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Thread: Nova Kitcar Subaru flat-six PPC magazine project car or scoobynova.

  1. #461
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dirk View Post
    It looks very nice, was there a reason going for 2-pack paint over powder coating?

    Dirk
    Hello Mate,
    I made the decision to go for paint, I didn't really consider the alternatives.

    Zinc plate or galvanised with powder coat on top sounds interesting(?)
    but with a Nova's dropped floorpans sitting just a few ins above the tarmac, whatever coating you (or I) choose is unlikely last an encounter with speed bumps; touch-ups will be needed over time.

    I wish I'd asked the paint shop for a pot of matching Stonechip.

  2. #462
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    Well, I'm definitely getting the Flu Jab *next* year.
    And I have learned that the hard way, with 4 days of 'downtime' over Xmas and I've drunk more Lemsips than you can shake a stick at.

    But what better way to celebrate my return to health than a December night in the garage this very evening!

    Anyway, the plan for the Chassis is to put lots of wiring & pipes inside the main tube; (brake/clutch hydraulic lines, petrol, electrics, main power to Starter), but for painting the pipes/wires (loose ends) had to be 'tucked back in' to the tube and taped-up plastic bags;

    Today I started to put things back where they should be - fitting out the main chassis tube in fact.

    The hydraulics fittings are back out now (see side of Frame head below) the paint is thick and some of the holes needed to be opened up.

    I used some expandable braided sleeving on the main starter cable, it was simple enough to slide it over the cable at the battery end, then up inside the tube. There is a 40mm high plate in the main tube (level with the pedals) that the cable runs under, so the sleeving needed to go past the plate to better protect the cable (thereafter it's clipped in).

    Its the first time I have used that sleeving, it's good stuff, I think CBS do it as well as 12v planet: https://www.12voltplanet.co.uk/expan...-sleeving.html

    The chassis will have its own basic wiring to allow the engine to run with the body off.
    A basic wiring loom will run from an outlet in the main tube in front of the gear lever (pic shows the main loom cable coming up through the outlet) running to the rear where the 2 forks meet the tube, then it routes up the side of the fuel tank.

    I made up the loom this evening and pulled it through a conduit left in there by Flatlands (see pic), after the pic was taken I fitted the 'Y' piece to the conduit and routed 3 wires to the driver’s side chassis fork (fuel pump, earth and starter solenoid).

    Still more to do on this, but nice to be back in business.





    Last edited by steve; 28-12-2019 at 01:01 AM.

  3. #463
    Owners Register Admin & Euro-Nova Supporter BlueNova's Avatar
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    Looking good Steve, and glad you’re over the ‘lurgy’. I recall you were considering how you were going to treat the inside of the tunnel, rear horns, & naps hat etc ... It’s difficult to tell from the photos (is your treatment a clear finish?) but hopefully you’ve already done that
    Alistair

  4. #464
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    Quote Originally Posted by BlueNova View Post
    Looking good Steve, and glad you’re over the ‘lurgy’. I recall you were considering how you were going to treat the inside of the tunnel, rear horns, & naps hat etc ... It’s difficult to tell from the photos (is your treatment a clear finish?) but hopefully you’ve already done that
    Alistair
    Cheers man,
    I wanted to sort out the in-tube pipework before rustproofing; Once Waxoyl gets in there everything becomes a sticky nightmare! So rustproofing the tube comes next;

    The plan is to raise the rear of the chassis a few inches and pour in (yeah I said pour) warmed & thinned Waxoyl into the front of the tube.
    This will coat the base and ~1 inch of the tube sides, it will flood into the Naps head, front of frame head and crucially flow down the sides into the 'boxed in' areas at the lower front of the head (see pic - a water trap).

    vwframeheadrust.jpg


    Then I'll level off the chassis to let the Waxoyl coat the mid-section of the tube (I will help with an extended paint brush as needed), then I'll raise the front so the 'Oyl flows down to the rear forks (firstly with the Cradle end-bolts in) then remove the bolts to drain the excess 'Oyl.
    That's the plan.

  5. #465
    Owners Register Admin & Euro-Nova Supporter BlueNova's Avatar
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    Hi Steve,

    Sounds like an excellent plan for the most ‘at risk’ lower sections in the bottom 1”.

    As an alternative (or supplement) to using an extended paint brush I can recommend a hand pumped 5 litre pressure sprayer like the sort of thing you use for weed killer. They’re cheap to buy from any diy/garden centre. If it’s got a long enough hose you can feed it through the tunnel as far as possible, pressurise it and then slowly pull it back through, thereby spraying as much as possible above your 1” level. Hope that’s helpful.

