There are no chips anywhere however there is one frustration with the bottom corners.Originally Posted by islandman
You can see a tiny bit of blue which is the bottom corner of the canopy. This angle is slightly different to the angle painted on the black border for the screen.
Now I know that is being super fussy, but I can see it so will try to cover it up.
Nice update, car looking great.
Yeah, there will be a shakedown process, the springs might settle after the first serious outing.
Well done on what you have acheived.
Sam made the screen more vertical
Blooming hell, I have been playing adjusting the washer jets tonight, it either hits the seal or flies over the roof !!😀
That's interesting. Nova Nigel noted the same issue when he fitted his banded windscreen (ADD Nova). When I provided the obscuration banding dimensions to Pilkingtons, I used my own Elam Mk1 canopy as a guide. It seems the pads on my canopy differ from those of both ADD and Sam Cobley variants...
I presume the screen aperture has an unfinished flange all the way round when it comes fresh out of the mould, so the shape of the pads must be determined at the factory when the flange is trimmed. I assumed that a standard template was used for this operation, but clearly there are some variations.
Nigel managed to get a bit black paint into the gap between the screen and the A pillar, hopefully you can do the same.
Lauren
only Pythagoras can save me now!
Been there, done that. I tried replacing my original washer jet with a new one as it was clogged and I had the same problem you now face, seal or over the roof!
So I reverted back to the original Steve installed which sits on a higher mounting pedestal to allow it to clear the seal as per photo. I then just unclogged it with a safety pin, problem solved
something like this will solve the problem, I'm sure there must be other better looking ones out there though
http://www.ebay.com/itm/WINDSHIELD-W...-/170797756042
or even ones like this
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HEADLIGHT-...-/252040119651
Last edited by islandman; 20-04-2017 at 12:48 PM.
So mot WAS tomorrow.
Checking over car after 2 tiny runs. Movement on nsf wheel bearing.
No matter how much I tighten it I still end up with movement.
So have had to order new parts and hope I can get another slot at the end of the week, which will mean no test time !!!!
How much movement? Remember that there should always be a bit of play in the front wheel bearings, if there was no play at all the bearing would overheat and wear out very quickly.
I think the factory says up to 0.12mm axial play measured on the hub with a DTI, at the wheel rim that will be considerably more. Maybe your osf bearing needs to be loosened off a bit?
I would put the car in for the MoT tomorrow and see what happens.
Lauren
only Pythagoras can save me now!
Thanks for the advice Lauren but as an ex mechanic I know that there is far too much and I would fail it.
I have a tiny amount on the osf as per the book and I just want to make sure it is right.
There would also be no point in doing the steering geometry with how it is.
Parts are enoute and on leave all week to get it sorted.
A word of advice to all on MOT timing. It wasn't intentional for me but one year I missed taking my car to the show as it failed its MOT the week before the show leaving no time to fix the issues. So I went to the show without the car and came back from it, fixed the fail points and MOT'd it 10 days after the show.
The upshot was that I would always have a valid MOT at showtime with no last minute rush to fix unexpected things that come up. The same would have applied this year if I had actually managed to make my annual pilgrimage. So to reduce stress get fresh MOT after the show even if its not due, it gives you plenty of time for the unexpected going forward
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