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Thread: Nova droop snoot

  1. #31
    ***Euro-Nova Supporter*** BlueNova's Avatar
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    ... or possibly a better place to cut would be right across the ‘firewall’ and round towards but not including the recesses for the hydraulic rams? The cut could be made just below the level of the dashboard so that the repair could be easily hidden

    Alistair

  2. #32
    ***Euro-Nova Supporter*** Peter's Avatar
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    Personally, and going on my experience with the doors only, I wouldn't cut anything, apply force to the nose as you have and use A HEAT GUN to soften the rear corners.It will take time as the heat needs to 'soak in' and then cool right off. reinforce with 'forklift' bars. (The SS should have brackets from the top of the axle to the back of the boot. (should have )
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  3. #33
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    No don't cut anything Alistair as Peter says heat and force, just don't rush it
    Mike

  4. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by Peter View Post
    Personally, and going on my experience with the doors only, I wouldn't cut anything, apply force to the nose as you have and use A HEAT GUN to soften the rear corners.It will take time as the heat needs to 'soak in' and then cool right off. reinforce with 'forklift' bars. (The SS should have brackets from the top of the axle to the back of the boot. (should have )
    Quote Originally Posted by Mikemrb View Post
    No don't cut anything Alistair as Peter says heat and force, just don't rush it
    Mike
    Hmmm ... well, I've given it 3 sessions each 2 hours long with a 2kw fan heater as shown in the photos, and have been checking the position of the body with a digital micrometer and have only achieved a little under 1mm. Ideally I need to achieve at least 10mm here if I'm to achieve 130mm clearance under the front undertray.

    .... if I continue with this method there'll be a hole in the ozone layer above St Andrews!

  5. #35
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    I think you're going to need something that will give out a bit more heat that a fan heater, infrared bulbs or a space heater would give a good spread of heat a heat gun might be a bit localised

  6. #36
    pressure and time will do it, DO NOT cut anything, it really won't be necessary. pressure and time, heat speeds things up but pressure and time alone will do it. cross your fingers for some hot days

  7. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by islandman View Post
    pressure and time will do it, DO NOT cut anything, it really won't be necessary. pressure and time, heat speeds things up but pressure and time alone will do it. cross your fingers for some hot days
    Thanks for the encouragement David .... but hot days on the East Coast of Bonnie Scotland?!?

  8. #38
    ***Euro-Nova Supporter*** Spacenut's Avatar
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    Hi Alistair - I believe the mysterious fibreglass tunnel between the spare wheel well and the cockpit bulkhead was originally intended to work as cabin ventilation. The tunnel would be opened up and the bonnet nostrils created positive air pressure. The extended rear lip of the bonnet would act as a water separator. In the cabin I think the idea was to connect to the central plenum under the Mk1 dash, although there is no suggestion of this in the instruction manuals that I have seen...

    This design is actually very similar to the cabin ventilation system used by Lotus on the Europa. It is not very efficient at the best of times, but with squidgy luggage in the Lotus front compartment, ventilation was apparently non-existent

    I think it would be acceptable to apply a bit more force than 3 batteries - maybe bolt down the body to the frame and chock under the nose so that the weight of the car is brought to bear...

    Lauren
    only Pythagoras can save me now!

  9. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by Spacenut View Post
    Hi Alistair - I believe the mysterious fibreglass tunnel between the spare wheel well and the cockpit bulkhead was originally intended to work as cabin ventilation.

    ...............

    I think it would be acceptable to apply a bit more force than 3 batteries - maybe bolt down the body to the frame and chock under the nose so that the weight of the car is brought to bear...

    Lauren
    That makes sense Lauren. My 'tunnel' hasn't been opened up for ventilation but there's a drain hole right under the trailing edge of the bonnet which feeds right into it .... and hand having just looked down inside for the 1st time, it's half full of grit and gunge! Well that's another wee job to add to the list, to clear it out and provide positive drainage.

    On the droop snoot issue I was hoping that the weight of the body plus the 3 batteries, along with some heat, would make the body settle onto the front of the floorpans. I might follow your suggestion just to bolt down the body to the floorpans and raise the nose slowly and incrementally so that the weight of the car is brought to bear ... hopefully that way I'll be spared any cracking.

    The steelwork has now been ordered for my 'forklifts' but isn't expected for another week, so at least I've got some time to keep applying pressure and a more direct form of heat

  10. #40
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    I like Mike's idea of using heat lamps since their heat can be better controlled and the effect should be considerably more effective than a fan heater where the heated air would dissipate faster than the heat generated by the lamps.

    And, I also agree with Lauren's idea of bolting the shell onto the chassis and adding extra weight at what looks like the bulkhead area while using whatever method you prefer to help lift the nose

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