    Cheers, Alistair

  6. #466
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    I thought waxoil did their own spray kit with a long hose. I am sure that would be better than pouring?

    Dirk

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    Thanks both, I am going to stick to the plan, but may try to use a fine mist spray for the Napoleon's hat area.
    Appreciate the advice :-)

  8. #468
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    Well, I have managed to get the Chassis Waxoyled; And the job was a royal PITA.
    I ended up using most of the 5L Can of the black stuff, but in fairness about a quarter of it is embedded into my clothing, and a lot ended up on the garage floor. And walls. I even managed to swallow some when attempting to blow-out one of the sprayer lines. I have just spent a very happy 2 hours cleaning it all up.

    The problem area of the chassis is the framehead which is a complex shape, and obviously I wanted to coat every surface.

    I was concerned about three water-traps in the Head; firstly the 'channel' under the Napolean's Hat, and secondly/thirdly the 2 'chambers' on either side of the frame head (where the 4 bolts go through). The pic of the rotted-out framehead (below) shows the 2 side chambers that need to be treated; the main tube is easy to access via the removable cover plate at the front of the chassis.

    Anyway in my wisdom, I poured thinned Waxoyl through the cover plate hole into the maintube, this drains into the bottom of the 2 side chambers via a 1cm wide channel on either side of the tube. I used a cable tie pushed through the channel to spread the 'Oyl around as much as possible, although there is no way to see what you are doing.

    For the upper sections of the side chambers I used the Waxoyl 360 degree spray Wand;
    On the drivers side, I put the wand into 2 vent(?) holes in the side of the head (Pic).
    For the passengers side chamber, I drilled an 8mm hole for the spray wand (Pic), I didn't want to drill; but I couldn't see how else to fully coat the inside of what is closed-in chamber.

    For napoleon's hat area, (and particularly the channel underneath) a made up squeegee bottle with long tube (Black bottle in one of the pics) I fed this into the Napoleon's hat channel from the inside of the tube (long skinny arms required) and flooded the channel, I also used the 360 Degree wand for upper part of the Nap's hat.

    This all sounds very straight forward but it was nightmare getting the 'Oyl to flow into the right places on a cold night. (the advice about warming up the 'Oyl is essential) it doesn't flow well when it hits cold metal.

    Really pleased to have got this job over the line...

    Some pictures squiffy due to my new phone -Sorry

    This pic shows a rusty Napoleon's Hat 'channel' on the left and the (UK) drivers side chamber cut-away, getting 'Oyl into the 2 chambers was tricky.



    Water trap under the Napoleon's Hat:



    Other water trap; the Side chambers particularly the lower sections;



    8mm hole drilled to allow the spray wand access to the passenger-side chamber:




    Pre-heating the 'Oyl before spraying, the note the home-brew Black squeegy used for the Nap's head channel:



    After the internals were Oyl'd, I sprayed WD40 'Long lasting' grease into lap jointed areas between box section and floorpan then I went around the chassis touching in dry areas/seams with Waxoyl using a kids paintbrush.
    Inside the Box section tube was sprayed with normal WD40 which flowed better along the inside of the tube. I have found WD40 to be an effective rust preventative on (boxed-in) new metal.

  9. #469
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    I forgot this Pic, this shows 2 vent(?) holes that give access to the (UK) Drivers 'side chamber'.
    The 360 degree Waxoyl Spray wand slots into these nicely.
    On the passenger side there is no equivalent holes, so the choice was to ignore this section. or drill an access hole.


  10. #470
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    Quote Originally Posted by steve View Post
    I forgot this Pic, this shows 2 vent(?) holes that give access to the (UK) Drivers 'side chamber'.
    The 360 degree Waxoyl Spray wand slots into these nicely.
    On the passenger side there is no equivalent holes, so the choice was to ignore this section. or drill an access hole.
    I agree about drilling an access hole because it's an area of the chassis you can't see. You could tap the hole to enable a bolt to be inserted to seal it and allow future access if required. ... but perhaps it might get in the way of the front beam? If so then a rubber grommet or similar to keep the water out.

    I was fortunate(?) to have full access to both areas because I had to replace the frame head bottom plate, so I primed and painted the insides before fitting the plate and then sprayed rust converter inside in case the welding had scorched any of the paint. Whilst I wasn't able to spray rust converter into the small passenger area you're talking about, I was satisfied that the primer and paint should suffice given the sort of driving (ie not daily) that I anticipate.

    Alistair

    Last edited by BlueNova; 18-01-2020 at 11:09 PM.

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