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Thread: Nova Kitcar Subaru flat-six PPC magazine project car or scoobynova.

  1. #71
    I did first time around in the 80s, changing a 1300 to a type 4 injection from a 411 (think you had to use a type 3 clutch driven plate) It was great for about a year then gremlins attacked the electronics. Didn't know enough to sort it out, changed to carbs because they were easy to come by in scrapyards back then - it still wasn't very happy. Finally changed it back to a Beetle engine from a friends buggy before eventually selling the car in about 87.
    It's a 49 year old car and everything works, just not always at the same time.......and it's probably about to get jealous!
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  2. #72
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    Yes, the number of splines are different; I think its mentioned in the modifications manual - do you still have the engine in your bits and bobs, or was it scrapped?

  3. #73
    That was 30 years ago, and I've moved three times since then, so sadly no, it's not hanging around in my copious spares department!
    It's a 49 year old car and everything works, just not always at the same time.......and it's probably about to get jealous!
    *Donate to Euro-Nova today!*

  4. #74
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    Quote Originally Posted by MartinB View Post
    Nice to know someone else is a type 4 fan!
    Would the KISS principle extend to carbs rather than injection? - it took me for ever to find replacement sensors and bits and bobs (including loosing the original controller somehow...). I now have more controllers and sensors than I can shake a fist at, had I known then carbs would seem the way to go to keep it simple!? (at least I've got some spares for my engine now! `¬)

    It would be interesting to know how many people are running type 4s?

    Just to clarify, are we talking 411 / 412 / 914 here 68-74, or T4 van 90 - 03... I always get confused when T4 is mentioned! `¬)
    Hi Martin,
    Yeah love the T4, I plan on fitting aftermarket fuel injection, not the standard L-Jet (or is it K-Jet?) from the 411/412, this is due to availability of parts as you suggest, plus the mapping capabilities and reliability of modern FI.
    KISS still applies, as there are a number companies who can supply and fit/convert *any* engine, I spoke too a couple of them at Stoneleigh. Downside is that aftermarket FI kits are pricey.

    I'd be looking to find *any* 2000cc T4 lump, e.g. CJ Engine code which appears to be the most common, is from a T2 van, they all have the same bore & stroke, even the Porsche 914 lumps.

  5. #75
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    I will be interested to see your more modern F.I. system, sounds like the way to go!

    The system on mine is D-Jetronic, and is a very simple system, although as I said it took a while to source some of the sensors and bits, some from the States and others in old stock at Francis Tuthill's workshop down the road from me, (http://www.tuthillporsche.com/), but once cleaned up and put together it started fairly easily the first time after 25 years... yes, its definitely been / is a long term project!

    There are some photos and vids of the first time start in this thread that you may find interesting? http://www.euro-nova.co.uk/vb/showth...nd-sounds-like

    edit: P.S. there is a mass of information here as well which you may find interesting? https://members.rennlist.com/pbanders/
    Last edited by MartinB; 12-11-2017 at 07:25 PM.

  6. #76
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    Quote Originally Posted by MartinB View Post
    I will be interested to see your more modern F.I. system, sounds like the way to go!

    The system on mine is D-Jetronic, and is a very simple system, although as I said it took a while to source some of the sensors and bits, some from the States and others in old stock at Francis Tuthill's workshop down the road from me, (http://www.tuthillporsche.com/), but once cleaned up and put together it started fairly easily the first time after 25 years... yes, its definitely been / is a long term project!

    There are some photos and vids of the first time start in this thread that you may find interesting? http://www.euro-nova.co.uk/vb/showth...nd-sounds-like

    edit: P.S. there is a mass of information here as well which you may find interesting? https://members.rennlist.com/pbanders/
    Hi Martin,
    Interesting stuff there - thanks.
    I will definitely be getting the engine running on the chassis - i.e. before the body goes on, as you have done in your videos. What lump are you running there? What engine code?
    It is looking nice, any engine mods, bells and whistles?
    Are you using a beefed-up fuel pump to get that pressure?

    I spoke to Northampton Motorsport at Stones, they install OMEX Fuel injection.
    Megasquirt FI also looks interesting.
    So I know that after market FI is feasible, albeit expensive, but I haven't taken it any further.

    Right now that is looking too far ahead for me, I'm still sorting out Chassis bits, and a potential blocker in my build is the Gearbox mount (needed when you mate a non-Scooby engine to a Scooby 'box) made by Subarugears, the guys in OZ have it on backorder. The cut-away on the main tube can't be checked/repaired until the precise position of the gearbox is established.

  7. #77
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    The fuel pump is https://www.carbuildersolutions.com/...ion-pump-3-bar although I managed to get five or six of the original pumps 2nd hand, they all had leaks, so played safe... pressure is 28psi.

    Interestingly, I'm not sure on the cc, I believe it was originally 1700, but had been rebuilt to 2.0 by 'House Of Hasslock'. Although I have no proof of that... The engine was recommended by Keith Stringer I think, (I have a letter somewhere in my folder which is with the car some miles away), who knew of the engine (this is over 25 years ago), Keith was the Nova Club Advertisement Secretary in the late 80's.

    When redoing the injection system, (some 20 odd years later), it still had 'yellow' injectors and a couple of sensors that did not work, one looking like it had been attacked with a hacksaw! I can only assume that if it had been rebuilt, it had been as a long block and the guy I bought it from simply put the original bits back.

    At the time, (25+ years ago), as it had been a rebuild, I never went into pistons / rings / heads etc, but am now wishing I had so I know for sure, its only when we came to redo the FI that these anomalies turned up...

    So other than the question of cc, its basically stock. I'm not bothered if its 1700, 1800, or 2000, but I wish there was an easy way to tell! From what I've read the ecu will run it ok, we will have to see when it eventually gets on the road. (I believe the 2.0 uses green injectors as standard, but that it will still run fine with the yellow injectors unless really pushed at high revs)
    Last edited by MartinB; 15-11-2017 at 05:22 PM.

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