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Thread: Nova Kitcar Subaru flat-six PPC magazine project car or scoobynova.

  1. #121
    Yep the mark 1’s wrap around and you put the body bolts through them, sandwiching the body, chassis and side sills together.

    From my experience when Flatlands paint the chassis it will look amazing..... makes you cry when you eventually scratch it as I did! I would recommend the stone chip paint finish for the underside though

  2. #122
    ***Euro-Nova Supporter*** Spacenut's Avatar
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    Mk1 sills can be persuaded to wrap around a deeper chassis - my wedges jack the body off the chassis mounting plane by a good 2 inches at the front. Adding depth to the chassis has got to be the most sensible way to increase interior headroom in the Nova. And you can't fault the quality of the work done on the chassis
    only Pythagoras can save me now!

  3. #123
    With the body raised front and rear that will mean that the wheels will sit lower in the arches and require you to lower the suspension to achieve a ‘normal’ look rather than having a large gap right?

  4. #124
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    Quote Originally Posted by Phill View Post
    Looking good Steve, and with the 4" extra space I think you'll have plenty of room particularly with the flat floor which will allow you to get the seat as low as possible. The downside to the flat floor will be some flexing of the sheet metal. Perhaps add in some bracing in the floor area?
    Hello Mate, It wasn't something I was planning TBO,
    I take the point that the VW floor pans are mildly ribbed for strength and the dropped pans aren't.
    The new drops are 1.5mm steel vs the VW floorpans which are 1.2mm, so I hope that strengthening won't be necessary, I'll take a look at this next time I'm up at Flatlands.
    If there is any 'give' in the dropped pans I will speak to FL about it.
    Last edited by steve; 14-03-2018 at 08:28 PM.

  5. #125
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    I note all the comments about raising the body and the effect on the side Sills,
    I want the body to be easily removable from the Chassis without removing the Sills or front undertray for that matter.

    The plan is to cut away the side sills to allow clearance for body removal, re-attaching the sills to the main tub (with bolts or 'glass) as necessary. I'm tempted by the side-skirts that some of the US cars have... but I may be persuaded otherwise...

    Ditto for the front undertray which will have significant amounts cut away such that it comes away with the body when removed from the chassis.

    As you may have guessed, I'm not keen on attaching/bolting fibreglass panels underneath the chassis, it's a design compromise too far in my view.

  6. #126
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    Quote Originally Posted by islandman View Post
    With the body raised front and rear that will mean that the wheels will sit lower in the arches and require you to lower the suspension to achieve a ‘normal’ look rather than having a large gap right?
    Hi Dave, Yes that's the plan.
    The suspension will be set 30mm lower to offset the height of the box section on the pan.
    It will work better at the front (I believe), as the lower suspension will be close to stock height, i.e the geometry will be right and the track rods will have less chance of fouling the main tube at full lock.

    At the back I'm concerned about too much negative camber, we'll see.

    I hear your paint (stonechip) recommendations, any other thoughts on chassis paint finish?

  7. #127
    Quote Originally Posted by steve View Post
    At the back I'm concerned about too much negative camber, we'll see.
    Perhaps go for a bigger wheel and tyre combination to help fill the arches?
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  8. #128
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    Quote Originally Posted by steve View Post
    I

    Ditto for the front undertray which will have significant amounts cut away such that it comes away with the body when removed from the chassis.
    The under tray bolted to the chassis does give the nose support, without it you will need to add extra metal to hold the nose up or it will droop.

    Dirk

  9. #129
    Senior Member BlueNova's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dirk View Post
    The under tray bolted to the chassis does give the nose support, without it you will need to add extra metal to hold the nose up or it will droop.

    Dirk
    I can vouch for that Dirk! I can't remember why I cut away the undertray around 1990, but it certainly helped me lift my de-seamed body from the chassis last year. However, my nose did appear to droop .... in fact if I took hold of the front edge of the body I could actually move it up and down

    The longer undertray is clearly designed to give the body greater rigitity, but I'm happy to go with less undertray and extra metal to support the nose, so that in future (someone else!!) can raise the de-seamed body from the chassis with ease!

    Alistair

  10. #130
    Although only one of the many differences between the Cimbria/Eagle SS and the Stirling/Nova the former has a one piece body, sides and nose but the structure of the front section is very different having internal box sections but still benefits from support from the front of the chassis to the 'boot' and from what I know of the Nova a steel sub-frame would be needed.

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