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Thread: Wiring loom

  1. #21
    ***Euro-Nova Supporter***
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    If you look through my build thread you will see that I fitted mine in the passenger footwell behind a flip door.
    I thought this was a really good idea, but once I put the dash back in its was surprising how far back it was !! Still accessible though.

    If I recall Mostin hid his within the rear tunnel area, but most people made comment that if a fuse did go he would have to pull the tunnel out.

    I used the CBS module which is a really good bit of kit and very easy to understand and install. If you have any concerns with electrics, this is the best way to go.

  2. #22
    Thanks for the suggestions. Seems like the footwell is the most popular location. I had considered fitting it in the front compartment for ease of access. Any reasons why the front compartment is a bad idea? I'm guessing it's best to keep the fuses near to the switches or is there another reason?
    "The most beautiful kit car in the world - Motor"

    http://stores.lulu.com/rightsigns


  3. #23
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    I was gonna say,
    “You want to be near the relays and fuses if the roof fails” but that may need to some comments 😂👍

  4. #24
    It's OK - my Car has an escape hatch...
    "The most beautiful kit car in the world - Motor"

    http://stores.lulu.com/rightsigns


  5. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by Phill View Post
    Thanks for the suggestions. Seems like the footwell is the most popular location. I had considered fitting it in the front compartment for ease of access. Any reasons why the front compartment is a bad idea? I'm guessing it's best to keep the fuses near to the switches or is there another reason?

    There is no need to keep it nearer the switches other than you use a little less wire. If you are putting it in the front I think some sort of waterproof enclosure would be a good idea its not the best sealed area but other than that I don't see an issue and easy to get to in the event of a failure when the roof is down and you are outside.

    Dirk

  6. #26
    Senior Member bushboy's Avatar
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    I am contemplating the same issue at the moment with The Golf Kart. Where to put the fuse board.

    I am leaning towards the monkey seat in the front boot area (The square bit just behind the battery tray) Should be dry enough and CBS do a nice cover for their fuse board.

    As for roof lift fuse failure, I will just run a non-fused "HOT" feed via an "emergency open only" switch.

    Bushboy
    "Always do what you are afraid to do"
    "I can accept failure, but I can't accept not trying"

  7. #27
    Quote Originally Posted by bushboy View Post
    I am contemplating the same issue at the moment with The Golf Kart. Where to put the fuse board.

    I am leaning towards the monkey seat in the front boot area (The square bit just behind the battery tray) Should be dry enough and CBS do a nice cover for their fuse board.

    As for roof lift fuse failure, I will just run a non-fused "HOT" feed via an "emergency open only" switch.

    Bushboy
    Only issue with the front area would be damp / moisture etc... If its well sealed should be ok.

    I would caution against a totally "Hot" feed. Put a feed with an overly high fuse 80amp - 100amp etc... because if the pump has seized for example you don't want to have the ability to keep pushing the hot feed button only to have the wires smoke and go up in flames whilst you are stuck inside.

  8. #28
    I have mine, with a relay block, on the right back wall of the boot. Very close to foot well but accessible.

    008.jpg

    The opinions expressed in my posts may not be made in a sound mind and should be taken in the spirit intended, Jack Daniels is fine.
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  9. #29
    The modifications manual is a mine of useful information:-

    I've had a hard copy for many years but have only recently realised how detailed it is at describing the wiring for a Nova

    http://www.euro-nova.co.uk/downloads...ons_manual.pdf

    I'm basing my loom around the description in the manual beginning on page 80. Various diagrams are scattered throughout the manual (e.g page 136-140 for the lighting circuits and 179 for the wiper circuit. All use the same numbering system to identify each wire and is the system I will be adopting. I've also decided against the CBS board and have instead opted to buy separate fuseboxes (one will be fed from the ignition to provide live feeds only when the ignition is on, the other will be fed direct from the battery to provide live feed at all times to the roof pump and sidelight, hazard warning circuits).
    "The most beautiful kit car in the world - Motor"

    http://stores.lulu.com/rightsigns


  10. #30
    ***Euro-Nova Supporter*** Spacenut's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bushboy View Post
    As for roof lift fuse failure, I will just run a non-fused "HOT" feed via an "emergency open only" switch.
    This is similar to "battle short", where circuit breakers are bypassed for emergency operation (I am thinking of Apollo mission control but obviously there was previous precedent in warships etc.).

    Some older cars had similar features - my old Firenza flat-front (the droop snoot was extensively re-wired) had the headlight circuits directly connected with a bi-metallic circuit breaker (resets when the load is reduced), and my Baccaruda once suffered a short in the secondary lighting circuit, but the headlamps stayed on - which was useful, as I still had 20 miles to get home and it was getting dark...
    only Pythagoras can save me now!

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