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Thread: Nova Kitcar Subaru flat-six PPC magazine project car or scoobynova.

  1. #301
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    Quote Originally Posted by Phill View Post
    Great work Steve. Glassing in the side pods makes sense from a structural point of view. The box section should be really strong and rigid as a result casuing less body flex. I had an accident in my first Nova circa 1985 when I was hit in the side and ended up in hospital with a fractured pelvis. I wonder would bonded in side pods have saved me? The downside is limited access to the sides of the car but I'm guessing you've thought that one through and is this one of the reasons why you are using linear actuators instead of hydraulics?

    Pity about the 3D print - I'm wondering would a slightly scaled down version be acceptable? I could try printing them diagonally on my print bed, then once the design had been finalised you could get them printed full size?

    Alistair - my wife Alison and your wife would get on like a house on fire as both seem to share a similar disdain for the Nova (or maybe they're just jealous of the attention we give to the cars)? I often go for months without doing any work at all then spend days and days getting lots of things done (I used the holiday period to more or less complete my wiring). Maybe we should adopt Dirks approach and try and get one or two things done every day no matter how small a job they are, it's one less item off the list. It's too easy to become complacent then nothing gets done for ages.

    The glassed-in sides feel solid, and losing the hydraulics is another reason to go that route, but I believe the average contortionist Nova owner could probably find a way to get access to wires and pipework via the side pocket opening.

    Thanks for the offer to reprint the vents, I reckon they are going to be OK now, so I'm going to reprint 4 (with the thicker side-wall), I will do that when the dash-top arrives from poly-creation.

  2. #302
    Senior Member BlueNova's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by steve View Post
    I didn't think about wind and damp entering the cockpit, but it is a handy bi-product of sealing things up.
    So yeah, I'll run in a 'through' electrical duct (to the engine bay), and one for the side pocket switches and one for the power feed to the actuator. Maybe some sound proofing on the body tub itself, and that should be it, no further access required, what could possibly go wrong? ;-)
    You've given me food for thought Steve.

    My side panels were bonded to the main tub and de-seamed before the car was sprayed, and I intend to keep it that way. They were only bonded along the top edge, with the lower edge left 'open'. When I lifted the body at the start of my resto I found loft insulation crammed between the side panel and the main tub .... presumably it was there for sound proofing? Anyway, it must have got soaking wet (and held the moisture for some time afterwards) when the car was driven in the rain. That possibly explains some of the rot on my old floor pans around the edges!!

    So it looks like bonding all the way round to seal the side panel completely will be an essential modification on my Nova. Thanks for sowing the seed!

    Alistair
    Last edited by BlueNova; 08-01-2019 at 08:23 AM.

  3. #303
    Senior Member bushboy's Avatar
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    Seal them up water tight & you have the foundations for an amphibious Nova.

    There is a memory rattling around in my brain about one mans attempt at an amphibious Nova, but cant recall if he was American or European.

    Having had mine on and off a few times I don't intend following the seam filling route.

    Bushboy
    "Always do what you are afraid to do"
    "I can accept failure, but I can't accept not trying"

  4. #304
    Senior Member BlueNova's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bushboy View Post
    Seal them up water tight & you have the foundations for an amphibious Nova.

    There is a memory rattling around in my brain about one mans attempt at an amphibious Nova, but cant recall if he was American or European.

    Having had mine on and off a few times I don't intend following the seam filling route.

    Bushboy
    I remember it well Bushboy ... it was an American ...

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9eUObcKIm9I

    .... I'll not be taking things that far!!

    Alistair

  5. #305
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  6. #306
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    My car has always been tricky to get into gear, you have to slam it in to engage a gear, and there is no 'feel' at the stick end.

    I convinced myself that the Subaru 'box was the issue, it was reconditioned a while ago, so perhaps a glitch during the recon...

    Anyway after some heath-robinson checking, it looks like the gears *are* all there, I checked by cranking the input shaft n times (note the block of wood 'crank') and checking the rotation of the drive shafts as each gear was engaged. All the gears are there, including reverse, that is good news I suppose, but leaves me with the problem of how to localise the problem further, any thoughts?

    The Subarugears linkage fits reasonably well... there is a small amount of play there however.

    I can't reinstall the the 'box and selector rod at present as the 'box mounts are at the zinc platers.
    The problem isn't helped by the short gear stick, I recon an extra couple of inches on there would help.









  7. #307
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    Steve
    I tried a quick shifter on mine whilst in the build process and it was useless. It made everything too tight. .
    An extra few inches in length does make all the difference 😂😂

  8. #308
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    I would say longer leaver, even with a standard size leaver you do not get much side to side movement and it does take a bit of getting used to. The Subaru has a further linkage which amplifies the movement.

    Dirk

  9. #309
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    I'm looking at the connections and fittings required to connect up the brakes.

    I have made the brake set-up more complex by going off-piste;
    The non-VW pedal box Master Cyl(s) have 7/16 UNF brake line thread (UNF=20 TPI)
    The front calipers (Wilwoods pictured) have 1/8 NPT 27 tapered thread,
    The EMPI rears use M10x1mm, the Chassis tube has internal lines with M10x1.25 fittings (I think, Pic),
    so nothing fits to anything else.

    I'm thinking I might use a mixture or connection adapters, some 'hard lines'
    and some custom fittings either side of this braided hose:
    www.carbuildersolutions.com/uk/stainless-braided-flexible-ptfe-brake-hose-per-mtr.

    Any thoughts? Has anyone used the this kind of DIY braided hose before?







  10. #310
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    Steve
    Used the braided hose for my clutch line. It just made life easier.....

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