    Thanks,

    Nic.
    http://s93.photobucket.com/albums/l61/quikniq/
    CCC Sterling # 416

  3. #1323
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Guildford, Surrey, England
    Posts
    974
    Hi Nick. That's a very clever solution compared to making a fully enclosed 'tunnel' as per the original. You've done an excellent job.

    Have you decided how the new inner window frame will attach to the bodywork?

  4. #1324
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Concord, Ca
    Posts
    1,362
    Thanks! I try to be clever... "try" LOL

    I might just go with the original tunnel attachment idea and screw it to the body so I can remove it if I need to get to the fuel cell for any reason. I'll put a rubber or foam gasket between the part and the body to seal out noise, moisture and smells.
    Thanks,

    Nic.
    http://s93.photobucket.com/albums/l61/quikniq/
    CCC Sterling # 416

  5. #1325
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Concord, Ca
    Posts
    1,362
    I've been working on the outside tunnel and the engine cover the last week.

    First night of lay-up. 1 layer of 2" wide cloth and another 2-3 layers of 1.5 oz chopmat.



    No picture of the next day with another 3-4 layers of chopmat, but here's one of the part finally popped from the buck.


    With a cut line inked out. It's about 1/2 an inch.


    And the disassembled buck.



    Engine cover - mine's cr@p, doesn't fit well and I don't care for the looks. Starting something new. We'll see how well it goes, but for now I'm here. There's a good heavy application of PVA on the body itself, so the fiberglass should pop right off. Would come off easier if I waxed it too but I was overly anxious to start.



    I'm wondering if bonding the new outside tunnel piece to the body is a good idea. Any thoughts from you lads on the Pro's and Con's?
    Last edited by Nic; 06-06-2019 at 10:47 PM.
    Thanks,

    Nic.
    http://s93.photobucket.com/albums/l61/quikniq/
    CCC Sterling # 416

  6. #1326
    Senior Member Brett's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2018
    Location
    Las Vegas,NV USA
    Posts
    127
    Quote Originally Posted by Nic View Post


    I'm wondering if bonding the new outside tunnel piece to the body is a good idea. Any thoughts from you lads on the Pro's and Con's?
    I guess its a personal preference thing.
    Is there any reason for it to be removed once its in place.

    I guess if its bonded in place it would strengthen the body a little in that area. plus it would seal any possible chance of air leaks if you bond it in place.

  7. #1327
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Concord, Ca
    Posts
    1,362
    I think I finally have the inner and outer tunnels finished. I need to find a local place to cut glass for me though. I checked California vehicle code and you have to have "safety glazing" in all the windows.

    Here are the inner and out together. The inner tunnel is the larger one.



    The rear tunnel just sitting in place.



    The view from the inner tunnel out the back.


    I think I'm going to get some threaded insert for these and finish them with some nice stainless cap hex head bolts.
    Thanks,

    Nic.
    http://s93.photobucket.com/albums/l61/quikniq/
    CCC Sterling # 416

  8. #1328
    Nic,

    I take it from the size of the flanges that you plan to bond the glass to the window frames rather than fixing with rubber seals? I think it you use seals you could have less of a flange and more glass space for visibility?

  9. #1329
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Concord, Ca
    Posts
    1,362
    I haven't decided just yet if i'm going to bond or use seals. I left the flanges 1/2" to 3/4" so I have some options to play with. I'm wondering if I have enough material thickness for using seals though. That section is about 1/8". I suppose if I compare that to the thickness steel usually is, I have enough thickness, if not too much.
    Thanks,

    Nic.
    http://s93.photobucket.com/albums/l61/quikniq/
    CCC Sterling # 416

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •