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Thread: Scottish Nova - time for a rebuild!

  1. #901
    ***Euro-Nova Supporter*** BlueNova's Avatar
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    Thanks for all the suggestions folks. I've rigged up a ratchet pulley from the garage roof and have tightened it sufficiently to take up the initial slack movement of the body. It's attached to a metal bar inside the nose to spread the load. I've also propped the leading edge with a small scissor jack, using a block of wood and a duster to avoid damaging the paintwork. I'll gradually increase the tension with the ratchet over time, and check to see if I'm making any further progress ...

    I'd be grateful if a few of you could measure the minimum clearance you have under your front undertray. This will give me an idea of what I'm aiming for so that I can decide whether or not more drastic action is required

    In the meantime, I found a piece of 5mm x 50mm metal that I thought might do for a cantilevered 'forklift style' support but was surprised to find that it wasn't as rigid as I'd thought. So I've started sketching out an alternative form of support consisting of 2 pieces of metal triangulated out from each pair of bolts on the front beam. Whilst these will encroach into the boot space, they shouldn't be too intrusive because they'll just be on either side of the battery



    When Phill was over at the weekend he suggested I should look out the bonnet, rear panel, etc to get it looking more like a Nova so today I dug out the rear panel and made some fibre glass repairs to the inside and popped it back in place .... I'd accidentally knelt against it whilst storing it away and cracked it in 3 places!



    Last edited by BlueNova; 01-09-2021 at 07:24 PM.

  2. #902
    ***Euro-Nova Supporter*** Spacenut's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Buffy View Post
    Heat won’t do the job and move the fibreglass, especially from a fan heater.

    Imagine the cars in hot climates if they had been in the sun all day !😂
    Although painful the only way to move the fibreglass upwards is cutting and back filling with strengthening bars/ rods
    I disagree - heat and constant pressure can make a big difference. You can even reshape a windscreen using this method, which is useful if the canopy has distorted over time, due to heat and gravity. I don't think it will necessarily take months either. I would be measuring the time in hours rather than days or months. Just be ready to insert your chosen method of support immediately once the nose has regained its composure!

    Lauren
    only Pythagoras can save me now!

  3. #903
    Senior Member Phill's Avatar
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    My other thought (apart from adding a 5th wheel) was to use an old scissors jack inserted between the frame head and the rear wall of the front compartment and to gradually turn the screw to push the rear wall forward thereby pushing the nose upwards. You could perhaps even fabricate some brackets to attach it and spread the load making the scissor Jack a permanent feature?

    Then if you want to be really adventurous you could raise and lower the nose at will A-La Concorde..

    20210901_205237.jpg
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  4. #904

    Hey

    Quote Originally Posted by Phill View Post
    My other thought (apart from adding a 5th wheel) was to use an old scissors jack inserted between the frame head and the rear wall of the front compartment and to gradually turn the screw to push the rear wall forward thereby pushing the nose upwards. You could perhaps even fabricate some brackets to attach it and spread the load making the scissor Jack a permanent feature?

    Then if you want to be really adventurous you could raise and lower the nose at will A-La Concorde..

    20210901_205237.jpg
    Think mine might be a bit droopy too

  5. #905
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    Quote Originally Posted by Buffy View Post
    Heat won’t do the job and move the fibreglass, especially from a fan heater.

    Imagine the cars in hot climates if they had been in the sun all day !😂
    Although painful the only way to move the fibreglass upwards is cutting and back filling with strengthening bars/ rods

    A fan heater probably would not achieve the temperature required but heat and pressure will reshape fiberglass. I posted photos in my build of the windscreen pillar with about a 8mm dip in it, I heated it with a hot air gun and used a jack with a length of 3 x 2 to push it out it worked a treat. That said it was localized heat in a small area. I think we all remember David's experience of using a fan heater to try and shape glass

    Dirk

  6. #906
    Quote Originally Posted by Dirk View Post
    I think we all remember David's experience of using a fan heater to try and shape glass

    Dirk

    To be fair, it did reshape the lower half, but uneven cooling on the inner and outer layers did crack one layer

  7. #907
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    Quote Originally Posted by BlueNova View Post
    When Phill was over at the weekend he suggested I should look out the bonnet, rear panel, etc to get it looking more like a Nova so today I dug out the rear panel and made some fibre glass repairs to the inside and popped it back in place .... I'd accidentally knelt against it whilst storing it away and cracked it in 3 places!
    If you are digging out the bonnet, it would be worth fitting it to your droop snoot to see how much difference there is - if raising the droop back up, it needs to match the edges of the bonnet?

  8. #908
    ***Euro-Nova Supporter*** BlueNova's Avatar
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    Been enjoying some metalwork lately ... the steering column support is now fitted and I've trial fitted the dash on top







    I've also fabricated a couple of flopper stoppers to fix my droopy snoot. These have been trial fitted to the front beam bolts, but will be painted and then finally bolted in position later this week.

    You'll also see I've wrapped the body with clingfilm to protect the paintwork as I'm walking in and out of the garage with tools, bits of metal, etc


  9. #909
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    Looking good mate, top work.
    Are they captive bolts in the 'Fork lift' brackets?

  10. #910
    ***Euro-Nova Supporter*** BlueNova's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by steve View Post
    Looking good mate, top work.
    Are they captive bolts in the 'Fork lift' brackets?
    Thanks Steve, yes I fitted the nuts and bolts in place in the 'fork lift' brackets, welded the nuts in place and then removed the bolts

    Alistair

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