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Thread: Wiring loom

  1. #31
    ***Euro-Nova Supporter*** Peter's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Spacenut View Post
    This is similar to "battle short", where circuit breakers are bypassed for emergency operation (I am thinking of Apollo mission control but obviously there was previous precedent in warships etc.).

    Some older cars had similar features - my old Firenza flat-front (the droop snoot was extensively re-wired) had the headlight circuits directly connected with a bi-metallic circuit breaker (resets when the load is reduced), and my Baccaruda once suffered a short in the secondary lighting circuit, but the headlamps stayed on - which was useful, as I still had 20 miles to get home and it was getting dark...
    What about the Triumph Herald? 2 fuses, one ignition (+15), one live (+30) so simple.
    The opinions expressed in my posts may not be made in a sound mind and should be taken in the spirit intended, Jack Daniels is fine. Autism isn't something you get or can be 'cured of', it is the way we are wired, differently.

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  2. #32
    ***Euro-Nova Supporter*** Spacenut's Avatar
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    Very true, the older the design, the fewer the number of fuses. My '66 HA Viva had four fuses in total. There again, it wasn't exactly awash with comfort and convenience features!
    only Pythagoras can save me now!

  3. #33
    Senior Member bushboy's Avatar
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    Phil,
    You are on the right track. That is basically how the CBS unit is wired. A bunch of fused fed from Battery/Alternator and the others from the ACC position & then "fuel pump" coil from the ignition position.

    You can get some very nice Fuse & relay boxes from the "Chinese type" internet shops (Wish, Alibaba etc). You may have to wait a week or month.

    Cheers
    Bushboy
    "Always do what you are afraid to do"
    "I can accept failure, but I can't accept not trying"

  4. #34
    Senior Member Phill's Avatar
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    Another quick question for you wiring Gurus out there. I'm planning to use 1mm cable to feed the rear lights. Do I need to run seperate cables to feed the n/s and o/s tail lights wiring them in parallel or can I just run one cable and wire them in series along with the number plate lights? Likewise with the front indicators where there are two n/s and two o/s indicators on the front (Beside the headlight and on the outside of the wing) - can I wire these in series or should they be wired in parrallel? The same question applies to the brake lights and instrument panel lights?

    From what I can make out from the modifications manual all this wiring is done in series
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  5. #35
    ***Euro-Nova Supporter*** Spacenut's Avatar
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    Hi Phill - I would say wire in series for the sidelights and tail lights - they are only 6W filament bulbs (less if you have LEDs), so only draw a paltry 500 mA each. But the headlights will benefit from parallel wiring. I followed the Alfa wiring practice of separately fusing individual headlamps, with 8A fuses, instead of a single 32A. This arrangement appealed because of the improved first-failure redundancy, although it did require a bigger fuse board...

    Lauren
    only Pythagoras can save me now!

  6. #36
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    I would agree with Lauren on the side lights they are not really that important if its dark enough for lights then dip beam go on, but tail lights want to be individually fused if a fuse blows you still have at least one taillight all of my lights are fused separately left to right.

    Dirk

  7. #37
    I did a bit of an over kill with the 21 way Fuse Block when I built my loom, most things have their own, but lights front and rear are fused separately left to right for the reason Dirk stated.

  8. #38
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    When I wired up my dashboard I stuck plastic cable tie retainers onto the underside of the dashboard and used cable ties to secure the harness. This way it could be routed neatly and won't hang/swing around. I used two pack epoxy glue 'for plastics' to stick the retainers. I can't emphasise the importance of keying the surface of both parts here - I roughed up and scored them in multiple directions with a knife and dremel cutting wheel. I've also used one to secure the starter circuit relay. It would of course be possible, pre-trimming, to secure some of them (depending on location) through a countersunk hole in the dash with a setscrew.

    In the last photo you can see, like Islandman, I have also colour coordinated the wiring. 12V illumination feed is RED, earth is BLACK and 12v ignition feed is GREEN. All other cables mostly have unique other colours. All my wiring (cable colours, from and to etc.) has been documented on a chart.

    I successfully re-wired the nova in 1997. Since then, in 2013, the dash has been rewired due to the changes in many of the components.

    Photo 20-01-2019, 13 48 25.jpg

    Photo 20-01-2019, 13 47 52.jpg

    Photo 20-01-2019, 13 47 35.jpg

    Photo 20-01-2019, 13 49 39.jpg

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