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Thread: Nova droop snoot

  1. #41
    Euro-Nova Founder bobbybrown's Avatar
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    https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/5A-1200W-...-127635-2958-0

    This will be better than your fan heater

    or if you want it now, Amazon…
    https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B088NSS1...FZ9YH692BKR7PA
    Last edited by bobbybrown; 03-09-2021 at 06:05 PM.

  2. #42
    ***Euro-Nova Supporter*** BlueNova's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bobbybrown View Post
    https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/5A-1200W-...-127635-2958-0

    This will be better than your fan heater

    or if you want it now, Amazon…
    https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B088NSS1...FZ9YH692BKR7PA
    That’s really helpful Dan ... I’ve ordered one just now, thanks!
    ... should have it by Monday!
    Last edited by BlueNova; 03-09-2021 at 07:04 PM.

  3. #43
    Senior Member Phill's Avatar
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    From what I can recall you have 205/60 tyres on the front? You could gain an extra 20mm of clearance simply by reverting to 205/70 profiles which was the standard size for the Nova back in the 80's. That extra 20mm height along with the height increase you would achieve simply by lowering the rear a bit more should be enough to cure the grounding issue even if you aren't able to alleviate the droop snoot?

    When I lowered the back of my car I was surprised at how much it raised the front by due to the pivot action of the front wheels. That said, I do think I need to raise the rear back up to reduce the amount of camber I have on my car.
    "The most beautiful kit car in the world - Motor"

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  4. #44
    ***Euro-Nova Supporter*** BlueNova's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Phill View Post
    From what I can recall you have 205/60 tyres on the front? You could gain an extra 20mm of clearance simply by reverting to 205/70 profiles which was the standard size for the Nova back in the 80's. That extra 20mm height along with the height increase you would achieve simply by lowering the rear a bit more should be enough to cure the grounding issue even if you aren't able to alleviate the droop snoot?

    When I lowered the back of my car I was surprised at how much it raised the front by due to the pivot action of the front wheels. That said, I do think I need to raise the rear back up to reduce the amount of camber I have on my car.
    That might well be an option Phill.

    I'm going to see what I can achieve by pressure/heat/steel 'forklifts'/etc, but if I need any more (130mm clearance is about my limit under the floorpan drops anyway) there might well be a pair of unused Nankang NS2's up for sale!

  5. #45
    Senior Member Phill's Avatar
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    I've been checking my cars clearance at the front undertray. Co-incidently it currently sits at 130mm at it's lowest point. This is with 205/70 x 14 tyres front and rear with the rear very low as you know. I tried jacking up the rear a couple of inches to remove the camber and this lowered the front by another 15mm (so this brings the front down to 115mm). And of course It would drop it even lower if I had bigger tyres on the rear too.
    "The most beautiful kit car in the world - Motor"

    http://stores.lulu.com/rightsigns


  6. #46
    ***Euro-Nova Supporter*** BlueNova's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Phill View Post
    I've been checking my cars clearance at the front undertray. Co-incidently it currently sits at 130mm at it's lowest point. This is with 205/70 x 14 tyres front and rear with the rear very low as you know. I tried jacking up the rear a couple of inches to remove the camber and this lowered the front by another 15mm (so this brings the front down to 115mm). And of course It would drop it even lower if I had bigger tyres on the rear too.
    Thanks Phill, that's very helpful.

    Today I bolted the body down tight and went through the loading process lifting the nose to different levels. I decided that Lauren's advice to apply a bit more force than 3 batteries by bolting down the body to the frame and then lifting the nose so that the weight of the car is brought to bear was worth a go, albeit very slowly so that I could listen for the sound of cracking fiber glass

    The clearance was measured at the lower front central section of the undertray, and the chassis height was measured adjacent to the Napoleon's Hat. This shows that as the load applied at the nose is increased it is starting to lift the chassis, so that needs to be considered in determining how much clearance I can actually achieve. All heights are in mm ....

    With no load (full droop) the clearance = 70 and chassis height = 200
    At part load the clearance = 105 and chassis height = 205
    With full(?) load the clearance = 135 and chassis height = 215

    That suggests to me that I should be able to achieve about 135 - (215-200) = 120mm clearance once the metalwork's in place. If that's not enough it's encouraging to know that changing to 205/70 R14's would give me another 20mm

    Next time you're over here you can try my rear's on your car and I'll try your fronts on mine!

    In the meantime whilst I'm waiting for the steels to be delivered for my droop snoot, I've fired up the welder to fabricate a support for my steering column. I've still to finalise the ends of it (there's a lot of trial & error to get the height right where it'll be welded to the central tunnel) but it'll give you an impression.



    Last edited by BlueNova; 04-09-2021 at 10:06 PM.

  7. #47
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    You're on fire mate, good work

  8. #48
    Alistair I just started up an old laptop to see if its still worked and found my old flopper stopper diagram. It may help visualise


  9. #49
    ***Euro-Nova Supporter*** BlueNova's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by islandman View Post
    Alistair I just started up an old laptop to see if its still worked and found my old flopper stopper diagram. It may help visualise
    Thanks David

    Thatís pretty much what Iím planning but Iíve ordered 50 x 25 x2.5mm hollow box section. I do have some 50 x 5mm but found it wasnít as rigid as I expected (however I tested it without any bracing at the 90í bend)

    To avoid having to source longer high tensile bolts for the beam Iíll be cutting a hole in the front face of the box section large enough to get a socket through to the bolt on the inside of the back face.

    When the nose sits at Ďfull droopí the back of the bonnet cavity actually rests against the bolts, but when I raise the nose Iíve got enough space to fit the 25mm deep section.

    Alistair

  10. #50
    ***Euro-Nova Supporter*** BlueNova's Avatar
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    The flopper stoppers are now fitted. I added sealing strips to the top surface to reduce the risk of squeaking noises whilst the car's moving. As well as painting with several coats of smooth black Hammerite, I sprayed the inside of the hollow sections and left the ends open so that any water getting in will drain out easily. I also made up a couple of small brackets to fix the outer edges of the undertray to the wheel well section of the main body .







    I was hoping for 120mm clearance under the front undertray and have managed to achieve 110mm ... which I'm happy with for the time being. Once I get the car on the road, if I feel I need some more I'll change the front tyres for 70 profiles to get another 25mm.



    ..... and here's a reminder of the droop!


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