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Thread: Scottish Nova - time for a rebuild!

  1. #191
    ***Euro-Nova Supporter*** BlueNova's Avatar
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    No problem Colin.

    As a novice it took me ages to get the wire tensioner and spool clutch right. It was very frustrating, constantly having to strip the wire out and feed fresh wire through again. The main thing is to persevere and as Mick told me, ''practice, practice, practice!''

    Something I had in the back of my mind was that the 180 was quite a bit more expensive than the 'hobby' size welders, but resale values are high, so if you ever decided to sell it you won't lose much money on it. Anyway, I'm so happy with mine I'll be hanging onto it after my Nova's back on the road.

    That's great news on the Lancia engine front .... looking forward to seeing your updates.

    Cheers, Alistair

  2. #192
    Senior Member Phill's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BlueNova View Post
    Guys & Gals, I've had a great weekend! .... I now have a lovely solid chassis!!

    Attachment 2791 Attachment 2792 Attachment 2793
    Great to see you making progress Alistair. Don't forget to chisel off the standard seat runners - they're just spot welded in place and are easy to remove. Your welding looks first class. Won't be long now before you have a rolling chassis again
    "The most beautiful kit car in the world - Motor"

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  3. #193
    ***Euro-Nova Supporter*** BlueNova's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Phill View Post
    Great to see you making progress Alistair. Don't forget to chisel off the standard seat runners - they're just spot welded in place and are easy to remove. Your welding looks first class. Won't be long now before you have a rolling chassis again
    Cheers Phill. A rolling chassis would be a good time for you to come over for some more Nova chat!

  4. #194
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    Quote Originally Posted by BlueNova View Post
    The key bit of advice for me was 'tuning the dials' whilst the welder is welding, and listening for that sweet sound of sizzling bacon. This means that for each job you do, you can easily 'tune' your welder to suit.

    Alistair
    Sounds like you found what I was blathering on about earlier

  5. #195
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    Quote Originally Posted by BlueNova View Post
    Guys & Gals, I've had a great weekend! .... I now have a lovely solid chassis!!

    Attachment 2791 Attachment 2792 Attachment 2793

    OK, I've still to drop the floorpans. I'm only 5'6'', and was considering leaving the new pans as they are, but after driving Phill's Nova last week he's convinced me to do the modification.

    Anyway, I've reached a milestone and could (almost) be forgiven for having started to make ''brrmmm, brrmmm'' noises in the garage this afternoon!!

    Happy days!

    Alistair
    VERY nicely done!

  6. #196
    ***Euro-Nova Supporter*** BlueNova's Avatar
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    Tonight, after a stressful day running daughter and friends to the airport under pressure of time for their flight, then rushing back home to take her rabbit to the vet .... I managed to spend some 'me' time in the garage and started to remove the old seat runners. I say started, because whilst I got the driver's side off and also the battery clamp, I only got half way through removing the passenger's side. Whilst adjusting my position I gashed the top of my head (again!) on the underside of the Nova. Blood dripping everywhere, but I learned from the last time ... so I pressed down hard for 5 mins with a dark coloured towel to stop the bleeding. Ideally I'd just hoist the Nova's body higher in the garage to get it out of the way, but it's as high as I can get it. I guess I'll just have to start wearing a hard hat!!

    20180829_115341.jpg

    Anyway, one of the jobs I started before heading off to the airport was to drill out a broken front beam bolt. I bought a bolt extractor set of drill bits which are inserted into the hole you drill and with 'reverse' gear engaged on your drill it screws into the hole and then locks onto the old bolt so that it can (hopefully) be withdrawn.

    I managed to get a narrow drill right through the broken bolt and moved on to a slightly larger diameter drill bit. Unfortunately the bit snapped and half of it was left in the hole I'd just created. I then went through about 10 other drill bits which all broke, and this is as far as I got!! .... ie not that far at all !!

    20180829_095803.jpg

    Any advice on how to extract the broken bolt will be gratefully received! Ideally I'd like to retain the threads so that I can simply screw a new bolt in, but if I have to damage the threads then I'm happy to fit a longer bolt with a nut and washer on the rear side. One way or another I have to create a hole big enough for a new bolt!

    Thanks in advance,

    Alistair

  7. #197
    Senior Member Phill's Avatar
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    I had a similar problem when I built my first Nova. I ended up having to drill out the old machine screw and replace it with an oversize nut and bolt as you have already suggested. I would try drilling from the other side of the frame head using a standard clockwise drill bit. The advantage is you would be drilling anticlockwise when viewed from the front and this may encourage the old stud to unwind itself. If that fails, you can drill through completely and replace with an oversize nut and bolt. Have faith my friend, it will be fine. Don't let this minor setback put you off
    Last edited by Phill; 29-08-2018 at 11:08 PM.
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  8. #198
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    I did a similar thing once with a drill bit trying to get a bolt out of an engine, enlarging the hole was not an option. I got some very small diamond burrs and with a dremel drill I managed to remove enough of the bolt around the broken drill bit to be able to grab and twist it out with some fine nosed pliers. It did take several careful hours.

    Dirk

  9. #199
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    Hi Alastair,
    Tough day in the Garage ...
    You said you had drilled through the bolt with the smallest bit(?)
    Why not buy *another* set of bolt extractor bits and attack the bolt from the other side?
    Throw in some WD40 + maybe some heat into the mix.
    Any chance you could weld something (T bar or another bolt) onto the seized bolt?
    Good luck

  10. #200
    I’ve tried “Easy out” bolt extractors in the past without a single case using them resulting in success. My most recent problem was broken exhaust studs in my Alfa Engine. For that I started with a very small drill bit (2.5mm) and drilled in the centre of the nut (after using a centre punch to give me a starting point). Then once I felt I had gone deep enough, swapped to a 3.5mm, then 5mm. By the time I got to 5mm the sides of the stuck stud started to crumble and I could pull them away from the original thread with long nose plyers’. I did run a tap down the threads after though for good measure as the drill bit wasn’t totally centred and did impinge a bit on the threads on one side.

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