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Thread: Scottish Nova - time for a rebuild!

  1. #431
    Senior Member BlueNova's Avatar
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    Started work on the rear axles today. First task was to remove the 2 No 36mm rear axle nuts. I knew they'd be hard to remove, but even with the wheels chocked and a 900mm breaker bar I just couldn't make any progress. Bushboy had recommended using a slugging spanner but I thought I'd use the tools I had first before spending more ... although, you can never have enough tools!

    Anyway, I decided to have a go (gently) with my axle grinder and got them both off quickly without any damage to the axle threads. The drums came off reasonably easily, and then I removed the backing plates with the shoes, etc, attached. It's clear that the oil from the transaxle that feeds the wheel bearings via the axle tubes has been getting past the oil seals and into the brakes. I've got new seals etc ready for the rebuild.

    20190707_142542.jpg 20190707_144814.jpg

    So, 2 steps forward .... and yes, you've guessed it, then I took a step back

    I decided to remove the rusty old rear torsion bar cover plates to replace them with shiny new chrome ones (and new bushes). The nearside came off relatively easily but I sheared 2 bolts on the offside so will have to get the drill out ... again!

    20190707_151723.jpg

    At that point Valerie said she wanted us to go shopping for our hols, so decided to leave drilling out the bolts for another day!

  2. #432
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    The axle nuts are a nightmare to undo once the axle is off the car, I have done it once but it wasn't easy. as for your snapped bolts I think even once you get them out the threaded hole will probably be beyond use and you may find you need to drill over size and re-tap for bigger bolts, I have had to do a few of mine that way.

    Dirk

  3. #433
    Senior Member BlueNova's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dirk View Post
    The axle nuts are a nightmare to undo once the axle is off the car, I have done it once but it wasn't easy. as for your snapped bolts I think even once you get them out the threaded hole will probably be beyond use and you may find you need to drill over size and re-tap for bigger bolts, I have had to do a few of mine that way.

    Dirk
    Yes Dirk, I refitted the transaxle to the chassis to help me get the nuts off ... but no luck. Anyway, I've ordered a few things online tonight including a couple of axle nuts and split pins.

    I've not used my tap & die set for several years so it'll be a good excuse to dig it out again. No point in having tools if we don't use them!

  4. #434
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    check your new axle nuts when you get them, I've had to order several as the tapping in the nut has not been square with the inner face of the nut! I can't remember where they came from; may have been VW heritage as I ordered a lot of parts from there - I'll have to check my receipts!

  5. #435
    Senior Member BlueNova's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MartinB View Post
    check your new axle nuts when you get them, I've had to order several as the tapping in the nut has not been square with the inner face of the nut! I can't remember where they came from; may have been VW heritage as I ordered a lot of parts from there - I'll have to check my receipts!
    Thanks for the tip Martin, will do. I ordered mine from Just Kampers, so hope they'll be ok.
    Cheers, Alistair

  6. #436
    Senior Member Phill's Avatar
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    I've had my best result removing broken studs using left handed drill bits (not to be confused with easyout stud extractors). These are actual drill bits that cut in reverse. Start off small then gradually enlarge the hole using larger drill bits. If you are lucky the action will unwind what's left of the stud without having to tap a new thread (I know this sounds unlikely but believe me it really does ). I managed to remove all but one broken manifold stud from my Capris head a few years ago using this method.

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  7. #437
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    >> ... tap & die set ...

    Now you're talking mate Nice update!

  8. #438
    Senior Member BlueNova's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Phill View Post
    I've had my best result removing broken studs using left handed drill bits (not to be confused with easyout stud extractors). .......
    Thanks Phill, very helpful. For the price it's definitely worth a try. I'll order a set and let you know how I get on. Yes, I tried the easy out extractors for my broken frame head bolt and wasn't impressed!

    Cheers, Alistair

  9. #439
    Quote Originally Posted by BlueNova View Post
    Thanks Phill, very helpful. For the price it's definitely worth a try. I'll order a set and let you know how I get on. Yes, I tried the easy out extractors for my broken frame head bolt and wasn't impressed!

    Cheers, Alistair
    Problem with 'easy outs' is they snap like carrots and are impossible to get out or drill, takes hours sometime.

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  10. #440
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    Hello mate, With regard to these 2 seized-in bolts, and the similar problems you had with the seized bolt on the frame head, is this caused by galling (cold welding)
    or simply by rust causing the metal to expand and seizing the bolt in-situ?

    I wasn't planning to do anything special on my build - other than applying a small amount of grease to all bolt threads before tightening. Should I be doing more?

    https://www.boltdepot.com/fastener-i...d-galling.aspx

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