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Thread: Phill's Nova Project finally begins

  1. #781
    Senior Member Phill's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brett View Post
    With a multi meter you can check/test the primary and secondary windings of the coil and comparing those readings with the factory specifications you can determine if the coil is good or bad.
    Would it be definitive if the coil is only breaking down after 20 minutes or so (i.e the fault is intermittent)?
    "The most beautiful kit car in the world - Motor"

    http://stores.lulu.com/rightsigns


  2. #782
    Quote Originally Posted by Brett View Post
    With a multi meter you can check/test the primary and secondary windings of the coil and comparing those readings with the factory specifications you can determine if the coil is good or bad. Or you can go buy one and hope that will solve the problem.

    Just showing how handy a multi meter can be Roger. Not trying to start a war here.
    My feathers were not ruffled, I was agreeing with you Brett. That's why I posted the link on how to test the coil. Its always good to learn how to test things rather then just throwing parts at them.

  3. #783
    Senior Member Phill's Avatar
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    Latest update on this Saga - yesterday evening I drove the car for a few miles without breaking down and ran the engine at fast idle for a good 15 minutes or so once I had returned to check the car wasn't about to pack in again.

    I'm still not convinced that a multimeter test would provide an answer if the fault is intermittent? I would need to be testing the coil at the time when the engine won't start to establish if it was the coil or not?

    What is odd about the flickering dashboard lights is that I still get this happening even when I have the ignition turned off, the dynamo disconnected, but with the engine running powered from a jump lead from my Capri's battery to the coil - thereby ensuring no electrical power was getting to the dash lights. Yet still they flicker? My conclusion is that the low power LEDs are being activated by interference possibly generated by the sparks from the plugs, points or the coil itself? I suspect if I fit regular bulbs in the dash instead of LED's this wouldn't be an issue. Other than that I am at a loss to explain it.
    "The most beautiful kit car in the world - Motor"

    http://stores.lulu.com/rightsigns


  4. #784
    Quote Originally Posted by Phill View Post
    Latest update on this Saga - yesterday evening I drove the car for a few miles without breaking down and ran the engine at fast idle for a good 15 minutes or so once I had returned to check the car wasn't about to pack in again.

    I'm still not convinced that a multimeter test would provide an answer if the fault is intermittent? I would need to be testing the coil at the time when the engine won't start to establish if it was the coil or not?

    What is odd about the flickering dashboard lights is that I still get this happening even when I have the ignition turned off, the dynamo disconnected, but with the engine running powered from a jump lead from my Capri's battery to the coil - thereby ensuring no electrical power was getting to the dash lights. Yet still they flicker? My conclusion is that the low power LEDs are being activated by interference possibly generated by the sparks from the plugs, points or the coil itself? I suspect if I fit regular bulbs in the dash instead of LED's this wouldn't be an issue. Other than that I am at a loss to explain it.
    Time to bite the bullet Phil and go for the alternator

  5. #785
    ***Euro-Nova Supporter***
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    And electronic ignition ?
    Alternator swap is straightforward, and I am sure you can buy them where they still look like a dynamo......
    Worth considering.......

  6. #786
    I've never regretted fitting an alternator, but I have had to replace it once a couple of years ago after it fritzed for no obvious reason.....
    It's a 50 year old car and everything works, just not always at the same time.......and it's probably about to get jealous!
    *Donate to Euro-Nova today!*

  7. #787
    Senior Member MicksRedNova's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Phill View Post
    My conclusion is that the low power LEDs are being activated by interference possibly generated by the sparks from the plugs, points or the coil itself? I suspect if I fit regular bulbs in the dash instead of LED's this wouldn't be an issue. Other than that I am at a loss to explain it.
    Hey Phill
    Are you using a LED as your generator warning light? If so you need to replace it with a 12v bulb as the Dynamo circuit depends on the current through the bulb to work correctly.
    I had LEDS on my dash for everything except the Gen light and never had a problem with flickering. However, I did have problems with the Tacho feed from the coil causing flickering when I first fitted electronic ignition.

    Mick
    Club Nova Member (F-036)

    MicksRedNova2 may take as long as the original!!

  8. #788
    Senior Member Phill's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MicksRedNova View Post
    Hey Phill
    Are you using a LED as your generator warning light? If so you need to replace it with a 12v bulb as the Dynamo circuit depends on the current through the bulb to work correctly.
    I had LEDS on my dash for everything except the Gen light and never had a problem with flickering. However, I did have problems with the Tacho feed from the coil causing flickering when I first fitted electronic ignition.

    Mick

    Thanks Mick - Yes my warning light is an LED - I have just ordered a 2W conventional warning light instead to replace it. Hopefully this will resolve it
    "The most beautiful kit car in the world - Motor"

    http://stores.lulu.com/rightsigns


  9. #789
    ***Euro-Nova Supporter*** Spacenut's Avatar
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    Hi Phil - my dash uses LED warning lights as well, you can use an LED as a generator warning light as long as you put a 2W wirewound resistor in series with it, so that it replicates the load of a filament bulb.

    On the intermittent coil front, this did happen to me with my old Baccaruda. I would be driving along and for no apparent reason the engine would die. At which point I would also lose brake assistance and power steering

    The cause was down to internal arcing within the coil. Ignition coils are configured as an auto-transformer, with the primary and secondary coil windings sharing a common ground. The windings are insulated by thin oil that is used to fill the canister. Ignition coils are often placed on top of the hot engine, usually at funny angles and the oil seals can break down over time and allow the oil to leak out. Also if the oil is allowed to get very hot it can break down. What happens then is that a flashover occurs between the primary and secondary windings, leaving a trail of carbonised oil which then dissipates, until the next time a carbon particle floats between the primary and secondary windings, and the whole process starts again.

    In the Baccaruda this flashover was enough to stop the sparks getting to more than one cylinder, and the engine stalled. A couple of minutes later, it would fire up again like nothing had happened!

    Changing the coil was the answer. They are not expensive, but make sure you get the right one for your application - the primary coil impedance dictates how much current is pulled through your points, and outwardly identical coils can have very different coil resistance.

    Intermittent faults are always the worst!

    Good luck,

    Lauren
    only Pythagoras can save me now!

  10. #790
    Used to have problems with HT coils breaking down on the 260cc buggys, always when hot, leave to cool for a few minuets and off it went again, for a bit. In the end we carried a spare, that cured it. the fine wire inside would break and OK when cool but when it got hot and expanded it lost connection. Chinese crap.

    Currently have a Kenrod Tanco 125 with same symptoms, runs for a couple of minuets then conkes out, new coil to come.
    Last edited by Peter; 01-09-2019 at 11:47 AM.



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