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Thread: Chassis Paints?

  1. #11
    Quote Originally Posted by BlueNova View Post
    Forgive my indulgence, but I got home from work early tonight
    See Dirk's build is certainly infectious, coming home from work early to work on the car .

    Before you know it you won't go to work at all just like Dirk to work on the car

    Its looking great and loving the progress and posting

  2. #12
    Senior Member BlueNova's Avatar
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    Apr 2015
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    St Andrews, Scotland
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    Quote Originally Posted by Phill View Post
    Fantastic.. I can feel a trip to St. Andrews coming up soon
    You're welcome any time Phill !!

    ... and Lauren, I went pretty much with the dimensions in the Modifications Manual, but I'm 'height challenged' so have limited the drop to 2.5". I also sloped the rear drop panel at 45' after Dirk said he'd had problems reversing off ramps etc. Thanks for the tip about low reflective paint

    David, I'm finding working on the Nova a bit like doing exercise ... the more you do the more you want to do!

    Alistair

  3. #13
    ***Euro-Nova Supporter***
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
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    Hailsham, E Sussex
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    I used POR15 on my chassis and floors, very good stuff but a tad expensive.

    And as I have said many times, 5 minutes every day is forward progress to finishing the car.

    Looking good..

  4. #14
    I have found hammerite/smoothrite brilliant and simple on metalwork under cars in the past. Even quick jobs where I have wire brushed but not fully removed all rust seem to last 8 years +. An alternative was getting a chassis blasted and powder coated. I am welding an old Mercedes Vito at the moment, and the rust has got under the factory underseal all over the thing. I am peeling it off in sheets. It has only done 73K miles. There was obviously very little under the underseal. I bet hammerite then watered down tetraseal is a nice professional looking compromise. You could then rattle can a thin mist of body colour over the top if you wanted colour coding.

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