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Thread: Wiring loom

  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dirk View Post
    If you are going to use any sort of crimp connectors make sure you have the correct ratchet crimp tool and do not solder the connectors. It might be a bit expensive but will last a life time and do a much better job.

    Dirk
    Hi Dirk, What is best practice on this?
    Care to post some links to the best tools for building a home-brew loom?
    There seems to be a lot of interest in this.

  2. #12
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    I'm not really sure what is best practice, but for me I will try and crimp wherever possible with the correct ratchet tool for the connector. I don't like soldered joints on connectors that move or vibrate (most connectors in a car) as they become brittle and any flexing will cause a fracture at some point. the only time I will solder on a car is joining two wires and then I tin both wires seperatley but don't twist them hold them together and fuse then cover with heat shrink. I try and avoid insulated terminals wherever possible (but sometimes you do need to use them) I would rather use uninsulated ones and buy boots it makes a much better connection it does mean you need another tool.

    Dirk

  3. #13
    ***Euro-Nova Supporter*** Spacenut's Avatar
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    I would agree with Dirk - crimp provides a more reliable electrical connection in a high vibration environment. We use crimp connections on all of our spacecraft harness at work for the same reason (launch vibration).

    That hasn't stopped me using solder on the Cannon connectors though

    Lauren

    PS - I have a ratchet tool for insulated connectors and a crimp tool for non-insulated. If I was to choose just one it would be the non-insulated tool, as Dirk recommends. You can buy insulating boots separately.
    only Pythagoras can save me now!

  4. #14
    I intend to complete the wiring on my car during the Christmas holidays so have been on line and ordered up some of the parts I need. However, the highly recomended CBS module (https://www.carbuildersolutions.com/...-wiring-module) is currentlyl out of stock with no indication of when it will be back in (I emailed but so far no reply). My dilema is do I go down a different route and buy the individual fusebox and relays and attempt to wire it all up by myself, or wait for the CBS module to become available again in what I hope will make for an easier install? Problem is of course I may not get the part before the Christmas break and so miss the opportunity this will give me to spend some extended time working on the car. If I can't get the CBS module what other alternatives are there?
    "The most beautiful kit car in the world - Motor"

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  5. #15
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    I've not seen anything else like the CBS unit, but I guess it depends on how deep you want to go with it? the CBS unit is simple and easy, but lacks some of the more refined things that we are used to with more modern day cars ( lights fused separately either side intermittent wash wipe) ect. Both my last Nova and the Avante use the fuse box from a Metro lots of extra fuses and relays for add-ons. But obviously lots more work. I do have modified schematics and wiring diagrams if you want to go down that route.

    Dirk

  6. #16
    Quick question - where's the best place to mount a fusebox in the Nova and why?
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  7. #17
    It may sound silly but "Where you can reach it"!

    Mine is in the drivers footwell at the side forward of the hydraulic ram recesses. It seemed like a good idea at the time when I was building the loom, but I have to be a contortionist to take the lid off and check fuses. And if the canopy is down its downright impossible.

  8. #18
    Euro-Nova Founder bobbybrown's Avatar
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    Little more expensive Phill but this place looks to have stock http://www.kitcardirect.co.uk/shop-k...ng-module.html
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  9. #19
    ***Euro-Nova Supporter*** Spacenut's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by islandman View Post
    It may sound silly but "Where you can reach it"!

    Mine is in the drivers footwell at the side forward of the hydraulic ram recesses. It seemed like a good idea at the time when I was building the loom, but I have to be a contortionist to take the lid off and check fuses. And if the canopy is down its downright impossible.
    Ditto for me - although my fuse board doesn't have a cover, so is probably a bit easier to reach and/or replace. I have all my important relays there as well (indicator flasher, main beam, headlights etc. Only the wiper and horn relays are inaccessible. Even the canopy relay is now accessible, at a pinch

    For proper accessibility you would have to do what the rally cars do and have the board on the passenger side of the dash...
    only Pythagoras can save me now!

  10. #20
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    On my Nova mine was mounted under the dash on the drivers side, but I made a frame so I could flip it down at the back so the board went vertical and you could see it, it was still awkward with the steering wheel in the way.
    On the Avante I mounted it under the dash but on the passenger side, but I didn't make the flip frame ( a bit of a mistake and something I will redo) now when I want to change a fuse I am upside down in the foot well.

    Dirk

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