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Thread: Nova Kitcar Subaru flat-six PPC magazine project car or scoobynova.

  1. #511
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    Quote Originally Posted by islandman View Post
    Do you have any shots of how you covered it? And with what?
    I have found a few pics you will need to zoom in









    Dirk




















  2. #512
    Looking very neat, I'm liking how you made the section to match the new bulkhead profile. Presumably then cut and glassed / bonded to the body before fitting and bolting down

  3. #513
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    Thanks for posting the pics Dirk.
    My Pedal box is mounted slightly further away from the tunnel, so I think I have more room to manoeuvre, I'm still thinking of a floor mounted 'guard' it won't be quite as bomb-proof as yours though, I will give it some thought over the weekend. Thanks again.

  4. #514
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    Well, my luck had to run out sometime.
    The build has been going well in recent weeks, things that *could* have gone wrong, haven't. Until today.

    I attached the front beam, torqued it up to a paltry 36Lbs, inserted the through-rods, but when it came to attaching the trailing arms I hit a problem. The upper trailing arms bolted-up OK, the lowers didn't.

    I couldn't slide the lower arms in far enough for the grub-screw hole to align with the groove in the rods. The end of the rod hit against outside wall of the trailing arm before the screw hole and groove lined up, the grub screw won't go in.

    It's all Limebug kit so I have pinged them this evening, watch this space :-(

    Upper Arms slide in OK...




    Lower Arm. I am applying pressure to slide it in further, but at this point the thru-rod has hit the outside wall of the arm, the groove is visible on the right of the bolt hole.






  5. #515
    Owners Register Admin & Euro-Nova Supporter BlueNova's Avatar
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    Must be a simple fix because it was all assembled prior to painting the chassis wasn’t it? Have you tried inserting the rod from the other side instead?

    .... assuming the rod is perfectly straight it might be worth checking the lower beam is perfectly straight too ... I remember you originally had welding heat distortion in the beam

    Alistair
    Last edited by BlueNova; 04-03-2020 at 08:39 AM.

  6. #516
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    Well the Dry build wasn't (ahem) as thorough as it could have been...
    I am now using refurbed tailing arms.
    However the (lower) ones used in the dry build had the cover/end plates knocked out
    and the thru-bars protruded though a few mm.

    So I am going to have to the knock the plates out on the lower arms.
    Limebug have now created a 3D printable replacement high-rise cover plate (pic), to give the install a better look.
    They offered to send me some, but I asked them for the .STL file, so I could get them 3D printed myself, I prefer a little more bling on the chassis ;-)

    EndPlate.jpg

  7. #517
    Owners Register Admin & Euro-Nova Supporter BlueNova's Avatar
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    Glad you got it sorted Steve

    .... but do you really need any more bling on that chassis?

  8. #518
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    Did I mention that the dry build could have been a bit more thorough?

    I was prepping the CV joints and I couldn't work out why things weren't fitting (Pic).
    I have 100mm flanges (Type 2 Van) at the gearbox end of the axles, and 90mm (stock VW) IRS Flanges on the outside.

    Except that I don't...
    I have the larger 100mm flanges on both sides. That is a surprise.

    I am pleased because the 100mm CV joints can handle more power.

    The downside is that I have already purchased some EMPI 90mm CV joints about a year ago.
    they will be up for sale on this website in due course :-(



  9. #519
    Owners Register Admin & Euro-Nova Supporter BlueNova's Avatar
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    I think it's just part of our passion ...

    I've got several bits and pieces I've bought online which I now realise either aren't right, or have been duplicated by other orders I've placed!

    .... Must remember not to order stuff online late in the evening after a few wines!

  10. #520
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    Quote Originally Posted by steve View Post
    Well the Dry build wasn't (ahem) as thorough as it could have been...
    I am now using refurbed tailing arms.
    However the (lower) ones used in the dry build had the cover/end plates knocked out
    and the thru-bars protruded though a few mm.

    So I am going to have to the knock the plates out on the lower arms.
    Limebug have now created a 3D printable replacement high-rise cover plate (pic), to give the install a better look.
    They offered to send me some, but I asked them for the .STL file, so I could get them 3D printed myself, I prefer a little more bling on the chassis ;-)

    EndPlate.jpg
    I'm not sure I would be happy with a 3D printed part in such an exposed area, I'm sure a local machine shop would knock you up a pair in alli for less than it would cost to 3D print them and would be far more durable.

    Dirk

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