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Thread: Nova Kitcar Subaru flat-six PPC magazine project car or scoobynova.

  1. #481
    ***Euro-Nova Supporter***
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    I got the gearbox in and torqued down and the trailing arms are also in;
    I torqued the trailing arm pivot bolt to 87 Ft Lbs with loctite on the threads.
    I have a homebrew bolt-stopper (visible in bottom pic) to prevent the pivot bolts ending up on the M25.

    A couple of annoying problems:
    I couldn't figure out how to get the spring plate bolts inserted, the clearance against the arm is minimal, the trick is to squeeze the 2 plates together before putting the bolts in, I nicked the paintwork trying to work that out :-(

    The Scooby 'box fouled the chassis, well the clearance at one corner was next to nothing, this was sorted with a Powerfile.

    Next job is getting the gear-shift rod in, connected and working;
    Any gotchas for doing this on a Scooby gearbox?










  2. #482
    Senior Member Phill's Avatar
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    This is one quality build you are undertaking Steve
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  3. #483
    Owners Register Admin & Euro-Nova Supporter BlueNova's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Phill View Post
    This is one quality build you are undertaking Steve
    I can only agree with Phill. It's a small detail but it's amazing the difference even new nuts and bolts make.

    BTW, I'll be fitting my adjustable spring plates over the next couple of days and read your post re angles with interest. I suspect I'll do some trigonometry before I fit them, but at the end of the day, if it doesn't look right and and the range of adjustment isn't enough, it'll just have to be done again. One thing I wondered about ... your Nova's body will be about 25mm higher than normal given the box section around the floor pans. Did you allow for that?

    Anyway, with the fantastic attention to detail on your chassis build, please, please reconsider the 'rat look' for the body

    Cheers, Alistair

  4. #484
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    Quote Originally Posted by steve View Post

    Next job is getting the gear-shift rod in, connected and working;
    Any gotchas for doing this on a Scooby gearbox?
    I've just had a look back on my posts and I did not put any pics or how I did it, probably because it was not very pretty. I did not like the subarugears connection as I thought it put a lot of side pressure on the VW long link bar which in my mind would wear the plastic bush at the front of the arm just behind the gear leaver which I believe is a bugger to replace. I am probably wrong as there are lots of converted cars out there using it. I basically copied one of the US guys from the Sterling site but I can not remember who it was. I may have some photos on my work laptop if I have Ill send them over tomorrow.

    Dirk

  5. #485
    Owners Register Admin & Euro-Nova Supporter BlueNova's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by steve View Post
    I have installed the adjustable spring plates at the weekend, but not before some fun and games trying to work out the preload ...




    Hi Steve,

    I had a go at fitting my adjustable spring plates for my swing axle set up today but am finding that I can't get the cover plate bolted up tight. My old spring plate was quite thin and the new adjustable is not only thicker steel, but as you know, consists of 2 plates which all makes it harder to bolt down the cover plate. I'm trying to use new bushes (maybe that's part of the problem?) but I see you've got new ones too.

    Any tips/advice most welcome!

    Alistair

  6. #486
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    Quote Originally Posted by BlueNova View Post
    Hi Steve,

    I had a go at fitting my adjustable spring plates for my swing axle set up today but am finding that I can't get the cover plate bolted up tight. My old spring plate was quite thin and the new adjustable is not only thicker steel, but as you know, consists of 2 plates which all makes it harder to bolt down the cover plate. I'm trying to use new bushes (maybe that's part of the problem?) but I see you've got new ones too.

    Any tips/advice most welcome!

    Alistair

    Hello mate,
    There are 4 x M10 bolts securing the cover plate; get 2 longer bolts (in opposite corners of the plate) to get things started, crank these up until you can get 2 of the normal length bolts in, then swap the longer bolts out.
    I had the same problem.

    UPDATE: I have a spacer between the plate and the chassis, I will get a picture for you, standby ...

    These spacers from Limebug are an example of the spacers, mine were from Flatlands I don't know the make.
    https://www.limebug.com/product/view/4681/t1-t3-spring-plate-spacers-for-adjustable-spring-plates-6mm-boomerangs-pair-192
    Last edited by steve; 05-02-2020 at 11:32 PM.

  7. #487
    Owners Register Admin & Euro-Nova Supporter BlueNova's Avatar
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    Excellent Steve ... thanks!

    I’ve not seen the spacers before ... they make perfect sense after today’s struggles. I’ve just ordered a pair!

    Alistair
    Last edited by BlueNova; 06-02-2020 at 08:43 AM.

  8. #488
    I have spacers between arm and chassis on my swing axle, 1cm, brings to axle horizontal and wheels upright whilst maintaining load rate for driving, bump stop had to be halved.

    I don't think the retainers are needed on IRS though.

    anti spring bar.jpg
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  9. #489
    Owners Register Admin & Euro-Nova Supporter BlueNova's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BlueNova View Post
    Excellent Steve ... thanks!

    I’ve not seen the spacers before ... they make perfect sense after today’s struggles. I’ve just ordered a pair!

    Alistair
    Just want to give a 'shoutout' for Limebug. I ordered the spacers yesterday morning and had them in my hands early this afternoon. Excellent service!

  10. #490
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    A good weekend in the garage, I installed the gear-shift rod, coupled it up to the gearbox and... it worked. I can 'feel' all 5 gears and reverse. Great result!

    I was dreading this job; you may remember that in the dry-build I wasn't even sure all the gears were there. I found a youtube vid and followed it, basically run a piece of string/twine from one end of the tunnel to the other, through the hole that sits under the gearbox mount, then pull the rod in from the gearbox end (with some persuasion from the front with a length of wood).

    I cleaned the rod with wire wool beforehand to get it super-smooth, new bush, dollup of grease. That was all that was required.

    You'll see from the pic that I'm using a full sized gear stick, it'll get a haircut in due course, but not by much, as I reckon a long'ish gear lever works best with the Subarugears conversion.






    I started installing the rear brake lines, and immediately hit a problem when one of brake bulkhead mounts (my brake lines run through the centre tunnel) started turning as I tightened the coupling, implying there were loose connections somewhere inside the tube. That was not supposed to happen.

    Anyway with the gearbox in-situ, access to the mounts inside the tunnel was a nightmare, lashings of goopy Waxoyl everywhere, and a maze of razor-sharp steel shards lying in wait, anyway I pulled them both out eventually and tightened them, but not after cutting both thumbs and a middle finger dripping with blood, I didn't clean-up afterwards, I left the blood where it fell. After the kitcar gods had smiled on me earlier, it seemed appropriate to offer them something:









    Last edited by steve; 10-02-2020 at 11:57 PM.

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