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Thread: slow cranking...tight engine..?

  1. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by wizrod View Post
    So now that the engine is out, I have the opportunity to spruce up the engine bay.

    Does anyone have any advice on removing 30+ years of oil, & road dirt from GRP...? I'm think repeated doses of Gunk/Jizer, elbow grease & and stiff brush & a high pressure jet wash...?

    Ideally, I'd like get to the stage where I can paint the engine bay. Oil & dirt on top of GRP on black gel-coat makes for a dark & murky place, so I was thinking of a coat of silver to brighten things up a bit and to give it a bit more of a serviceable appearance. I know it's going to get mucky again... but its the thought that counts!

    I think I may even bite the bullet & relocate the roof pump to the front & relocate the external oil cooler to take advantage of one of the air scoops in the front under-tray.

    P.
    If the engine's out, protect your electricals and start with a hot jet wash or steam clean, then assess whats left

  2. #22
    Quote Originally Posted by wizrod View Post
    So now that the engine is out, I have the opportunity to spruce up the engine bay.

    Does anyone have any advice on removing 30+ years of oil, & road dirt from GRP...? I'm think repeated doses of Gunk/Jizer, elbow grease & and stiff brush & a high pressure jet wash...?

    P.
    I have always had good results with Gunk. Does work better when warm though. Degreasing beetle engines I run them and then when warm brush on gunk and rinse off.

    If you have a garden pressure sprayer (the pump up type some people use for wallpaper stripping etc) load it up with warm water and spray around over gunk and brush around.
    All the best,

    Jim

    Club Nova Member, SDBC Member, GRRC Member, Southern Classics



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  3. #23
    Senior Member wizrod's Avatar
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    I agree about Gunk.. it worked wonders on the heads, case & tinware.

    I was just concerned that given that GRP is porous, the muck in the engine bay will be well & truly ingrained, so I though it might need some extra 'encouragement'.

    I'll certainly give the hot-soapy water thing a try

    I don't have access to a specifically hot water kit wash, but I have a simple cold water one that seemed to work well on the motor parts.

    I wonder if some form if stain-blocking undercoat might work...?
    cheers

    Paul

  4. #24
    Senior Member wizrod's Avatar
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    Well, a rather soggy evening spent with a squirt can of Gunk and a jet wash has proved rather successful. the engine is no where near 'clean' - there is still an oily film over most surfaces, but it is definitely a significant improvement! The next process, I think, will be the application of large amounts of elbow grease through the medium of a scrubbing brush & lots of hot soapy water.

    This is all very cathartic. With the engine out, I now have the opportunity to fix a bunch of niggly little problems that have been too much bother to actually do until now.

    P.
    cheers

    Paul

  5. #25
    Quote Originally Posted by Spacenut View Post
    Was the engine any easier to turn by hand with the engine out of the car? I was just wondering if the gearbox input shaft might be bent?

    Lauren
    If the clutch plate was bolted in place slightly off centre could this have the same effect. Just a thought?
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  6. #26
    Senior Member wizrod's Avatar
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    Hmmm...the motor is going back together, but I've run into a problem. The pushrod tubes seem too long....or the space where they fit is too short.

    Basically, they start to bend as I tighten the head up, with the seals squishing out the holes in the head.

    The new (stock) tubes seem the same length as the set I removed on disassembly. I haven't missed fitting any additional spacers (there weren't any originally) and the deck height is 60 thou.

    So what have I missed?
    cheers

    Paul

  7. #27
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    Hmm, I know the tubes are meant to compress a little, they're designed to do that, but what you're saying doesn't sound right, can you show us a picture of what its doing please? a picture is worth a thousand words, after all

  8. #28
    The only thing I can think of is are the old seals still in place either on the crankcase or the head so with fitting new pushrod tubes you are fitting new seals on top of the old seals?
    "The most beautiful kit car in the world - Motor"

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  9. #29
    Senior Member wizrod's Avatar
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    Well, I got them to play ball. I ended up tightening the heads down very snowly and tweaking any tubes that started to bend back to straight.

    They certainly seem a little odd. You are right, Gaisa, I'd have expected to slightly stretch and for them to compress back to normal length as the heads get tightened down.

    Anyway, I now have long block that turns as smoothly as it should. Still some jobs to be done before it goes back in...not least as I'm still waiting on the postman to deliver some odds 'n' sods...but definite progress.
    cheers

    Paul

  10. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by wizrod View Post
    Well, I got them to play ball. I ended up tightening the heads down very snowly and tweaking any tubes that started to bend back to straight.

    They certainly seem a little odd. You are right, Gaisa, I'd have expected to slightly stretch and for them to compress back to normal length as the heads get tightened down.

    Anyway, I now have long block that turns as smoothly as it should. Still some jobs to be done before it goes back in...not least as I'm still waiting on the postman to deliver some odds 'n' sods...but definite progress.
    Glad it worked out for you in the end!
    Its been about 20ish years since I last played with a VW boxer engine, but those sleeves were something I remembered as a sharp edged pain in the rear end! When I had to replace mine, I had to do the bolts up evenly to keep things balanced, it worked for me

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