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Thread: Nova Kitcar Subaru flat-six PPC magazine project car or scoobynova.

  1. #641
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    Quote Originally Posted by islandman View Post
    Steve, you seem to have mastered custom 3D printed parts. From your earlier posts you mocked them up and sent them away to be printed, is that still the case or have you mastered CAD now? As I'm trying to figure out how you could explain to someone remote how you wanted that part to turn out? I'm looking to learn something here for custom parts I may need
    Learn to use a CAD. Modern CAD programs are not as hard to use as they used to be (or maybe they are but there is so much online tutorials that you can get the info you need to do what you want to do) I have used AutoCad for 20 years in 2D but could not get to grips with their 3D version, I did manage to do my headlight lovers in it but it took me weeks to do it. I use Sketchup for all my 3D stuff now and it is so much easier to use.

    Dirk

  2. #642
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    I have chosen a ground clearance of 5.5 inches for my car, or it might be better to say that that clearance chose me; It is the height at which things work on the front suspension. By 'clearance' I mean the distance between the bottom of the floorpan drops and the ground.

    I popped the wheels on for the first time in months and wound it down to the required clearance.
    Problem number 1, the front shocks are too tall and I'll only get 35mm of suspension travel at this height before touching the bump stop (Pic).
    Problem number 2, The track rods weren't level (they were higher at the wheel end) I managed to tune out most of this buy turning the steering rack to point upwards and I was left with a minor height difference (still higher at the wheel) but I can probably live with this (spirit level bubble just visible in the Pic) a Plan B fix for this is to convert to rose-joint style inner track rod ends, which I could mount higher in the follower (Pic), Any Thoughts? Not sure if such an item exists (M8 hole, M14x 1.5 LH Thread), I will do some investigation.

    Overall a couple of probs there, but it could have been a lot worse, as I have a lot of non-stock parts at the front. Right now I am undecided about purchasing new shocks, I’m thinking I will and I'll also take the opportunity to get a narrower bottom mount so the nylock nut has more thread to grip on.













    I also tested the reverse light switch on the gearbox and I'm pleased to say it works, handy because I don't believe the switch will come out with the 'box in situ in the chassis, it sits too close to the chassis forks (Pic). I would have to slacken the gearbox mounts and push the 'box over to the left (minimum) to get the clearance needed. Top Tip: Do this check with the 'box off the car.



    Last edited by steve; 09-05-2020 at 12:38 AM.

  3. #643
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    Before you do anything with the suspension, finish the car so you have full weight on it then assess again.
    Trust me, I know !

  4. #644
    ***Euro-Nova Supporter*** Spacenut's Avatar
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    I agree - I have a collection of 8 coil springs of various lengths and rates, before I finally found the correct ones!

    I think with the equal length track rods the bump-steer will be minimal, even if the track rods are not exactly level.

    The damper body looks to be very long, with only a minimal amount of stroke, which is not a good combination, although there is precious little travel in the front suspension anyway - my suspension travel is only around 2" max, any more and the tyres would be scraping the underside of the front wings.

    5.5 inches is a good clearance - just make sure the rear suspension is stiff enough to prevent wallowing, or you could wipe the smile off the face of your floorpan drops in a hurry!

    The engineering on your car is absolutely first-class
    only Pythagoras can save me now!

  5. #645
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    Hi Steve
    Ref the rose joints try Simply Bearings they have a wide choice of L/R thread rose joints also they are great for bushes and all sorts of useful items and the delivery is usually next day

    Mike

  6. #646
    Must say I am a little worried about the lack of travel in the front shocks, last thing you want is to bottom out in a pot hole and go solid on the front.



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  7. #647
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    Thanks folks - wise words... I will check out that link as well - cheers

  8. #648
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    I bolted-in the fuel tank to check some clearances and immediately hit a problem.
    The fuel line and mount spigot (on the tank) foul against the torque bar (the bar runs between the 2 rear shock towers).

    There are several mm's to work with there, but the spigot will have to come off, and I will have to change to using (slimmer) 8mm OD hard line in that section which means welding on some attach points. It is a set-back, but I was planning to get the welder back in for some other fuel tank mods, so it shouldn't be too bad.

    The same issue is on the 'return' side of the tank as well, slightly easier on that side because there is no spigot to deal with.



  9. #649
    That is rather annoying, Flatlands did the tank and the torque bar right? I pretty surprised they didn't pick up on this knowing the quality of their usual work.

  10. #650
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    Quote Originally Posted by islandman View Post
    That is rather annoying, Flatlands did the tank and the torque bar right? I pretty surprised they didn't pick up on this knowing the quality of their usual work.
    Hi Dave, The spigot and fuel lines were were installed post-Flatlands, so it's not their fault ...
    I will have to speak to the (ahem) current chassis builder about this ...

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