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Thread: Glasgowgoers new Golf Kart

  1. #41
    Senior Member bushboy's Avatar
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    One of the issues with Micks wrap copper pipe around the exhaust pipe was the dissimilar metal corrosion thingy, (Lauren will know the proper term for it). I have been having a little think about it & once the golf kart is on the road, or when I get to the engine bit, I will attempt to make & test an all Stainless Steel heat exchanger to heat water & then circulate with a pump. A little ways off yet.

    Bushboy
    "Always do what you are afraid to do"
    "I can accept failure, but I can't accept not trying"

  2. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by bushboy View Post
    One of the issues with Micks wrap copper pipe around the exhaust pipe was the dissimilar metal corrosion thingy, (Lauren will know the proper term for it). I have been having a little think about it & once the golf kart is on the road, or when I get to the engine bit, I will attempt to make & test an all Stainless Steel heat exchanger to heat water & then circulate with a pump. A little ways off yet.

    Bushboy
    Nice idea but making small coils in stainless tube

    Dirk

  3. #43
    Senior Member bushboy's Avatar
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    Dirk,

    I have no intention of making stainless steel spirals. There is more than 1 way to skin a cat, or heat water in this case

    Bushboy
    "Always do what you are afraid to do"
    "I can accept failure, but I can't accept not trying"

  4. #44
    ***Euro-Nova Supporter*** Spacenut's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by glasgowgolfer View Post
    Wow soz to hear that hope you where ok, unfortunately we tend to get a bit more of the wet stuff up here 😥
    It's OK, it was a long time ago

    Apart from some asymmetry in the front bodywork, you would never know it had a prang. Which of course it couldn't have, as the road it happened on doesn't exist any more
    only Pythagoras can save me now!

  5. #45
    ***Euro-Nova Supporter*** Spacenut's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bushboy View Post
    ...A nice solid frame head. Although I have not yet worked out what the additional fibreglass structure is meant to achieve (Suggestions on a post card)
    The additional fibreglass structure is a hollow tunnel connecting the front compartment to the front bulkhead, and was originally intended to take cold air from the bonnet nostrils (with the water separated out by the baffle extension at the back of the bonnet) through to fresh air vents on the dashboard. You have to drill through from both ends to access the tunnel.

    The Mk1 dashboard had a central plenum chamber in the middle which fed the centre Vauxhall Viva face vent and the two Ford Escort "cheese grater" demister vents. I always assumed that the fresh air duct would connect to this plenum (the heat exchangers connected to the same plenum through pipes coming in from each side sill) via some sort of diverter valve, allowing selection of hot or cold air, with demist or face controlled by the butterflies in each individual vent.

    Simple, and not very efficient either!

    Lauren
    only Pythagoras can save me now!

  6. #46
    Cheers Lauren
    Suppose you could use a webasto heater but @ the end of the day my daily journey is about 2 miles each way so I suppose it's not a deal breaker....I put a post on a VW site and lots of Beetle owners said the heat exchangers do an okdok job ...so I'm the sure it will be cool 😉

    Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

  7. #47
    Check these bad boys out 😁 look good on a Nova 😎

    https://cozzzz.com/products/2x-24-in...back-led-strip

    Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

  8. #48
    Senior Member bushboy's Avatar
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    Had some more shed time today so I continued on with the wiring. I wanted to find out why the dip main was not wired up & to get the pin out on the steering column connectors.
    Thought it best to pull the switch assemble from the column to better trace the wires. & found this


    One fried wire. This is an earth wire that activates the flip flop headlight wire. It also earths a metal plate in the switch that is then screwed to the metal column housing and earths the whole steering column. I suspect that when the previous owner was wiring it up he connected this straight to earth causing all the magic blue smoke to escape from the wire.




    All the way from one end to the other.

    It didn't do the terminal plug a lot of good either.






    This is a good example of why I decided to rewire the car from scratch. Mr Golfer may only have 2 miles to drive it when it is finished but he wants to know that it will all work every time.

    Not a hard fix.
    My next problem to solve is the wash function. This switch unit uses the old spare tire pressure windscreen water unit, that comprises of "water tap"&nbsp; operated by the wiper lever. I intend to replace it with a micro switch to run a washer pump.&nbsp; Bit more integrated than a separate switch.<br><br>More to follow when I get the ideas out of my head &amp; into the world.<br><br>Caddy
    Last edited by bushboy; 16-12-2018 at 08:46 PM.
    "Always do what you are afraid to do"
    "I can accept failure, but I can't accept not trying"

  9. #49
    Ouch, looks messy.

    There is a later beetle column switch set that is set up for an electric screenwash. It was on late 1303 and onwards, and the American market.

    I transferred one onto my GT beetle column to avoid adding switches.
    All the best,

    Jim

    Club Nova Member, SDBC Member, GRRC Member, Southern Classics



    Read more about latest Nova developments in Complete Kit Car

  10. #50
    Senior Member bushboy's Avatar
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    Thanks Jim,

    Quick search of fleabay did not turn any thing up. Will proceed with a micro switch, just need to order it.

    Had a little time tonight to map the CBS fuse board. More for my own understanding of how they have wired it. The wiper switch had me thinking for a while but have sussed it out. Not sure if it will be VW wired as I only need three wires (Power, Slow, Fast) and the switch has 4 spread over 5 contacts that are only joined in pairs??? The parking mechanism on the wiper motor is adjustable, so it can be fine tuned. Four wires needed for the motor, Earth, Park Power, Slow, Fast.

    The CBS board only has 2 relays on it (Horn & Fan) I will be adding another bank of relays for the head lights, parking lights heater? etc to take the current off the yet to be decided switches.

    Caddy
    "Always do what you are afraid to do"
    "I can accept failure, but I can't accept not trying"

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