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Thread: Scottish Nova - time for a rebuild!

  1. #441
    Senior Member BlueNova's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by steve View Post
    Hello mate, With regard to these 2 seized-in bolts, and the similar problems you had with the seized bolt on the frame head, is this caused by galling (cold welding)
    or simply by rust causing the metal to expand and seizing the bolt in-situ?

    I wasn't planning to do anything special on my build - other than applying a small amount of grease to all bolt threads before tightening. Should I be doing more?

    https://www.boltdepot.com/fastener-i...d-galling.aspx
    Hi Steve,

    That's an interesting link. However, I suspect my bolt threads were simply rusted solid (see how rusty the torsion arm spring plate covers are in my previous post!) so when I tried to remove the bolts I simply applied too much torque. I think you can see what looks like torsional failure from this photo 20190710_200602.jpg .... I didn't bother doing any preparation such as using WD40 first, or even applying heat or pressure clockwise/anti-clockwise several times. I think in future I'll adopt a more considered approach. Of course I should have done after the 1st one broke!!

    I'm assembling everything 'loose' (ie not to the required torque settings) and only once I'm happy will I tighten everything up. I intend to use copper ease on parts that will most likely need adjustment in future and blue araldite on anything that is at risk of vibrating loose. I had an interesting challenge on my Berlingo van in June. The track rod end ball joint failed the MOT, so I thought .... easy fix by myself! Not so, some idiot had put it on with RED araldite, so I ended up using my angle grinder in much the same way as the Nova's rear axle nuts, taking care not to damage the threads on the inner track rod.

    Alistair

  2. #442
    Senior Member Phill's Avatar
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    I would use a centre punch to mark the dead centre of the remaining stud. Then using the left handed drills I descibed earlier, drill anticlockwise using a small drill bit to make a pilot hole (Hopefully dead in the centre of the broken stud - this is important). Then carry on drilling anti clockwise using ever larger drill bits until you are nearly drilling the thread. With a bit of luck - the anticlockwise torque (along with the heat generated) when drilling will unwind what's left of the stud before you reach the point when you are having to use a drill bit that is drilling into the thread itself. If this fails you have lost nothing and will need to re-tap the thread anyway, but I think you will be pleasantly surprised.
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  3. #443
    Senior Member BlueNova's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Phill View Post
    I would use a centre punch to mark the dead centre of the remaining stud. Then using the left handed drills I descibed earlier, drill anticlockwise using a small drill bit to make a pilot hole (Hopefully dead in the centre of the broken stud - this is important). Then carry on drilling anti clockwise using ever larger drill bits until you are nearly drilling the thread. With a bit of luck - the anticlockwise torque (along with the heat generated) when drilling will unwind what's left of the stud before you reach the point when you are having to use a drill bit that is drilling into the thread itself. If this fails you have lost nothing and will need to re-tap the thread anyway, but I think you will be pleasantly surprised.
    Fear not Phill ... based on your advice I ordered a set of left handed drill bits the other night ... they're due to arrive tomorrow or Friday!

  4. #444
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    Sounds like Phil needs to come round and show you how the fix the issue !

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