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Thread: Scottish Nova - time for a rebuild!

  1. #281
    Senior Member BlueNova's Avatar
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    Thanks folks. I've just had a thought about fitting the steering end stop. I recall that when I install the steering box I need to rotate it slightly on the beam because the rake of the steering column in the Nova is shallower than the Beetle.

    Does this mean that the arms from the box will no longer be aligned with the steering end stop bolts? Does this explain why so many Novas end up with the inside of the front tyres scraping the body above the Napoleon's hat?

    Could someone have a look at their own set up and let me know. Perhaps this might be a good time to consider rack and pinion ... any thoughts or advice welcome.

    Alistair

  2. #282
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    yes. On mine anyway... There are also some 'stops' on the beam that only allows you to rotate the steering around the beam a certain amount I think. Nothing that can't be overcome, but maybe worth checking your steering column angle / coupling before re-welding the stop plate back on?

    I wonder if it is possible to weld a small plate / washer to the end of the bolt head so that the steering arm still hits it with more adjustment?

  3. #283
    Senior Member BlueNova's Avatar
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    Thanks Martin,

    Very helpful ... and I think that despite the advantages of going rack & pinion I'm going to give it a miss after reading threads in the suspension section, especially with the MOT headaches that David (Islandman) had. I think it's probably best to keep everything original to make sure I can get her back on the road without any issues.

    Cheers, Alistair

  4. #284
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    Good to see the progress - keep the updates coming

  5. #285
    Senior Member BlueNova's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by steve View Post
    Good to see the progress - keep the updates coming
    Cheers Steve, much appreciated!

    Yes, it's great to get going again after about 4 months, even if it's just "5 mins" worth!

    I was looking at your build thread and saw a relatively recent photo of your steering rack in place, mounted to the black angle bar (which is one of the components that you're probably going to 'test out in the rain for a while'). In my research about rack & pinion I found the very same mounting arrangement being produced in small numbers in the States, but haven't found any suppliers in the UK.

    Whilst I'm still minded to adopt the 'KISS' approach, and stick to original items to get me street legal, given that Flatlands have done such great work on your chassis (and others) I'd like to learn more about your steering set up. Maybe I could be persuaded to make the change?

    So could you let us know what steering rack you used, and details of the mounting bracket? Presumably Flatlands have done this before and it's all MOT compliant? Perhaps a wee update on your own build thread (rather than mine) would be more appropriate? (Don't worry if you're too busy to do that, it's ok .... I'm working at a snail's pace here!)

    Cheers, Alistair
    Last edited by BlueNova; 01-03-2019 at 11:03 PM.

  6. #286
    Hi Alister
    I too have R&P steering, works very well, even with no power and 225-60/15 tyres.
    Originally I used a Talbot unit with the track rod chopped by 6cm each end but now with LHD I am using a Citroen C5 unit (Although I believe Clio etc are the same), with the ends chopped and re tapped.

    The short length of 3" angle iron across the frame head with a couple of braces has been used on a few Nova/Stirling/Eagle cars with a variety of racks, as long as it has a couple of mounting points and suitable gearing, (2 turns lock to lock is fine) then it should be OK.

    On most set ups you will need to reverse the rod ends using anti bump bushes, very easy to do.

    Don''t forget, mine is LHD.

    1531753167234.jpg


    Rack and mount.jpg


    steering rack 1.jpg



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  7. #287
    Senior Member BlueNova's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Peter View Post
    Hi Alister
    I too have R&P steering, works very well, even with no power and 225-60/15 tyres.
    Originally I used a Talbot unit with the track rod chopped by 6cm each end but now with LHD I am using a Citroen C5 unit (Although I believe Clio etc are the same), with the ends chopped and re tapped.
    Thanks Peter. Chopping and re tapping the track rods sounds like a neat solution to the problem that David (Islandman) had several years ago at the MoT station

  8. #288
    Senior Member Phill's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by steve View Post
    Sounds like you had a productive day - a few more jobs off the list.
    Seeing your 'before' pic with the 2 top-mounted brake reservoir pipes on the master cylinder heading up into the front compartment/boot, reminded me about this 'Direct Mount' reservoir:

    https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Classic-V...-/111925867948

    This makes for an easier install on the Nova, and allows you to set-up the brakes before you put the body on. It also makes removing the body easier as it's one less connection to worry about. Just a thought ;-)
    I would seriously consider using this - if only to set up the brakes properly prior to fitting the body. Adjusting the pushrod clevis and the stop plate for the pedals is very difficult once the body is on (at least with the Beetle you can reach it from outside the car with the door open - the high sides of the body prevent you being able to reach the pedal to carry out adjustments without major contortions climbing inside the car). I've just spent a few hours trying to adjust my stop plate and I can assure you it would be so much easier without the body in place. I would be inclined to fit one of these simply to allow the brakes to be fully set up, bled and adjusted, before fitting the body. I agree with Dirk however that access to the reservoir is difficult once the body is in place and you would have to remove the front wheel every time you went to check the fluid level
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  9. #289
    Senior Member BlueNova's Avatar
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    Another wee spell in the garage today to start stripping my old beam, and a spare one I picked up a year or so ago. I'm wanting to fit new upper and lower ball joints to the torsion arms but appreciate this isn't an easy task. Apart from taking them to a garage with a suitable press, can anyone recommend a ball joint remover/installer kit that would be up to the job?

    I was quite horrified how badly repaired the shock towers were on my old beam. The poorly welded patches were covered in a layer of silicon and paint. The work was done at some point before I bought the Nova as a road going car, and I put her through 5 MOT's before taking her off the road in 1991. I guess the testers weren't as strict way back then .... !?!

    Old beam with spare beam behind.jpg Marking position of eccentric bush on steering knuckle.jpg Scary welding covered in silicon.jpg Some parts removed.jpg

    (file names explain what you're looking at)

    Alistair

  10. #290
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    When I did mine I bought a cheap 20 ton press of Ebay it was cheaper than having someone else do it and I have used the press lots since then as well.

    Dirk

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