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Thread: Nova droop snoot

  1. #21
    Quote Originally Posted by wizrod View Post
    and I'm not 100% sure about the rafters' strength (50yr old 2x4s), so a strap at each corner, as opposed to a single lift in the center would-be a much safer approach, I think..
    My block and tackle mounts to a scaffolding pole above the rafters that spans four them to spread the load for that very reason. I didn't fancy having to repair a garage roof!

  2. #22
    Quote Originally Posted by wizrod View Post
    The idea of using rachet strap nis excellent! On reflection, I don't think I have the headroom in my garage for a chain winch, and I'm not 100% sure about the rafters' strength (50yr old 2x4s), so a strap at each corner, as opposed to a single lift in the center would-be a much safer approach, I think.
    This is exactly what I did, supported by the wheel arches - no additional damage to report, although I had some crazing at the arch apex on a couple of corners already. Certainly doesn't appear any worse for it's carrying the weight, either in my dad's garage, or at Southways.
    Never be afraid to stand out from the crowd!

  3. #23
    Senior Member bushboy's Avatar
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    You may be surprised just how light the body (no canopy) is. I currently have Micksrednova MkII sitting on my shed floor, upside down & I carried it in there by my self! I'm hardly Mr Universe and well past my prime but I would guess it is somewhere around the 120kg mark. I may actually "borrow" the bath room scales & see if I can get a reasonably accurate weight.

    I'll let you know.

    Bushboy
    "Always do what you are afraid to do"
    "I can accept failure, but I can't accept not trying"

  4. #24
    ***Euro-Nova Supporter*** BlueNova's Avatar
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    Hi Bushboy,

    My garage is a mess! I need to tidy up (OK, I really need to throw a lot out!!) but I'm getting close to lifting the body. I bought a 500kg pulley system today with 4 straps so I'm raring to go. Just have to satisfy myself that the (already loaded roof .... it's holding a couple of catamarans!) has enough strength for the Nova too. I also bought some timber to provide temporary bracing to the roof trusses. Perhaps overkill, but I don't want to damage the roof!

    Will post photos once I've separated the body and chassis

    Cheers,

    Alistair

  5. #25
    Senior Member bushboy's Avatar
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    I weighed the bare body shell this morning by using the bathroom scales. First the rear end and then the front. Add the weights together and it's 100kg or thereabouts. So give or take a bit for scientific error and if you rig is good for 200kg you shouldn't have any problems.










    Bushboy
    Last edited by bushboy; 17-09-2016 at 12:46 PM.
    "Always do what you are afraid to do"
    "I can accept failure, but I can't accept not trying"

  6. #26
    ***Euro-Nova Supporter*** BlueNova's Avatar
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    That's really helpful Bushboy .... at least I now know I've built in a generous factor of safety!
    Alistair

  7. #27
    ***Euro-Nova Supporter*** BlueNova's Avatar
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    After 5 years I must apologise to Phill for taking his thread on 'Droop Snoot' off topic!!

    Anyway, having lowered my body onto the chassis today with Phill's help, it's clear that I've got the dreaded 'droop snoot'.

    I cut the front undertray at the front beam over 30 years ago, but didn't install anything to prevent movement at the front

    Anyway, having read the 1st page of Phill's thread I see that Bushboy, Islandman and MicksRedNova all came up with solutions that produced a lot more rigidity, as well as an extra 2 - 3 inches of ground clearance.

    Could Martin, David, Mick (or anyone else who's done this) please post some photos to show what they fabricated?

    Many thanks,
    Alistair

  8. #28
    Quote Originally Posted by BlueNova View Post
    After 5 years I must apologise to Phill for taking his thread on 'Droop Snoot' off topic!!

    Anyway, having lowered my body onto the chassis today with Phill's help, it's clear that I've got the dreaded 'droop snoot'.

    I cut the front undertray at the front beam over 30 years ago, but didn't install anything to prevent movement at the front

    Anyway, having read the 1st page of Phill's thread I see that Bushboy, Islandman and MicksRedNova all came up with solutions that produced a lot more rigidity, as well as an extra 2 - 3 inches of ground clearance.

    Could Martin, David, Mick (or anyone else who's done this) please post some photos to show what they fabricated?

