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Thread: Phill's Nova Project finally begins

  1. #971
    ***Euro-Nova Supporter*** BlueNova's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Phill View Post
    .... I would appreciate any thoughts as to what the issue is that's causing the rough running and knocking noise?
    That's great news Phill

    ... and you're taking the right approach by commiting to a full rebuild at a leisurely pace since your Nova's already on the road.

    As for the noise, it sounds more like a top end rattle (especially when the engine is reved a bit) rather than the heavier knocking sound of the bottom end. However, if it was the top end I'd expect the engine to be running rougher.

    It's difficult to make out from the video if it's smoke or condensation coming from the exhaust. Anyway, given that you're planning a full rebuild you should be able to find out what's wrong and put it right.

    Really looking forward to following your rebuild

    Alistair

  2. #972
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    Can't help with the knocking noise but good to hear about the Type 4 lump

  3. #973
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    Hi Phil is that a hydrolic tappet version of that engine, it's difficult to diagnose from the video but could be a hydrolic tappet, doubt it'll be a thrust issue as the noise doesn't go when the revs increase
    Mike

  4. #974
    Doesn't sound too healthy! I remember my type4 sounding much smoother than the type1, and it was great until the early Bosch computer (it was the injection engine) decided it didn't like living in the nasty plastic Nova! Noise wise it sounds quite 'endy', though not quite deep enough for the big ends - I can see a dramatic investagative strip-down on the cards before too long! (My cam was quite worn when I got in there many years ago) - how easy are spares for type4s?
    Last edited by Alzax3; 23-02-2021 at 12:52 PM.
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  5. #975
    Senior Member Phill's Avatar
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    Not sure if this version of the engine has hydraulic tappets - it's a 72/73 engine? My own thoughts are that the sound is the same as you might hear if a spark plug was missing, so perhaps something as simple as a missing plug (though you would expect the seller to spot that) or a damaged valve. A simple compression test should give a good indication of where to look.


    I don't think it's likely to be bottom end as these engines have a reputation for durability in that area. So a top end re-build is hopefully all that would be required. Spares are available though more expensive and less ubiquitous than type 1 spares
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  6. #976
    Senior Member Phill's Avatar
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    This is the engine in question. 1700cc out of a camper van. Fitted with a weber carb.

    I'm hoping to get hold of a transaxle bellhousing so that I can spin the engine up while it's out of the car to do a compression test and try to diagnose where the noise is coming from before I take it apart. Anyone have a spare?

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  7. #977
    Senior Member Brett's Avatar
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    Personally I think that would be a waste of time and money. You know the engine has issues, just get into it and find out whats causing the knocking and oil burning.

    However if you want to do more research on the condition of the motor before getting into it you could do a leak down test. That will cost you nothing but your time.

    That will let you know the condition of the rings and valves.

    Putting a depth gauge in a spark plug hole and bring the piston to top dead center you can see how long the piston stays there before you detect movement. Compare that to the other cylinders and you can see if all the pistons have the same measurements before movement is detected. If one piston stays longer at top dead center or if it doesn't rest at the same spot in the cylinder than the other pistons there's a good chance you may have a bad rod or crank.

    Edit:
    Another test with a depth gauge(or a top dead center gauge) is to bring a piston up in the cylinder till you get a reading on the depth gauge then back the piston off and see if the gauge detects the piston movement. If it doesn't there is excess tolerances in the rod
    Last edited by Brett; 01-03-2021 at 12:33 PM.

  8. #978
    ***Euro-Nova Supporter*** Peter's Avatar
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    You know there is a problem, so just go for it, if you can buy or borrow an engine stand it will make light work of ¡stripping it down,
    All VW engines a simple, it's mostly the peripherals that make things complicated, when you are at the case level it goes very easy.
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  9. #979
    Senior Member Phill's Avatar
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    When I rebuilt my Beetle engine I had it in and out of the car three times before I had it working properly. For that reason alone I think it would be useful to be able to test compressions and even start the engine before installing it back in the car
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  10. #980
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    Quote Originally Posted by Phill View Post
    When I rebuilt my Beetle engine I had it in and out of the car three times before I had it working properly. For that reason alone I think it would be useful to be able to test compressions and even start the engine before installing it back in the car
    I echo what Peter has said.
    You know you are going to strip it anyway, and a top end noise will not always show in a compression test.
    To start, just take the rocker covers off , turn it by hand and see if you have good movement on the valves.
    You never know, it could be a loose tappet !!

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