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Thread: Nova AKA806J

  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Triton23 View Post
    Thanks Steve, I may well take you up on the dash base if I canít find a better one. I was hoping someone out there would have a mould for this base and pods. When the body comes off Iím thinking of converting to lhd as I have lived in France for 15 years now. I could patch the floorpans but I would prefer to go with new and drop them myself. Once the bodyís off, itís much easier to get all the mechanicals and ensure a quality rebuild. Here is my 1966 formula vee Iíve just done.Attachment 3643
    Wow - nice. You obviously know your way around the VW Floorpan, and you appear to have some good facilities (garage workshop) over there; Good. Because your car building skills are about to be tested!

    The Nova is one of the toughest cars to get on the road, more difficult than a restoring a Mini or MkII Escort or E-type, etc.
    Why? Because with those cars there is a (plan) design to work to; e.g. where the Fuse Box is installed, where steering column bolts in, etc. With the Nova, you are the designer, you plan, research, choose the parts, get 'em bought and installed, if you make a mistake you roll-back, take the hit, and start again! That, plus going off-piste and getting souped-up parts to fit, is why Nova builds drag on for months and years.

    If you can complete a 'body-off' Nova rebuild in 2 years, that is a good achievement - Depends on the Spec of the car you are building of course.


    Hmm it seems like I have taken over the role as forum grinch, Peter.

  2. #12
    Quote Originally Posted by steve View Post
    Wow - nice. You obviously know your way around the VW Floorpan, and you appear to have some good facilities (garage workshop) over there; Good. Because your car building skills are about to be tested!

    The Nova is one of the toughest cars to get on the road, more difficult than a restoring a Mini or MkII Escort or E-type, etc.
    Why? Because with those cars there is a (plan) design to work to; e.g. where the Fuse Box is installed, where steering column bolts in, etc. With the Nova, you are the designer, you plan, research, choose the parts, get 'em bought and installed, if you make a mistake you roll-back, take the hit, and start again! That, plus going off-piste and getting souped-up parts to fit, is why Nova builds drag on for months and years.

    If you can complete a 'body-off' Nova rebuild in 2 years, that is a good achievement - Depends on the Spec of the car you are building of course.



    Hmm it seems like I have taken over the role as forum grinch, Peter.
    I checked out your photo.bucket its amazing your front end! In fact all your photos. Iíve done buggyís, long and short, I did a RSK 718 replica, a gt40 on a VX220 chassis, loads of race cars so I think lack of replacement panels is gonna be the toughest part

  3. #13
    Quote Originally Posted by steve View Post
    Wow - nice. You obviously know your way around the VW Floorpan, and you appear to have some good facilities (garage workshop) over there; Good. Because your car building skills are about to be tested!

    The Nova is one of the toughest cars to get on the road, more difficult than a restoring a Mini or MkII Escort or E-type, etc.
    Why? Because with those cars there is a (plan) design to work to; e.g. where the Fuse Box is installed, where steering column bolts in, etc. With the Nova, you are the designer, you plan, research, choose the parts, get 'em bought and installed, if you make a mistake you roll-back, take the hit, and start again! That, plus going off-piste and getting souped-up parts to fit, is why Nova builds drag on for months and years.

    If you can complete a 'body-off' Nova rebuild in 2 years, that is a good achievement - Depends on the Spec of the car you are building of course.


    Hmm it seems like I have taken over the role as forum grinch, Peter.
    Wot! Me, a grinch? Just pissed off, that's all. (and maybe a bit more 'worldly' than some)



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  4. #14
    ***Euro-Nova Supporter*** Spacenut's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Triton23 View Post
    Here is my 1966 formula vee Iíve just done.
    Hmm - how about a widened FV chassis under the Nova? Maybe a Vo-Po 914 engine, or even a 916 2 litre for a bit of poke!

    Or would it make it impossible to get through CT?

    Looking at your pictures I am pretty sure you have a Mk1 body, but the rear undertray looks like it might have been the simpler design that came with the Mk2 "big bumper" models. So it's just a guess, but you may have an Elam Mk1. Any identifying marks or chassis plates under that weird filled-in bonnet?
    only Pythagoras can save me now!

  5. #15
    Just to update, I decdied to check the engine out and see if she runs before I take the body off.
    So much fiddling with a mass of wires but the simple process of V dubs meant that she has now run for the first time in 8 years.
    Next weekend I think we will pop the body off and take a good look at the chassis.
    Iíve been toying with going with Red9design front and rear drive trains ( anyone had any experience fitting their products)
    I have also been in contact with a Belgian company who can make a mk 1 dash for 370 plus tax, so if anyone has a cheaper solution please let me know.
    Any tips on body removal? Do side skirts have to come off? Front valance removal? Tips?
    Thanks guys and gals

  6. #16
    ***Euro-Nova Supporter*** BlueNova's Avatar
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    Excellent news re the engine!

    Several folk on the Forum have used Red9 front and back so I'm sure they'll be able to chip in with their thoughts. I'm pretty sure the front Red9 set up is for lowered VW Bugs, so be sure to find out if Nova owners managed to use that or if they had a 'standard height' Red9 front set up made for them. I'm pretty sure some did, but I'm not sure what the price difference was (if any?). Best to speak to them directly, or to Red9 themselves.

    I managed to remove my body without taking the skirts or front valance off ... However, mine's a Mk2 and I'd already cut my front valance just in front of the front beam way back in the 80's (can't remember why!). I understand that the side skirts on the Mk2 were designed to sit just outside the floorpans, but the skirts on the Mk1 were not. I was lucky because my skirts, etc are all de-seamed to make the body continuous, but I see from photos of your Nova that you've still got the seams. I'm pretty sure you'll have to remove the skirts and front valance to enable the removal of the body. The body is light enough to be carried by a couple of folk, but in my case I rigged up a block & tackle to my garage roof and that made single handed removal really easy ... ie slow and controlled.

    Alistair

  7. #17
    Senior Member Phill's Avatar
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    To remove the body you do have to take of the front undertray as it wraps under the front of the floorpan. It should be possible to remove the body leaving the side pods in place however, the job is a lot easier if you also remove the roof section and the rear and side undertrays to reduce the weight. The steering column will need to be disconnected and pulled out and you will need to disconnect the fuel feed from the fuel tank and make sure there are no electrical cables running through the central tunnel as well as disconnecting the brake fluid reservoir feed to the the master cylinder. The body is held in place by a series of nuts and bolts along the perimeter of the floor pan along with two bolts into the frame head accessable from the front compartment. Finally there are two fibreglass mouldings that bolt onto rear shock absorber towers. Depending on your dashboard arrangement you will probably need to remove some screws where the centre console straddles the central tunnel though some builders may have fitted a steel framework to hold the steering column so check carefully under the dash to see what other fixings may be in place. And don't forget to disconnect the battery and earth lead
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  8. #18
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    Whatever route you go down for the front suspension, it should be adjustable;
    the right height for the Nova needs to be stock or higher than the standard VW.
    So you will need upward adjustment.

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