    Many thanks,
    Alistair

    I had a curved flat bar coming down from the front beam bolts to the underside of the tub, unfortunately don't think I have any photos. I do remember that flatlands did a similar (and better) job for Steve and I think he posted some photos in his thread. I need to see if I saved them anywhere

    edit :

    I found Steve's.

    Last edited by islandman; 29-08-2021 at 07:18 AM.

  9. #29
    ***Euro-Nova Supporter*** BlueNova's Avatar
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    That’s really helpful David ... many thanks!

    .... and it’ll give me an excuse to do some more welding!
    Last edited by BlueNova; 29-08-2021 at 07:40 AM.

  10. #30
    ***Euro-Nova Supporter*** BlueNova's Avatar
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    I’ve moved this discussion back to the ‘Nova droop snoot’ thread from my own car’s thread because I suspect there might be others who’ve cut their front undertrays and might want to check if they’ve suffered the dreaded ‘droop’ ….

    Quote Originally Posted by MartinB View Post
    If you are digging out the bonnet, it would be worth fitting it to your droop snoot to see how much difference there is - if raising the droop back up, it needs to match the edges of the bonnet?
    Thanks Martin … I dug out the bonnet, gave it a wash and popped it in position with ‘full droop’. I took measurements to establish its relationship to the body and then raised the nose by 50mm. I checked the measurements again and found there was no change. This confirmed my impression that the vertical faces on either side of the bonnet recess in the main body effectively make the whole section lying under the bonnet ‘rigid’. This means that the ‘rotation’ mostly takes place immediately to the rear of the trailing edge of the bonnet.

    I also looked out old photos from 1988 (shortly after I bought the car) and 1990 (when I’d cut the front undertray and had the body sprayed blue). The photos suggest that most of my ‘droop’ happened between 1988 and 1990, and in the Stones line up my Nova appears to have the biggest droop!





    One of the key things about my 'droop' is that there are no cracks in the paint at all. Hopefully I can move things back without causing any damage to the paint.

    Today I then raised the nose by different amounts and noted the minimum clearance under the front undertray. The results were interesting …

    • At full ‘droop’ the minimum clearance is 60mm
    • By lifting the nose to the point that the body only just starts to lift from the front of the floorpan, the clearance is 100mm
    • By continuing to lift the nose to the point that the body has lifted 10mm above the front of the floorpan, the clearance is 130mm

    Then I measured the minimum clearance under my (standard) dropped floorpans …. 130mm. I went further and checked the minimum clearance under my daughter's Micra (130mm) and my Berlingo van (150mm). So now at least I have a better idea of what I should be aiming for.

    So, I don't think I’m too far away from achieving a better position for my ‘snoot’. The big question though is how am I going to achieve it? ….

    Steve’s idea of a 20mm box section is good, but it would mean taking the body back off. I’d also have to get the welder going again which would be fun, but inserting a box section would expose the chassis beneath the sills which I‘m not keen on. In short, I reckon it’s a lot of work to raise the nose by 20mm.

    Lauren and Dirk suggested heat and constant pressure will reshape fiberglass. I’ve started down that route by raising the nose to the point that the body is 10mm above the front edge of the floorpan, inserting a fan heater in the area just above the front beam, and applying downward pressure in that area using 3 car batteries.





    Initially I discounted Mark’s suggestion of cutting the body and then joining it back together because my Nova’s body is in very good condition. However, given that the ‘droop’ is effectively a hinge around the trailing edge of the bonnet, it might be worth considering a cut if the heat/pressure method doesn’t work.

    Drilling a reasonable sized hole at either end (to stop the body cracking beyond the cut line) and then cutting as shown, followed by raising the nose which will open the cut, then fix the metalwork in place from the front beam to the bonnet space, and finally repair the cut with fibreglass.

    The only possible snag I can think of is that there's a fibreglass 'tube' running front/back immediately under the centre which I guess was put there to prevent 'droop'? However, as long as I provide strength via metalwork from the front beam bolts, that tube would become redundant ... unless anyone can think of another reason why it's there??



    After all that, I’ve still to fabricate 2 triangles with the lower edges acting like forklifts under the bonnet recess area and the sloping edges running beside either side of the battery position …. more to follow soon

    Alistair
    Last edited by BlueNova; 02-09-2021 at 09:13 PM.

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