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Thread: Phill's Nova Project finally begins

  1. #1

    Phill's Nova Project finally begins

    It's now some 7 years on from when I bought my car. Since then it's been rested up outside at the side of my house awaiting it's turn for restoration.

    Well at last the time has come and today I washed 7 years of grime off the car before bringing it into my garage to start work proper.

    First job will be to remove the bodyshell to assess the condition of the floorpan and running gear before compiling a list of parts required. (The car has no engine, interior or wiring)

    Meanwhile here are some pictures of the car taken today showing it's current state before I begin the strip down








    "The most beautiful kit car in the world - Motor"

    http://stores.lulu.com/rightsigns

  2. #2
    Senior Member
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    That's some garage!!


  3. #3
    Well as expected, progress is slow. Started dismantling the car today. I'd forgotten how hard it was to reach some of the bolts in the side skirts. Took me a good hour or so just to remove one side skirt and found I couldn't undo some of the bolts on the other side. Experience has taught me to call it a day once you come up against a difficult problem that you just can't overcome at that moment in time. Going back to it a day or so later usualy finds the problem is easily overcome. Oh and a good soaking with wd40 usually helps too.
    Last edited by Phill; 12-10-2014 at 07:33 PM.
    "The most beautiful kit car in the world - Motor"

    http://stores.lulu.com/rightsigns

  4. #4
    I have now completed the removal of all of the body panels and I have separated the shell from the floorpan


    I decided to suspend the shell from the garage ceiling freeing up space to work on the floor pan



    At last I could access the floorpan in it's entirety



    The frame head and turret tops are in great condition



    But the floorpan itself will need some work to rectify the rust that has taken hold



    MY biggest concern at the moment is the non standard pedal assembly which is in ruins. The framehead and tunnel has been modified to accept a bugpack pedal box with the old standard holes all welded up preventing me from easily reverting back to standard pedals



    The bugpack pedal assembly which is probably beyond repair



    Meanwhile the rest of the bodypanels and stored up against the wall

    Last edited by Phill; 18-10-2014 at 03:47 PM.
    "The most beautiful kit car in the world - Motor"

    http://stores.lulu.com/rightsigns

  5. #5
    That looks like a standard replacement of the 'Napoleon's hat' job.
    http://tinyurl.com/qzwtehz

    For 31.20 plus post it's really not worth mucking about with patches. The tunnel hole can be opened up again and the two threads restored, I should imaged all the tubes etc are still inside the tunnel.

    Try stripping down the BugPack assemble and dipping the alloy parts in battery acid for a bit and then wash off, BugPack do an overhaul kit or if you get get the sizes etc there is a firm in the UK that will make up a set for you.

    Alternativly if you revert to std, cross member a Locost triple cylinder assemble WILL fit poking just over the cross member., like wot I got.
    Last edited by Peter; 18-10-2014 at 03:59 PM.
    The opinions expressed in my posts may not be made in a sound mind and should be taken in the spirit intended, Jack Daniels is fine.
    Some people see things as they are and ask why? I dream things that never were and ask, why not?” JFK

    http://ukhozi.page.tl

  6. #6
    Thanks Peter

    There are quite a few parts missing from my car - I'll need to compile a list. Meanwhile I have noticed there is no anti roll bar on the front. When I built my last car I included this in the build but I am wondering if because the car is so much lighter at the front should the anti roll bar be left off anyway?

    Can anyone advise?
    "The most beautiful kit car in the world - Motor"

    http://stores.lulu.com/rightsigns

  7. #7
    Senior Member bushboy's Avatar
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    G'day Phil,

    I also have a picture or two of the Eureka body "floating" in the air with the chassis below it. Found it very useful when I had to keep taking the body on & off during the V6 install.

    I did have a roll bar on the front of the Eureka but took it off quite a few years ago. Cant say I noticed any difference. Have done over 40,000 miles now. It works for me not having one.

    Bushboy
    "Always do what you are afraid to do"
    "I can accept failure, but I can't accept not trying"

  8. #8
    Senior Member MicksRedNova's Avatar
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    Phill
    Some good progress there. I also did the suspended body approach but used trestles instead of straps to the roof. I have anti-roll bar fitted but intend to take it off over winter to compare handling without it. I would try to return to standard (modified) Beetle pedals as they are a tried and tested method.

    Mick
    Club Nova Member (F-036)

    A BMW X3 driver just added to the Nova jobs I need to do!

    Follow my Lazarus project at: http://www.micksrednova.co.uk/index.html
    which may take more than four days!!

  9. #9
    Senior Member
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    Why not just replace the pedal box with a new one like
    http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Kit-Car-Ca...d=716262156058

    Would be much simpler plus you have the bonus of adjusting the front/rear brake bias.

    Steve

  10. #10
    āts wot I said init?
    Slight difference needed as yours would be RHD but very do-able and you don't need to chop the chassis.
    Conversion to roller pedal makes it VERY smooth, (2"skateboard wheel)
    Attached Images Attached Images
    The opinions expressed in my posts may not be made in a sound mind and should be taken in the spirit intended, Jack Daniels is fine.
    Some people see things as they are and ask why? I dream things that never were and ask, why not?” JFK

    http://ukhozi.page.tl

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