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Thread: Scottish Nova - time for a rebuild!

  1. #441
    ***Euro-Nova Supporter*** BlueNova's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by steve View Post
    Hello mate, With regard to these 2 seized-in bolts, and the similar problems you had with the seized bolt on the frame head, is this caused by galling (cold welding)
    or simply by rust causing the metal to expand and seizing the bolt in-situ?

    I wasn't planning to do anything special on my build - other than applying a small amount of grease to all bolt threads before tightening. Should I be doing more?

    https://www.boltdepot.com/fastener-i...d-galling.aspx
    Hi Steve,

    That's an interesting link. However, I suspect my bolt threads were simply rusted solid (see how rusty the torsion arm spring plate covers are in my previous post!) so when I tried to remove the bolts I simply applied too much torque. I think you can see what looks like torsional failure from this photo 20190710_200602.jpg .... I didn't bother doing any preparation such as using WD40 first, or even applying heat or pressure clockwise/anti-clockwise several times. I think in future I'll adopt a more considered approach. Of course I should have done after the 1st one broke!!

    I'm assembling everything 'loose' (ie not to the required torque settings) and only once I'm happy will I tighten everything up. I intend to use copper ease on parts that will most likely need adjustment in future and blue araldite on anything that is at risk of vibrating loose. I had an interesting challenge on my Berlingo van in June. The track rod end ball joint failed the MOT, so I thought .... easy fix by myself! Not so, some idiot had put it on with RED araldite, so I ended up using my angle grinder in much the same way as the Nova's rear axle nuts, taking care not to damage the threads on the inner track rod.

    Alistair

  2. #442
    Senior Member Phill's Avatar
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    I would use a centre punch to mark the dead centre of the remaining stud. Then using the left handed drills I descibed earlier, drill anticlockwise using a small drill bit to make a pilot hole (Hopefully dead in the centre of the broken stud - this is important). Then carry on drilling anti clockwise using ever larger drill bits until you are nearly drilling the thread. With a bit of luck - the anticlockwise torque (along with the heat generated) when drilling will unwind what's left of the stud before you reach the point when you are having to use a drill bit that is drilling into the thread itself. If this fails you have lost nothing and will need to re-tap the thread anyway, but I think you will be pleasantly surprised.
    "The most beautiful kit car in the world - Motor"

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  3. #443
    ***Euro-Nova Supporter*** BlueNova's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Phill View Post
    I would use a centre punch to mark the dead centre of the remaining stud. Then using the left handed drills I descibed earlier, drill anticlockwise using a small drill bit to make a pilot hole (Hopefully dead in the centre of the broken stud - this is important). Then carry on drilling anti clockwise using ever larger drill bits until you are nearly drilling the thread. With a bit of luck - the anticlockwise torque (along with the heat generated) when drilling will unwind what's left of the stud before you reach the point when you are having to use a drill bit that is drilling into the thread itself. If this fails you have lost nothing and will need to re-tap the thread anyway, but I think you will be pleasantly surprised.
    Fear not Phill ... based on your advice I ordered a set of left handed drill bits the other night ... they're due to arrive tomorrow or Friday!

  4. #444
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    Sounds like Phil needs to come round and show you how the fix the issue !

  5. #445
    ***Euro-Nova Supporter*** BlueNova's Avatar
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    Hi all,

    Spent some more time on the transaxle this weekend. Earlier in my thread I explained how oily/dirty the underside of the transaxle was, but hereís a photo to save you skipping back. Pretty oily underneath.jpg

    It was clear that the seals at both ends of the driveshafts had all failed, so new parts were ordered. The main task this weekend was to remove the driveshaft tubes by using a puller to slide the wheel bearings off the ends of the driveshafts. Puller on driveshaft.jpg

    I was surprised to see that the driveshafts are narrow at the gearbox, and taper to become wider at the wheel bearings. Can't think of the reason for that?!? Anyway, whilst Iíd already cleaned up and sprayed most of the gearbox, the areas immediately around the driveshafts still needed work and so I taped around the shafts to prevent any grit entering the box and scraped off the worst before using a degreasing foam followed by brake cleaner spray and then painting the areas. Taped up.jpg Degreaser foam.jpg Cleaned up and painted.jpg

    The wheel bearings are still inside the driveshaft tubes, along with a bevelled spacer just inboard of the bearing which it turns out is free to rotate in a short section of the tube! A quick check online explained which way round they need to be to marry with the driveshaft, so Iíll remember to check that on re-assembly.

    Finally, I made another wee video just to show you what stage Iím at generally ....

    https://youtu.be/jwKCH0QEhQ8

    Cheers, Alistair

  6. #446
    Senior Member Phill's Avatar
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    You're making good progress Alistair. In time you will be glad you attended to all the small details and didn't rush it.
    "The most beautiful kit car in the world - Motor"

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  7. #447
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    Thatís a great wee video!
    Good idea,for you get a real sense of how things are going, but also how we work on our cars ....

  8. #448
    ***Euro-Nova Supporter*** BlueNova's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Phill View Post
    You're making good progress Alistair. In time you will be glad you attended to all the small details and didn't rush it.
    Thanks Phill. With the limited amount of time I can spend on the Nova things seem to take forever. However, I remember you advising me to break it all down into a series of wee jobs, and I'm doing my best to follow that. However, I think that my recent wee 'tangent' to indulge in my new rear wheels and tyres made me thing I was actually further on than I was!

    I'll do my best to get the transaxle finished and the wheels back on soon, so that when you can manage over here we can do a wee video of your Nova next to my 'skateboard'!

    Quote Originally Posted by Buffy View Post
    Thatís a great wee video!
    Good idea,for you get a real sense of how things are going, but also how we work on our cars ....
    Thanks Mark, yes I'm following Phill's example. He's done quite a few videos, and I think I'll try to do them more often from now on. Regarding 'but also how we work on our cars' ... it's a good thing I'm only 5'5"!

    Alistair

  9. #449
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    Some nice progress and a nice vid, you say the bearings are still in the tubes (you are going to replace them though?)

    Dirk

  10. #450
    ***Euro-Nova Supporter*** BlueNova's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dirk View Post
    Some nice progress and a nice vid, you say the bearings are still in the tubes (you are going to replace them though?)

    Dirk
    Hi Dirk, I hadn't intended to because they feel smooth .... but you've got a good point. For the relatively small cost it would be sensible to replace them whilst I've got the axles in bits

    PS I'm thinking about lowering the rear suspension to help 'close the gap' above the wheels but don't know by how much yet. I'll wait until the body and engine are back in place. An important note for anyone else considering lowering their swing axle rear suspension is that there is a risk that the oil from the gearbox can't then naturally travel 'uphill' to the rear wheel bearings, so they need to monitor them and the gearbox oil level regularly!
    Last edited by BlueNova; 22-07-2019 at 10:07 PM. Reason: PS added

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