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Thread: Dirk's Avante

  1. #241
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    As I said in Dave's thread the paint and filler is all off and the body has been washed down. I'm going to let it dry out for a week and hopefully next weekend Ill get the top coat on.





    Dirk

  2. #242
    Now that is one pampered body, it's gets its own heaters when tucked up at night

    how to the mold making go using candle wax on the light covers ?

  3. #243
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    Quote Originally Posted by islandman View Post
    how to the mold making go using candle wax on the light covers ?
    The Wax worked really well filling the seams around the flanges and saved a lot of work. I had forgotten I hadn't posted any pics.

    I started making a frame around the existing hole as the sides were not parallel to each other.



    I then used balsa inside the frame to make the plug this is it with a coat of G4 to seal it.



    I cant find a pic of the mould but this is the mould with a layer of gel coat.



    I then put on a couple of layers of tissue



    I then attached the original frame and glassed it in. This is the first Louver fresh out of the mould.



    After a bit of trimming fitted to the car, at this point there was still a bit of tweaking to be done.



    Dirk

  4. #244
    Thanks for sharing Dirk, looking good

  5. #245
    So do you always put tissue down as your first layer on the gel coat? Is this to make it easier to confirm to tighter angles and ensure no air voids before laying the thicker glass fibre. I had thought about trying this but wasn't sure doing it on my newly made mold was the best time to experiment. but having said that I do have some narrow deep recesses that may benefit from this approach if it works?

  6. #246
    Senior Member bushboy's Avatar
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    Coming along very nicely Dirk.

    Like the work you do.

    I am also going the route of replacing the paint on the Eureka with a new topcoat. I will be taking it right back to the original yellow gel coat before applying Black top coat. I know I'll be facing a lot of sanding & polishing, but hope to achieve a nice shiny and straight finish.

    Bushboy
    "Always do what you are afraid to do"
    "I can accept failure, but I can't accept not trying"

  7. #247
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    Quote Originally Posted by islandman View Post
    So do you always put tissue down as your first layer on the gel coat? Is this to make it easier to confirm to tighter angles and ensure no air voids before laying the thicker glass fibre. I had thought about trying this but wasn't sure doing it on my newly made mold was the best time to experiment. but having said that I do have some narrow deep recesses that may benefit from this approach if it works?
    Yes tissue is much easier to make conform and I had 2 small 90 deg angles to deal with, by the time I had 2 layers of tissue on those angles were not as sharp so it was then easier to put the mat over.

    Dirk

  8. #248
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    Quote Originally Posted by bushboy View Post
    Coming along very nicely Dirk.

    Like the work you do.

    I am also going the route of replacing the paint on the Eureka with a new topcoat. I will be taking it right back to the original yellow gel coat before applying Black top coat. I know I'll be facing a lot of sanding & polishing, but hope to achieve a nice shiny and straight finish.

    Bushboy
    I was thinking about doing my top coat in the final colour but I wasn't sure how good a finish I would get? or how many of the pin holes it will fill, I guess Ill find out over the next couple of weeks.

    Dirk

  9. #249
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    The topcoat went on about 3 weeks ago but wasn’t as successfulas I was hoping I had guessed it would take about 3Kg to cover the car so Imeasured out 3 separate 1Kg pots I was hoping to use a roller to put it on sohad 6 rollers set out of 2 different piles and I had 3 2 inch brushes for any awkwardparts, 3 roller trays and a bucket of acetone to throw used parts in. My makeshift spray booth was set to 20 degrees.
    The rollers left a very stippled effect and looked like Iwas trying to artex the car! So I switched to the brush, but only being 2inch wasn’tthe best size for doing the whole body but I was committed. I only got on abouthalf of the first Kg before it went off. On the second Kg I reduced the catalystfrom 2% to 1.5% I still only managed to use about three quarters of that mix,so on the last mix I used just under 1.5% catalyst and I did manage to use thefull Kg. The brush marks were awful!
    This is the car finished.

    It took me the beast part of 70 hours to get the body flatagain, I broke through to the original gel coat in lots of places, but even worseI also broke through to some of the raw fiberglass in places probably makingthe whole exercise pointless!!! Thetopcoat did fill a lot of the small pin holes but there were several hundredthat still needed filling. I have never liked using knifing putty so I decidedto go with Dolphin Glaze what a fantastic product it is self-levelling and canbe applied with a brush I used a very fine modelling brush to dab a small amount into each pin hole.U-pol doesn’t recommend it on vertical panels but it seemed to work OK for me.The car looked like it had measles by time I had finished. Once the filledholes were sanded I power washed the body again and moved it back into thespray booth, I’m not sure whether it was the power washing or the fact that thelight was much better but I found about another 200 pin holes!
    This is it back in the booth in its urban camouflage colour scheme.

    I am hoping to get some colour on it over the weekend.

    Dirk

  10. #250
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    Blimey
    That seems like a massive amount of work for very little reward !
    The joys of fibreglass............

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