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Thread: Scottish Nova - time for a rebuild!

  1. #211
    ***Euro-Nova Supporter*** BlueNova's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by steve View Post
    Well done - great work!
    Is there not a *chance* to save the original thread as the hole gets wider?

    Interesting to read about the Cobalt drill bits as well - thanks
    Hi Steve,

    This weekend I tried to save the original thread as the hole got wider .... I inserted a fine hacksaw and cut through the remaining outer circle of the bolt at several points, hoping it would 'simply' fall apart. No luck! I was beginning to think that the bolt might have been 'cross threaded' because it was so tightly stuck!

    Anyway, the time came to get a larger 'drill anything' Bosch drill bit out and off I went, trying to manually keep it as close to centre as possible. I came so close but as you can see from the section of old bolt that eventually came out .... I've damaged the original socket thread so it'll need a longer bolt, nut and washer to make it secure. No worries though, I've managed to achieve a lovely shiny 12mm hole for that.

    20180907_170529.jpg 20180907_171702.jpg

    I've been looking at the various diagrams on the manuals for dimensions for the floorpan drops and am confused. I think some of the dimensions given are wrong, and it's a pain having some in inches and others in mm. I've decided to go with what seems right for me ... essentially cutting my lovely brand new floorpans 15mm from the tunnel and immediately adjacent to the lip on the outer edge.

    I've driven Phill's Mk2 Nova (with 2.5" drops) and am going to go for the same with mine. My old floorpans had 3" drops but I'm only 5'6" and I don't remember having headroom problems back in 1991.


    My question for everyone else is this ... seat options have changed since the Nova was being produced all those years ago. Have any of you found that the floor pan drops should be any different from the dimensions given in the manuals (albeit they're different!) in light of more modern options for seats?

    Cheers,

    Alistair

  2. #212
    Senior Member Phill's Avatar
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    Alistair. If you're not already aware original Elam build manual and modifications manual diagram for the drop panels has an error in one of the dimensions which makes the rear drop section too wide by a couple of inches. Some explanation here:- http://www.euro-nova.co.uk/vb/showth...Pan-Drop/page2

    Use the measurements in the revised Elams build manual page 29
    Last edited by Phill; 10-09-2018 at 08:57 AM.
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  3. #213
    ***Euro-Nova Supporter*** BlueNova's Avatar
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    Thanks Phill. I got rained off at work this afternoon so spent some time in the garage finishing the removal of the seat runners from the new pans, and cutting out the sheet metal for the floorpan drops. Still to do the rear sections and do all the bending, but I'm happy with the dimensions now.

    Seat runners off and floorpan drops cut out.jpg

    I dug out my old floorpans from behind the garage to see how they compared with the dimensions in the manual and they don't! One's longer than the other and the sloping section's are a few inches longer than those in the manual. The floorpans were dropped by the Elams who then bolted the body to the chassis for the guy I bought it from, and to be honest I'm not that impressed with their work. Anyway, onwards and upwards!

    Alistair

  4. #214
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    Hi Alistair, Nice update. Drilling through the bolt to save the thread was a long shot. You weren't far away!
    Keep plugging away on the build - and the updates coming.

  5. #215
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    Quote Originally Posted by BlueNova View Post

    My question for everyone else is this ... seat options have changed since the Nova was being produced all those years ago. Have any of you found that the floor pan drops should be any different from the dimensions given in the manuals (albeit they're different!) in light of more modern options for seats?

    Cheers,

    Alistair
    You have a Mk2 Car, with 2" more headroom, I think you'll be fine with a 2.5" drop.
    There are other variables to consider e.g. a proper sprung/cushioned seat (MX5) vs fibreglass 'bucket' seat where your bum is millimeters off the floorpan.
    And the rake of the seat, personally I prefer a more upright seat position.
    I am having a drop of just over 4" on my Mk1 (less headroom) car with fibreglass ultra low seats (I haven't found them yet). I'm 6"1.
    Make your floordrops as wide as you can, as getting seats in there can be a squeeze.

  6. #216
    Quote Originally Posted by steve View Post
    .I am having a drop of just over 4" on my Mk1 (less headroom) car with fibreglass ultra low seats (I haven't found them yet). .
    Steve, check out the Intatrim Stoneleigh seat (yes same name as the show), I tried it in my Nova at Stoneleigh this year. Its narrow enough at the base for our cars with deep floor pan drops, yet has a wide comfortable back support. As far as rake goes my plan is to make brackets to tilt the seats up at the front to the desired angle (which also improves under leg support). They can make the base padding as thick or thin as you want and trimming is only down to your imagination (and wallet!)

    http://www.intatrim.co.uk/stoneleigh.html

  7. #217
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    Quote Originally Posted by islandman View Post
    Steve, check out the Intatrim Stoneleigh seat

    http://www.intatrim.co.uk/stoneleigh.html
    Steve, I got my seats from Intatrim. Really nice people and will basically do any design you want.
    Regards
    Buffy

  8. #218
    ***Euro-Nova Supporter*** BlueNova's Avatar
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    These seats look great David! .... and Mark, it's encouraging to see from the photos of your Nova that they fit even with your slightly widened central tunnel.

    Steve, these seats might address your concern about making the floorpan drops as wide as possible to get seats to fit.

    Alistair

  9. #219
    ***Euro-Nova Supporter*** Peter's Avatar
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    Threads

    Rather than drill and tap out to the next size up it's much better to repair the thread using a tapex or helicoile kit.
    https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/15-Piece-...kAAOSwcBhWXmFO
    these are under a tenner and I have used t his kit many times in M6, ;m8, M10 and M12 on the buggys with 100% results.
    The opinions expressed in my posts may not be made in a sound mind and should be taken in the spirit intended, Jack Daniels is fine. Autism isn't something you get or can be 'cured of', it is the way we are wired, differently.

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  10. #220
    Quote Originally Posted by Peter View Post
    Rather than drill and tap out to the next size up it's much better to repair the thread using a tapex or helicoile kit.
    https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/15-Piece-...kAAOSwcBhWXmFO
    these are under a tenner and I have used t his kit many times in M6, ;m8, M10 and M12 on the buggys with 100% results.
    How do these work? you drill a bigger hole then these act as a thread spacer to use the original bolt size?

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