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Thread: Phill's Nova Project finally begins

  1. #581
    Quote Originally Posted by Dirk View Post
    A couple of points on you adaptor does the engine cover still fit after lifting the carb higher? and is there a possibility of carb icing in colder weather as it is further away from the exhaust heat returns? I guess a good run (max Power) over winter will tell.

    Dirk
    Yes the engine cover still fits but you raise an interesting point about the exhaust heat returns as I had not considered this. How hot does the inlet manifold get? I'm wondering is there a possibility it could get hot enough to cause the adapter to melt? So far with the limited time I had it fitted on the engine (though it did get up to temperature) there are no signs of it melting but I'm wondering what sustained running would do?
    "The most beautiful kit car in the world - Motor"

    http://stores.lulu.com/rightsigns


  2. #582
    Is it PLA or ABS? 180 degrees against 230 degrees C (ish) don't think either are going to be reached in the engine bay without causing other problems - the block would rarely be too hot to touch. I suppose if your exhaust was routed very close it might radiate enough to cause problems, but then the fan belt would probably not survive either! Not sure of the long term temperature effects regards creep etc - most automotive structural plastic components have re-inforcement (glass powder and the like) to extend their resistant properties...
    It's a 50 year old car and everything works, just not always at the same time.......and it's probably about to get jealous!
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  3. #583
    Senior Member bushboy's Avatar
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    A metal hole saw, drill, some flat steel & a length of tube take it to your friendly TIG welder & your continuity & melting scenarios will be non existent.

    But very clever use of 3D printing & like Dirk, would love to have one to play with at times.

    Bushboy
    "Always do what you are afraid to do"
    "I can accept failure, but I can't accept not trying"

  4. #584
    I agree, although the 3D manifold is very laudable and I also would love to learn 3D printing, with a decent printer under 200 now, I think it would be best to have it steel.

    The opinions expressed in my posts may not be made in a sound mind and should be taken in the spirit intended, Jack Daniels is fine.
    Some people see things as they are and ask why? I dream things that never were and ask, why not?” JFK

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  5. #585
    Replaced the leaking hyadraulic ram with one of the Rams I got from Steve last year. I had already removed the side pod in order to begin the wiring so now had access to the pivot pin at the bottom of the ram. To avoid having to remove the canopy I looped a couple of ratchet straps around an overhead beam and used them to support the canopy when the roof was open while I removed the ram. With the new ram in place there is no sign of oil weeping but the roof still doesn't mantain it's negative pressure for any length of time when closed. This could be air in the system which should make it's own way out after a few days. Or I wondered if the fluid I was using (Halfords Trolley Jack oil) could be responsible? The Smiths pump is designed to use VG22 oil whereas the Halfords oil is VG32 and I am now wondering if the wrong specification hydraulic fluid is the reason why my canopy doesn't hold its negative pressure?
    "The most beautiful kit car in the world - Motor"

    http://stores.lulu.com/rightsigns


  6. #586
    Senior Member
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    I always used Halfords jack oil and never had a problem, more likely the seals in the pump.

    Dirk

  7. #587
    Finally made a start on the wiring. The main section running from the front compartment to the rear was set out on plywood with nails at each junction where the loom separates into its various destinations.

    This was the wiring laid out. Each cable was labelled at each end and in the middle using a numbering system based on the Nova modifications manual
    IMG_8502[1].jpg

    The loom was then taped together and fed into split tubing
    IMG_8506[1].jpg

    The split tubing is a dream making it very easy to feed the wires in and route them along the length of the car. And as an added bonus it makes adding extra wiring at a later date so much easier.

    In the front compartment the wires terminate at the two junction boxes (one will be an ignition live box with a live feed controlled from a switch inside the car, the other is a straightforward fusebox.

    A smaller diameter of split tubing was used to feed the loom from its junction where it will enter into the dashboard area to the front compartment
    IMG_8507[1].jpg

    At the rear I will be installing a trailer socket where the wiring will feed the rear panel lights. The other junction will feed into the engine compartment

    IMG_8508[1].jpg

    So far so good. Next step is to build the rear panel harness and connect it to the harness made up today using a trailer socket then I will be able to test the rear lighting to make sure it's all going to work as it should.
    Last edited by Phill; 27-12-2018 at 07:09 PM.
    "The most beautiful kit car in the world - Motor"

    http://stores.lulu.com/rightsigns


  8. #588
    Senior Member BlueNova's Avatar
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    Great progress Phill. Those tables in your workshop provide an excellent area for laying out the loom. You're getting ever closer to being road legal

    Alistair

  9. #589
    Well done Phil back in the game ;-)

    Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

  10. #590
    ***Euro-Nova Supporter***
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    Nice update. My daily driver also uses split conduit, I assume that it also prevents water build up in low-points along the length(?). Good reminder about the Mods manual I will take a look at that.

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