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Thread: Nova droop snoot

  1. #1
    Senior Member Phill's Avatar
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    Nova droop snoot

    I think my car has a droop in the nose when I compare it to the MK1 cars. Any suggestions what I can do to correct this?

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  2. #2
    ***Euro-Nova Supporter*** Spacenut's Avatar
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    Hi Phill - the upper body section can droop over time, especially if the wheelarch returns have been trimmed back. The nosecone (front undertray) wraps under the front of the car, past the front beam and all the way back to the corners of the floorpan, close to the "Napolean's Hat". I seem to remember some triangular steel plates extending from the floorpan and the undertray is usually bolted through that. The effect is to brace the upper bodywork, lifting the line of the nose. If the undertray is new, or repaired, attach it to the upper body first, then put a scissor jack or some such to support the nose at the right angle and then drill through the fibreglass and steel panels at the rear last.

    I'm pretty sure my nose drooped a bit without the undertray as well.

    Lauren
    only Pythagoras can save me now!

  3. #3
    Sam Cobley asserted that the Elam cars were often taken out of the moulds too early and allowed to cure resting on their tub flanges. with the snoot unsupported causing it to droop and the wheel-arch to distort outwards accordingly. It is often obvious in Mk2s, so he's probably right!
    It's a 52 year old car and everything works, just not always at the same time.......and it's probably about to get jealous!
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  4. #4
    Senior Member Phill's Avatar
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    Thanks Lauren - that makes perfect sense. I just tried jacking up the nose using a trolley jack and it raises it quite a bit so I'll be using this technique when I re-fit the front undertray.

    Sam Cobleys explanation makes sense too
    "The most beautiful kit car in the world - Motor"

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  5. #5
    I have noticed on different Novas the front nose angle can vary quite a lot. I think Rab's Nova (Sarah?) is similar.

    Mine drops a bit, and we couldnt use the napoleons hat points as the Red 9 axle brace bars connect here and it would foul the wishbones. Instead I trimmed the edges off and glass a return edge to face up on the Red 9 axle centre plate - this helps lift it and firms up the front end well.

  6. #6
    My car has a double skin fibre-glass/polyurethane foam sandwich under the wings which makes the front end very rigid (no-idea who did that but it was neatly done, probably with the shell upside down) It also means that stones thrown up by the front tyres don't star-crack the gelcoat either.....
    It's a 52 year old car and everything works, just not always at the same time.......and it's probably about to get jealous!
    *Donate to Euro-Nova today!*

  7. #7
    Senior Member bushboy's Avatar
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    Back in Oz we install flopper stoppers. I have S/S plates wrapping around and bolted to the wheel tub/ This is then supported by S/S rods that go back to the front beam where they bolt to plates welded to the beam. You can jump on the nose all day long & it wont droop.

    Bushboy
    "Always do what you are afraid to do"
    "I can accept failure, but I can't accept not trying"

  8. #8
    Yep flopper stoppers are the way to go, my Blue Nova use to have a terrible droop badly affecting ground clearance. I installed some flat bar welded to some more at right angles and a bit more triangulation at the joint. This was then bolted up to the front torsion tubes and under the bonnet tub which they were bolted to. I gained a lot more rigidity at the from and about and extra 2 - 3 inches of ground clearance.
    Last edited by islandman; 09-09-2016 at 11:47 PM.

  9. #9
    Senior Member MicksRedNova's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by islandman View Post
    Yep flopper stoppers are the way to go, my Blue Nova use to have a terrible droop badly affecting ground clearance. I installed some flat bar welded to some more at right angles and a bit more triangulation at the joint. This was then bolted up to the front torsion tubes and under the bonnet tube which they were bolted to. I gained a lot more rigidity at the from and about and extra 2 - 3 inches of ground clearance.
    I also used this technique. But using box section that extended from the torsion tubes, around the front of the spare wheel well, and triangulated back to the suspension.
    I could stand in the bonnet space without the body dropping.

    Mick
    Club Nova Member (F-036)

    MicksRedNova2 may take as long as the original!!

  10. #10
    ***Euro-Nova Supporter*** BlueNova's Avatar
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    I've got an awful feeling that I've got a droopy snoot too ... but I can't really tell since the car's been tightly tucked up in the garage for 25 years. However, a couple of years before then I made the mistake of cutting the glassfibre beneath the 'Napoleon' to get access and never fixed it. Will make sure I fix it properly during my rebuild .... and my plan for this weekend is to prepare the fixings etc in the garage to enable me to suspend the body from the roof

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