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Thread: Nic's Sterling CCC #416

  1. #21
    Quote Originally Posted by Nic
    I put my rear brakes together last night with my new parts. However, they seem to not move real smoothly. I followed the pictures/diagrams in the Bentley manual, but it all seems really tight. For instance, the large spring that connects at the bottom of the brake pads, I had to PULL the pads into place with lots of force. Is this normal? Anyone have this problem? Anyone have their pictures of their drums innards?

    Make sure the star adjusters are all the way in before seating the pads. And make sure the pads are going the right way - the bottom of the pad mounts are angled to follow the piston angle. If they are on the wrong side or upside down, the drum won't go on. Ask me how I know Once everything is together, if the drum is tough to get on (mine was, even after adjusting everything to it's smallest setting), I wound up sanding some of the trailing pad away just enough to get the drum on. Not the best solution, but depending where you got the parts, import parts aren't the most perfect fitting items.

    Also, the bump stops that bolt around the spring plate, are those really necessary? Has anyone not used them? Mine are all dirty/nasty/rusty and new ones are $25 a piece. I COULD clean them by hand and repaint them, but I don't wanna. Or pay $40 to have them sand blasted.

    Bump stops? Wha' cho' talkin about? The covers over the ends of the plates that cover the bushing? If it's those, yes, you need those to keep tension on the bushing, which should be there. Clean 'em up with a wire wheel and paint them. They are a bit*ch to get back on once you've torn the rear suspension apart - just be careful not to strip the holes!

    Oh, and HOW do you get those rubber bumpers off? I pulled and twisted and glared at them in a menacing way ... nothing.

    Pull HARD upwards, or lever them off with a pry bar. Nothing holds them on but a metal stud up through the middle with a mushroom head on it. The stop snaps down over that mushroom. As they age, they shrink, so it can be tough. Cut 'em off and get new ones.

    HELP!

  2. #22
    Senior Member
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    Thanks Rick.

    The bump stop bracket thingy is what Im trying to pull the bump stop off of. It slips over the end of the spring plate bolts to the axel tube.
    This thing:
    http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp ... %2D189%2DA

    Do we need to keep THAT?
    Thanks,

    Nic.
    http://s93.photobucket.com/albums/l61/quikniq/
    CCC Sterling # 416

  3. #23
    Ah. Well, no you don't particularly need them. A lot of the dune buggy guys that actually go off-road will take at least the snubbers off or cut them down to gain more wheel travel. On a Beetle, with passengers in the back seat the suspension is under load, so there's more chance for the suspension to go under full compression, hence the snubber. For the most part, on a Sterling you'll never have the axle under a load so great that it'll actually press the snubber up against it's stop, but if for some reason your shock breaks, it'll keep your suspension from crashing.

    Bottom line: up to you. Personally, if it ain't broke, don't fix it. Wire brush them clean and paint 'em, and put new snubbers back on.

    Rick

  4. #24
    Senior Member
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    I figured it wasn't too big of a deal to NOT have them on, but just in case there was something I was missing, I wanted to check.
    I'll give the wire wheel a go at it and see what I come up with. I'm mostly worried about the rust and crud inside where the wheel wont reach. I suppose skinny fingers and sandpaper might work.
    Hmm, need to get some skinny fingers I guess.
    Thanks,

    Nic.
    http://s93.photobucket.com/albums/l61/quikniq/
    CCC Sterling # 416

  5. #25
    Or you c9ould go to Pep Boys or someplace like that and get one of those spot sandblasters for $40.00. You can run those off a pretty small compressor, though it's likely 'pull trigger, blast, wait....pull trigger' kind of thing. Those mounts are pretty beefy, so a little surface rust ain't gonna hurt. I've found a Dremel with one of those sandpaper flap disks that fits them works pretty good.

    Rick

  6. #26
    I lobbed 1/2" off the top of mine years ago and they still haven't come in contact with the stop, so I guess on a light weight car they are not essential.



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  7. #27
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    Ordered more parts (Thanks Dad for the Christmas money), Rear struts, master cylinder and something else I cant remember at the moment. Im getting close to being able to put the body back on so naturally Im starting to think about stuff. This is an idea I had for an arm rest, with storage. The reason for the arm rest to be split like that in the front is to allow the parking brake handle to be pulled. The shifter and the brake are going to be moved back. Nothing is to scale, but just a rough idea.




    Thoughts?
    Thanks,

    Nic.
    http://s93.photobucket.com/albums/l61/quikniq/
    CCC Sterling # 416

  8. #28
    Nic,

    I ended up building mine out of 2 layers plywood glued together (to retain the curved sections). Its not finished or trimmed so you will need to use a little imagination for the finished article.

    Once completed it will have 2 storage compartments (rear and front), plus a top open storage area that will probably house my interior light also.

    The seats have been narrowed and also need re-trimming (hence the extra material bunched up)


  9. #29
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    I can see where you are going with it, it'll look good when you have it finished.

    On a side note, I put the wheels back on today and put the chassis back on the ground for the first time in several months. The rear suspension is not right, sitting too low I think and not level on both sides. Which brings me to a question. I'm pretty sure you can get different "spring" rates with the torsion bars for the rear. I have 2 sets and I might have mixed them accidentally. The 2 that arent in the car have different markings on the ends, other than L and R. Anyone know what the different markings are for?
    Thanks,

    Nic.
    http://s93.photobucket.com/albums/l61/quikniq/
    CCC Sterling # 416

  10. #30
    Senior Member bushboy's Avatar
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    Nic,
    a quick google came up with thispage that has a std torsion bar table on it , may be of some use to you.

    http://www.vwspeedshop.com/store/produc ... 333&page=1

    bushboy
    "Always do what you are afraid to do"
    "I can accept failure, but I can't accept not trying"

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