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[Peter]

http://www.euro-nova.co.uk/vb/showth...-stripe-tracer



"With my luck, if I did that I'd get the gauge wrong or wire it to the wrong circuit(ACC/ON, Start/ON, Hot at all times) or maybe the circuit would need a relay or the circuit that is wired can't handle the amperage. Whatever the case would be I know I'd get it wrong".

I am sure a man of your capabilities would get it right.

For general information;

It is really quite simple, just a matter of adding up all the amps of the units on a circuit, so simple example would be headlights, dip. two x 55what is 120 watts (plus 10W for dash and main beam warning lights), divided by 12 is 10Amps so a 10 amp fuse/cable would be the minimum. and I always add at least 10% so I would go 16.5A for the one up to fuse and wire. From switch to relay to fuses 16A and then drop to 11amp after the split for each light. basically, apart from the heavy stuff like starter solinoid feed, (11A) and battery/ starter cables (57A) everything else it would be OK to use 11 amp thin wall.

Technical stuff;

All cables are made up of a number of strands. Generally these strands are 0.20mm or 0.30mm diameter. This also give the cross sectional area in sq mm and the continuous current carrying capacity in amps. The breakdown of the cable specification 28/0.30mm, 2mm2, 25amp is as follows: 28 strands of 0.30mm diameter, 2mm2 cross sectional area, 25amp continuous current carrying capacity.

The following equation may prove useful to work out a cable size required : Watts divided by Volts = Amps

Coloured cables. When two colours are given, the first colour is the main colour, the second colour is the 'tracer' (usually two thin traces of colour which run straight down the cable). eg. Black/white has black as the main colour and white as the tracer colour.


And for the yanks;

AWG22 0.50mm2
AWG20 0.50mm2
AWG18 1.00mm2
AWG16 1.50mm2
AWG14 2.50mm2
AWG12 4.00mm2
AWG10 6.00mm2
AWG8 10.00mm2
AWG6 16.00mm2
AWG4 25.00mm2
AWG2 35.00mm2
AWG1 50.00mm2
AWG2/0 70.00mm2

[islandman]

http://www.euro-nova.co.uk/vb/showth...-stripe-tracer.

Thanks Brett, I knew I'd seen a post before but no matter what I searched I didn't find it. Very helpful thanks. There are many places you can get wiring, but the correct colour, and tracer wires with the right amperage to match the manufacturers are not easy to come by

[islandman]

Vehicle Wiring products, They will sell you 1/2 a meter of any combination of wire and they have various Amp and all the fittings. I did all my car in BL code for 30 quid.

www.vehiclewiringproducts.co.uk

I looked at these before Peter, they just don't have the various colour combos to match a modern loom from a Subaru

[Brett]

Radiator came in today, fan should arrive tomorrow

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I have to rewire the windscreen washer pump. I wired it not thinking that it went through the BCM. Hot wire from switch and earth to chassis. Well after checking the oem wiring diagrams the switch grounds the circuit not supply the power.
No biggie, no damage done just wasted some time

[Peter]

I looked at these before Peter, they just don't have the various colour combos to match a modern loom from a Subaru

What colour combination are you looking for? In the 16.5A range they do most combinations, only single colours in the 11A stuff.

[Brett]

As mentioned in the "sealing large holes post" I have other items I was working on while I did that write up.
One item that I was trying to finish while I did that post was getting the wiring done to the front of the car(turn signals, parking lights, radiator fan, fog lights, head lights, retractable head light system, horn, powered mirrors, windscreen wipers,)
Well thats where I'm at right now.
Since the dash isn't wired yet I haven't tested any of it. I was thinking of making a jumper wire to the headlight switch to test the headlights but just thinking about it was as far as it got.

Next I'll focus on getting the wiring done for the power lift canopy, then the engine, and I think I'll leave the dash till the end.

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[islandman]

I like the use of the OEM grommet's through the body

[Peter]

Looks like a candidate for some of your excellent work making custom covers.

[Brett]

Should have the power lift system for the canopy done today.

Just have the pinch sensors to wire in and its done.

This is where I installed them.
Before I get any "I wouldn't have installed them there" reply's This is my reasoning for putting them where I did.

Granted having to climb over them may not be the ideal location which is why I put them higher up in the opening, and there are 2 different lengths of the sensor, this is the short version.

Another reason for installing them there is there needs to be an uninterrupted line to them, which means if they were install in the canopy I would have had to run 2 wires from the sensor through the canopy, down the lifting arms to the control module. That would have made my efforts of no wires coming out of the canopy a waste of time.

And yet another reason is if the canopy were some how activated while you were getting in or out, if the pinch sensor was in the canopy it would be hard to reach because you would have to turn around and look up to find it, in this position its in front of you easy to reach.

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Engine wiring is next.

[Brett]

Been multi tasking while trying to get the wiring done.

One small but important item was to make a seal for the steering column shaft as it exits the car to the rack and pinion.

I'm sure others have done this but this was my version of making a seal for the column.

Started with a plastic cup and cut it to form around the opening where the column exits the car.

Then I used that as a mould and made the fiberglass part.

That was then bonded in place and a leftover electrical grommet with the correct size opening for the column shaft to go through was used for the seal.

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