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Thread: 009

  1. #421
    while hunting around on your numbers I did find a cheapish spare cluster if you need one

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/2012-2013-F...-/274647300816

  2. #422
    ***Euro-Nova Supporter*** Peter's Avatar
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    Looks like the Australian version .
    The opinions expressed in my posts may not be made in a sound mind and should be taken in the spirit intended, Jack Daniels is fine.
    Some people see things as they are and ask why? I dream things that never were and ask, why not?” JFK
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  3. #423
    Quote Originally Posted by Peter View Post
    Looks like the Australian version .


    err....why do you say that? It location is Florida?

  4. #424
    Senior Member Brett's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by islandman View Post
    while hunting around on your numbers I did find a cheapish spare cluster if you need one

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/2012-2013-F...-/274647300816
    Thats a good price.

    At the yards here it would cost me $27 USD + taxes

    Well I went to the yard today and pulled the oem fuel level sender(to my surprise it was still there)

    Empty 179.6 ohms

    Full 10.0 ohms

    OK it still has issues(maybe)
    When you turn the switch on the gauge works fine but move the float and nothing happens.
    Like MartinB said there maybe a long dwell time. I waited for over 30 seconds and still the gauge wont move, but turn the ignition off and back on the gauge moves to the correct reading.
    Not sure whats going on but at least I know the ohm range now and can calibrate the Subaru sending unit to the fuel level gauge.

  5. #425
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    Long shot is it possible the needle on the gauge is slightly bent and catching the face? So as you switch on the initial surge is enough to move the needle but then slight variations are not? Have you tried switching the ignition on at 3 different levels of the sender full empty and half full and see if the gauge shows the correct amount each time?

    Dirk

  6. #426
    Senior Member Brett's Avatar
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    Gauge is working properly. No issues of it hanging up.
    If I move the (oem)float to any position and then turn the ignition on the needle will go to that position with no issues.

    Tried to (note the word tried)installing the fuel gauge interface module so the Subaru petrol level sending units would be calibrated to the gauge and that didn't want to work.

    Its not that hard to install(I thought), according to the instructions it goes between the gauge and the sending unit, countless hours later it still isn't working.

    Then in the instructions it says don't wire it to 12v, that will void all and any warranty. Well after testing the wires the wire from the gauge is putting out 12v so I may have fried the module by installing it where they said to install it.

  7. #427
    ***Euro-Nova Supporter*** Peter's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by islandman View Post
    err....why do you say that? It location is Florida?
    'cause it's upside down,

    The output wire from the gauge would be live as it has 12v in from ignition and it just doesn't disappear.
    The variation of that voltage caused by the two in-line resistors of the sender unit must drag that value down to the ECU and the difference is shown on the gauge and is read as such as a value by the ECU. at least that is how I see it.

    SO say, empty would be 0 Ohms and 12VDC needle would not move, full might be say, 100Ohm and the voltage drop to 6VDC and the needle moves to full. Or visa-versa.

    You can check that with the multi meter, 12v in and meter on the output and to earth set to 20VDC. reading with zero resistance should read 12v or near it.

    Move sender to maximum resistance and read voltage.
    Last edited by Peter; 24-07-2021 at 10:30 AM.
    The opinions expressed in my posts may not be made in a sound mind and should be taken in the spirit intended, Jack Daniels is fine.
    Some people see things as they are and ask why? I dream things that never were and ask, why not?” JFK
    Genuine and an original, "Grumpy old mechanic".

    http://ukhozi.page.tl

  8. #428
    Senior Member Brett's Avatar
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    Peter I think your right.
    So another issue to deal with. A while back you warned me of such possible issues when updating the dash and then I wasn't sure what you were talking about but now I do.
    I was thinking of changing out the instruments to analog but when I disconnected the instrument panel the center display panel stopped working.
    To replace this system with another is not an option right now. To many other circuits are working fine to do that.

    OK to give me time to think of how to fix that problem I wired the interior lights in. They turn on when the canopy is open and off when closed.(It works!)
    P8180005.jpg

    Lights off
    P8180010.jpg

    Lights on
    P8180013.jpg

    P8180009.jpg

  9. #429
    ***Euro-Nova Supporter*** BlueNova's Avatar
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    I've never thought about interior lights for a Nova/Sterling .... what a brilliant idea Brett!

  10. #430
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    Quote Originally Posted by BlueNova View Post
    I've never thought about interior lights for a Nova/Sterling .... what a brilliant idea Brett!

    Mmmm not sure I see the point, if your car is a play thing like mine and most others, having driven it once in the dark you will avoid it as much as possible its not the nicest experience. Whilst I love most of Bret's ideas (keep them coming) I'm not sure the position will offer much light assistance once the seat is in ?

    Dirk

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