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Thread: Canopy Lifting Arm build

  1. #31
    Senior Member Brett's Avatar
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    Just a quick update

    Got all the materials now.

    Right now I'm making the jig for the lifting arms. This will ensure that the bearing carriers at the end of the arms when welded on to the ends of the arms will be square to the arms and will not move during the welding process.

  2. #32
    Senior Member Brett's Avatar
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    Got the jig made so I figured I'd start to cut the arms to the proper length.

    Well that lasted for maybe 2 minutes.

    P8220001.jpg

    P8220002.jpg

    The cutters were brand new, never have been used.

    Got on the web and ordered some annular cutters(core cutter, broach cutter)

    They should cut stainless steel tubing with no issues.

  3. #33
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    ouch! monkey metal!

  4. #34
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    Ah, yes. Must make sure they say bi-metal.
    Thanks,

    Nic.
    http://s93.photobucket.com/albums/l61/quikniq/
    CCC Sterling # 416

  5. #35
    Senior Member Brett's Avatar
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    they were both bi metal and they were from two different manufacturers. I knew one tool wasn't going to do the job but I hadn't figured the teeth would break off of both of them with in minutes of them cutting

    As you can see in the pictures the cutter wasn't even getting hot before the teeth broke off. the cutter looks almost new, except for the missing teeth

    Another issue with them was they had some run out that caused them not to cut perfectly center.

    New cutters should be here Monday

  6. #36
    ***Euro-Nova Supporter*** BlueNova's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brett View Post
    .....

    Another issue with them was they had some run out that caused them not to cut perfectly center.

    ......
    Are you able to fix a thin pilot drill bit to the centre of the ones you're using Brett? If not, it might be worth getting ones which come with the pilot bit.

    Alistair

  7. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by BlueNova View Post
    Are you able to fix a thin pilot drill bit to the centre of the ones you're using Brett? If not, it might be worth getting ones which come with the pilot bit.

    Alistair
    Either that, or cut a circular jig to overlay where you wish to cut. The jig would then hold the cutter in place while you cut the hole.
    I've done this myself a few times where the hole cutter didn't have a central guide...
    While easier to cut, I found a plastic jig didn't work out for me during the instances I needed to do this, but I found wood when cutting holes in tiles, and wood or metal when cutting holes in metal worked fine for me
    Last edited by Gaisa; 24-08-2019 at 04:50 PM.

  8. #38
    ***Euro-Nova Supporter*** BlueNova's Avatar
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    Excellent tip Gaisa!
    Alistair

  9. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by BlueNova View Post
    Excellent tip Gaisa!
    Alistair
    Not sure if my description was clear, but I'm glad you like it
    I think the more accurate description would have been "guide plate" since the guide plate's hole would be locked in place and all you need to do is cut within the guide hole.
    I had plenty of practice doing this since some of the hole cutting tools in the building trade have poor center guides, if they have them at all.
    So far, the toughest material I've had to deal with, was a thick steel mesh reinforced cast concrete wall. Each six inch hole took at least day to cut...

  10. #40
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    or you could get the proper tool, you still need good hole saws

    https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/222637312061

    even more fun make your own

    https://rorty.net/no1-fixed-tube-notcher

    Dirk

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