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Thread: Pumps and Electrics

  1. #21
    My limit switch set up is similar to Mick's, I used micro switches also, industrial ones that have tight tolerances for activation so you can adjust it precisely. The one that cuts the pump when the canopy is raised is in the recess where the hydraulic rams are mounted. It activates when the top to the ram cylinder presses against it as it gets to the top of the stroke with the canopy fully open. The other one for when its lowered pushes on a rod that protrudes from body and makes contact with the lower bar of the hinge. Beneath the rod is another limit switch that adjusts based on a plate with a screw thread.

    I do like Mick's idea though of the limit switch on the upper hinge arms inside the canopy mounting recess so may have a look to see if its worth changing mine.

    Another reason I had the additional switch which actually has three positions (auto / manual / Off ) is so that at shows I can leave the roof up and leave the switch in the off position so even if someone fiddles with the toggle switches nothing will happen
    Last edited by islandman; 05-11-2013 at 02:51 AM.

  2. #22
    Quote Originally Posted by MicksRedNova View Post
    To prevent the accidental opening whilst driving syndrome the remote is locked out when ignition is switched on.
    Mick

    Mick I kind of like this idea of yours, how did you go about disabling the remote when the ignition was on? Via some form of normally closed relay that opens breaking the power circuit to the remote unit when the ignition is on?

  3. #23
    Rather than use 'ignition on' why not use the 12v signal to the ignition light from the alternator to open a relay so it only cuts the feed to the remote receiver when the engine is running?



    The opinions expressed in my posts may not be made in a sound mind and should be taken in the spirit intended, Jack Daniels is fine.
    Some people see things as they are and ask why? I dream things that never were and ask, why not?” JFK

    http://ukhozi.page.tl

  4. #24
    Quote Originally Posted by Peter View Post
    Rather than use 'ignition on' why not use the 12v signal to the ignition light from the alternator to open a relay so it only cuts the feed to the remote receiver when the engine is running?
    Also a good idea!

  5. #25
    Senior Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by Peter View Post
    Rather than use 'ignition on' why not use the 12v signal to the ignition light from the alternator to open a relay so it only cuts the feed to the remote receiver when the engine is running?
    Sorry no this would not work.
    Your alternator light works because it has +12v to the light from the battery and earths through the alternator. when the alternator starts to charge it puts +12v on the line from the bulb. The bulb now has +12v on either side of it so does not glow. This is why the bulb can sometimes be dim or flicker when the charging system has a fault.
    If you connect a relay to either side of the bulb the relay will always stay open.

    I'm going to add another relay to the canopy circuit using the normally close contact of the relay. When the ignition is turned on the relay will break the circuit to the romote control module.

    I think I've attached a circuit diagram.....not techy so who knows!!

    Steve
    Attached Files Attached Files

  6. #26
    I use the alternator signal on a few circuits including the LED display lock out when driving so I know it works on relays. The bulbs does see 0v (not earth) and +15 (ignition) so lights up, and +15 and +12v alternator (12v+12v=0v) and goes out but the 12v from the alternator is viable for relay signal.



    The opinions expressed in my posts may not be made in a sound mind and should be taken in the spirit intended, Jack Daniels is fine.
    Some people see things as they are and ask why? I dream things that never were and ask, why not?” JFK

    http://ukhozi.page.tl

  7. #27
    Thanks for all the help guys, Steve is working on my car!
    Never be afraid to stand out from the crowd!

  8. #28
    Just out of interest, how does this product look?

    Flowfit Hydraulic Power Pack

    They do single action versions for a bit less money, but my head is not quite with it today as to what the Smith Minipack I would be replacing was in the first place
    Never be afraid to stand out from the crowd!

  9. #29
    oooo……now that does look good. It certainly ticking some of the right boxes :-
    1) Up to 200 bar (better than the Hyadrapack and comparable to the smiths minipack)
    2) Built in electrics for up and down (so its reversible)
    3) Flow control
    Wiring diagrams are a bit too small to read but clearly has an up and down button on the yellow box.
    but I’m no expert however a few things ring alarm bells for me also…..when I compare with the Hydrapack offering below I think that this may be way too fast as it would raise the canopy in about 2 seconds at 2.1cc/rev, and 1.6KW….err….some big cables and fuses needed there!:-

    The 250w Hydrapackpack :

    12vDC 250w motor
    02 pump (0,25cc/rev) Gives extension of 25 seconds
    0.5 lpm
    140 bar pressure
    45 amps draw.

    Now the 500wHydrapack:

    12vdc 500w Motor
    04 pump (0.45cc/rev) Gives extension 8.5 seconds
    1.1 lpm
    140 bar pressure
    50 amps draw

  10. #30
    Just looked at the Hydrapack homepage and the picture banner looks very similar to the one on your link

    http://www.hydraproducts.co.uk/

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