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Thread: Canopy Lifting Arm build

  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brett View Post
    Channel has a different profile where as cutting square tubing looks like bent sheet metal (like the oem brackets look like)

    Attachment 3178 Attachment 3179

    Also trying to find any kind of steel here in metric sizes is real hard and then trying to get it in small quantities makes it even harder and then getting it in stainless steel makes it even harder yet, but I found a place to get it
    I am surprised at that we can get small amounts of pressed stainless Chanel with the correct profile here very easily
    https://www.metals4u.co.uk/stainless...m-x-3mm/p13448

    Dirk

  2. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brett View Post
    Top brackets semi done

    Attachment 3185

    looking good are you planning on squashing the tubes as per original (over here) or are you going to fish mouth them to the bushing holders?

    Dirk

  3. #13
    Senior Member Brett's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Phill View Post
    Nice work Brett - is stainless steel difficult to weld?

    Its a little more difficult than welding mild steel but easy enough to learn.
    With stainless you have to watch how much heat you apply more than you do with mild steel and making sure the material is clean.


    Quote Originally Posted by Dirk View Post
    looking good are you planning on squashing the tubes as per original (over here) or are you going to fish mouth them to the bushing holders?

    Dirk
    Tubes that came with the car are round and even though I have a press I don't have the dies to squash the tubes properly so I will stay with the round setup. I may increase the diameter of them from the stock setup

    A while back I determine that the bushing setup was a weak point in the design so I came up with ends that have bearings in them.

    P3180012.jpg
    P3180013.jpg
    P3180014.jpg

  4. #14
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    Watching this with great interest, as I bought stainless arms a long long time ago, and they were not fabricated square and need re-making.

    One thing that is very important is to have everything square as the raised distance apart has to be the same as the down distance apart (from rhs to lhs arm) otherwise everything binds...

    Unfortunately the Nova body / canopy is not the squarest platform to mount the hinges; the old bushes had enough play in to take up the 'slack' so to speak! Not ideal...

    I have been putting off the hinge rebuild for a long time, so will be glad to pick up hints and tips from your assembly.

    Looking good so far! `¬)

  5. #15
    I too have a set of non aligned stainless hinges I purchased off another unhappy customer of Ian's for my scooby Nova. They are so far out its laughable, but I also have a perfect set from him to so not quite sure what went wrong, I mean he must have had a jig right?

    I purchased them on the basis of not having to remake all the parts, just fix the bits that are misaligned.

    I like the idea of bearings for a nice smooth operation

  6. #16
    Senior Member Brett's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MartinB View Post
    Watching this with great interest, as I bought stainless arms a long long time ago, and they were not fabricated square and need re-making.

    One thing that is very important is to have everything square as the raised distance apart has to be the same as the down distance apart (from rhs to lhs arm) otherwise everything binds...

    Unfortunately the Nova body / canopy is not the squarest platform to mount the hinges; the old bushes had enough play in to take up the 'slack' so to speak! Not ideal...

    I have been putting off the hinge rebuild for a long time, so will be glad to pick up hints and tips from your assembly.

    Looking good so far! `¬)
    I built the set I'm using now and have had no issues.

    I made a jig for the arms so the ends get welded on straight.

    Been thinking of the best way to address the issue of the none symmetrical lines of the car and build something into the arms to fix the problem.

    Also the issue of the location of the gas strut. In the down position it pushes the front of the canopy up.

    P3180002.jpg

  7. #17
    Quote Originally Posted by Brett View Post

    Also the issue of the location of the gas strut. In the down position it pushes the front of the canopy up.
    On my set the pivot joint at the front is on a course threaded bolt that goes into the lifting arm. This allows you to adjust the angle of the canopy in relation to the back, helping alleviate the problem so the canopy sits flat.

    Not the best photo but you can just see the threaded section at the front


  8. #18
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    The bearings are a nice touch, the hinges that David is talking about made by Ian used oillite bushes ( a bronze metal impregnated with oil) an improvement over the plastic bushes, I used some to repair my door hinges, but its not a very nice metal to machine.

    Dirk

  9. #19
    Senior Member Brett's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dirk View Post
    The bearings are a nice touch, the hinges that David is talking about made by Ian used oillite bushes ( a bronze metal impregnated with oil) an improvement over the plastic bushes, I used some to repair my door hinges, but its not a very nice metal to machine.

    Dirk
    As I get closer to building the new lifting system I'm considering using this material instead of having to machine the ends to accept bearings.
    Are there any premature wear issues with this material??
    With the new system a higher load will be applied to one of the bearings than in the original setup. Maybe make that one a ball bearing and the rest bronze.

    What issues are there in machining this material to fit??

    Also I'm looking at the adjusting system at the one arm that David posted.

    The new gas struts that will be used have been ordered
    Last edited by Brett; 03-05-2019 at 12:42 PM.

  10. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brett View Post
    As I get closer to building the new lifting system I'm considering using this material instead of having to machine the ends to accept bearings.
    Are there any premature wear issues with this material??
    With the new system a higher load will be applied to one of the bearings than in the original setup. Maybe make that one a ball bearing and the rest bronze.

    What issues are there in machining this material to fit??
    I think there is far less load on the Nova canopy hinges than there is on the Avante door hinges and in terms of wear the bushes in my hinges are not showing any after a couple of years.

    It is a very soft metal when machining it in a lathe, and your tool tends to try and dig in if you try and make a heavy cut. You can buy pre made bushes in most common sizes though.

    Dirk

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